What did you do to your JK today?

Metalcloak 2.5 dual rate, rustys spare delete / license reloacter, tinted turn signals and JL hood latches installed. The tinted parking lights have yet to arrive.
Overall the installation went pretty good, I personally thought MC instructions sucked, lots of crap I didn't need and lacking a lot of stuff I did. Haven't drove it much, haveView attachment 123915View attachment 123916 to get it aligned next week.

I've seen the JL hood latches on a couple UTube channels.
Thinking of doing that on my Jeep. As mine are pretty faded.
Is it a PITA install or pretty straight forward.
Nice looking Jeep
 
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I replaced the original 14mm track bar bolts with 9/16" bolts. She rides much smoother and tighter now, no more death wobble. It's amazing the difference between ten thousands of an inch. Once I got that working nice, I installed a new steering stabilizer.

I also replaced my broken clockspring. The cheap one I got from Amazon apparently didn't have the steering position sensor unit in it but looking at the plastic housing, it had all the screw holes and clips for that circuit board. So as an experiment, I removed the circuit board from my original clockpsring and installed it in the cheap unit and it fits perfectly. The only thing I didn't know is what angle to install the little gear wheel so I just guessed it. That wheel is what I believe the vehicle uses to get the precise steering wheel angle. As expected, all my warning lights and codes went away except for the traction control light. The computer is picking up my steering wheel as going outside it's normal boundaries. I'm gonna see if Jscan can output the steering wheel angle to help me center that little gear wheel. Otherwise, I'll just have to move it one tooth at a time until the light goes away.
Glad you figured out . The 9/16 do the trick.
Whenever you get around to doing control arms
good time to replace with 9/16, shouldered grade 8
all around .

I replaced TB, drag liink & tie rod at the same time.
When underneath with someone turning steering ,
wheels on the ground , engine running. With hand on
drag link could def feel a bit of a clunk . So my TB bushings
and drag link end was worn .
Couldn't feel any lossesness or clunk on the Tie Rod but the
plan was to replace anyways .
 
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Got my Jeep dirty today . A dirty Jeep is a happy Jeep!
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‘Not well’ is the best answer.
Following my attempt to repair the issue by replacing the wiper relay, it still didn’t work AND the reverse lights began their nonsense (stayed on 100% of the time regardless of ignition or gear shift position.

I sent it out for repair and they were not able to fix it. Following their efforts, it still had communication issues w/ the door circuit, reverse lamps, wipers, etc.
I ended up buying a rebuilt TIPM unit that is supposed to arrive tomorrow.

At least the unit I purchased has a lifetime warranty, unlike the repair which was only 1 year.

I wasn’t planning to spent $695, but what the hell… I was tired of things not working & I’m already so far upside down on this JKU that I’ll never be able to sell it and look at my bank account with a clear conscience anyway.
 
‘Not well’ is the best answer.
Following my attempt to repair the issue by replacing the wiper relay, it still didn’t work AND the reverse lights began their nonsense (stayed on 100% of the time regardless of ignition or gear shift position.

I sent it out for repair and they were not able to fix it. Following their efforts, it still had communication issues w/ the door circuit, reverse lamps, wipers, etc.
I ended up buying a rebuilt TIPM unit that is supposed to arrive tomorrow.

At least the unit I purchased has a lifetime warranty, unlike the repair which was only 1 year.

I wasn’t planning to spent $695, but what the hell… I was tired of things not working & I’m already so far upside down on this JKU that I’ll never be able to sell it and look at my bank account with a clear conscience anyway.
Are you installing a MAKS?
 
‘Not well’ is the best answer.
Following my attempt to repair the issue by replacing the wiper relay, it still didn’t work AND the reverse lights began their nonsense (stayed on 100% of the time regardless of ignition or gear shift position.

I sent it out for repair and they were not able to fix it. Following their efforts, it still had communication issues w/ the door circuit, reverse lamps, wipers, etc.
I ended up buying a rebuilt TIPM unit that is supposed to arrive tomorrow.

At least the unit I purchased has a lifetime warranty, unlike the repair which was only 1 year.

I wasn’t planning to spent $695, but what the hell… I was tired of things not working & I’m already so far upside down on this JKU that I’ll never be able to sell it and look at my bank account with a clear conscience anyway.
Well that blows things aren't working out well
with your Jeep. We all feel your pain brother.
Cause if I recall you had to replace heads a few
months ago .
May I ask what year is your Jeep?
 
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Glad you figured out . The 9/16 do the trick.
Whenever you get around to doing control arms
good time to replace with 9/16, shouldered grade 8
all around .

I replaced TB, drag liink & tie rod at the same time.
When underneath with someone turning steering ,
wheels on the ground , engine running. With hand on
drag link could def feel a bit of a clunk . So my TB bushings
and drag link end was worn .
Couldn't feel any lossesness or clunk on the Tie Rod but the
plan was to replace anyways .
Yup she's good now.

I also corrected the angle on my steering wheel position sensor.
PXL_20230226_183020351 (1).jpg


It involved reading how far off it was on Jscan (-1080 degrees for me), then counting the teeth on both gears on some photos I took of them and doing some gear ratio/ gear tooth per degree calculations. The steering angle reads as it should on JScan now. I don't expect many people will ever go through the trouble of installing their own steering column module but if you do, here's the math that I used.
math.jpg

I now have no more codes, no wobbles and all my features work again like cruise control. I guess it's time to break some more stuff.
 
Yup she's good now.

I also corrected the angle on my steering wheel position sensor.
View attachment 123996

It involved reading how far off it was on Jscan (-1080 degrees for me), then counting the teeth on both gears on some photos I took of them and doing some gear ratio/ gear tooth per degree calculations. The steering angle reads as it should on JScan now. I don't expect many people will ever go through the trouble of installing their own steering column module but if you do, here's the math that I used.
View attachment 123997
I now have no more codes, no wobbles and all my features work again like cruise control. I guess it's time to break some more stuff.
🥃 To you for figuring it out. That much math is above me (I hate math).
 
I've seen the JL hood latches on a couple UTube channels.
Thinking of doing that on my Jeep. As mine are pretty faded.
Is it a PITA install or pretty straight forward.
Nice looking Jeep
Sorry I took so long to answer.
It is a very simple install. The only issue is that the JL latches have 2 tabs that do not align with the JK hood. You can either 1) enlarge the holes in your hood so everything mounts up or 2) cut off these tabs.
I choose to cut off the tabs as the latches are pretty cheap. I have put about 100 miles on the Jeep since installing and have 0 complaints.
would do this again
 
Sorry I took so long to answer.
It is a very simple install. The only issue is that the JL latches have 2 tabs that do not align with the JK hood. You can either 1) enlarge the holes in your hood so everything mounts up or 2) cut off these tabs.
I choose to cut off the tabs as the latches are pretty cheap. I have put about 100 miles on the Jeep since installing and have 0 complaints.
would do this again

No worries. We all have lives
outside of the forum .
Well sort of .haha
Thanks for the intel
Appreciate it😊
 
2015 JKU Rubicon

Well 15 is what I was kinda zeroing in on.
As the 12-14 has head casting ssues. But I also
read that issue goes beyond the 14's.
Did a ton of research into the 3.6 a couple
months ago. Feb, 2019, Produced its 10
millionth 3.6.
It's used in many vehicles.
If production keeps going like it is could be
considered one of Dodges most sudcessful
engines by volume.
Probablem is even if they have 1 percent
failure rate. That's still a lot of break downs.
 
Sorry I took so long to answer.
It is a very simple install. The only issue is that the JL latches have 2 tabs that do not align with the JK hood. You can either 1) enlarge the holes in your hood so everything mounts up or 2) cut off these tabs.
I choose to cut off the tabs as the latches are pretty cheap. I have put about 100 miles on the Jeep since installing and have 0 complaints.
would do this again

Yup, ran into this two days ago. Sales ad: they fit! Reality? Sure do with an angle grinder. Zing, off with their tabs. lol
 
I aligned the front end today. It was toe out somehow, now its ever so slightly toe in. The tie rod adjuster was seized so I had to take the whole unit off the vehicle, put it in a vice and pipe wrench it loose. Then when I centered my steering wheel, the traction control light came on so I had to reset that. I figure the steering wheel was off center for so long that the computer set that as the 0 position. I think I'll be changing the transmission/transfer case fluids and differential lube next. Also, how hard is it to change the front axle universal joints?
 
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I aligned the front end today. It was toe out somehow, now its ever so slightly toe in. The tie rod adjuster was seized so I had to take the whole unit off the vehicle, put it in a vice and pipe wrench it loose. Then when I centered my steering wheel, the traction control light came on so I had to reset that. I figure the steering wheel was off center for so long that the computer set that as the 0 position. I think I'll be changing the transmission/transfer case fluids and differential lube next. Also, how hard is it to change the front axle universal joints?

I’ll be doing my front hub / bearing next week.
To replace axle universal joints you have to remove everything including hubs .
You will have to remove axles as well. Here is a link showing how to


Since you have hubs off would be a good idea to replace if haven’t been done in a long time