What did you do to your JK today?

Danarch said:
Did a a few things;

1. Installed door handles
2. Hooked up power for the winch.
3. Fixed the rats nest at the door harness from the PO who tapped into it. (See other posts)
4. Installed new RR WSS (no picture).

View attachment 119769View attachment 119770
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I have a set of grabars, too. I've seen many styles, but this style is my favorite.

Which switch are you using? I have a cutoff switch I was going to install that I was going to use for a different project. It's a Blue Sea model 3000. Not sure if I want to use that one, though or save it. Rating wise, it should be fine.
 
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Danarch said:
Call me stupid, but how in the world did you mount the disconnect box to the fire wall? The nuts are designed to go into bottom of the box to screw then bolts into (which area extra long). Given this this base doesn’t attach to the switch? Wire is routed.

Update - came up with a different solution and mounted the disconnect to the side adjacent to the battery. There is a picture in another post. Worked out well.

Wondering if either of you have an issue with the wire staying plugged into the control? The wire just seems to fall out the end of the control even though it seems plugged in all the way. Other than that winch seems to work great.
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Glad it worked out for ya! I don't have an issue. Are you using the wireless remote?
 
Anybodyhome said:
Getting new tires put on this morning and the drag link is completely seized. Had 2 guys and a breaker bar and could not bust it loose. This is going to add a few hundred to the tires and alignment.....
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I just discovered this myself and trying to come up with solution on my 2008. Do both ends need to be adjustable or just the clamped side and not the crimped side?
 
JeepJeezy said:
Glad it worked out for ya! I don't have an issue. Are you using the wireless remote?
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Yes it is a wireless remote. The wire plugs into the bottom but is really lose and basically falls out if you want to use the wired connection in lieu of wired.
 
JerryD said:
I have a set of grabars, too. I've seen many styles, but this style is my favorite.

Which switch are you using? I have a cutoff switch I was going to install that I was going to use for a different project. It's a Blue Sea model 3000. Not sure if I want to use that one, though or save it. Rating wise, it should be fine.
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Used the switch that came with the winch. Figured out a place to mount that seems like it well work well. Thank you.
 
Today I got my hard top hoist set up! Then I realized that the soft top that I bought didn’t have the roll bar brackets with it, so I should be able to get the soft top on my Jeep after the brackets arrive on Monday. I’ll probably run the soft top for 6 weeks or so. Mostly took the hard top off this late in the season because I get to drive some of the home coming court onto the field next week at my daughter’s high school home coming game.

70AE645F-60BA-471F-B210-0FB02FC3076F.jpeg
 
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I gave up.


Since I purchased it used, the AEV tire carrier has been a mother to open & close no matter how much I grease and/or adjust. Bought a spindle bearing kit 8-9 months ago and finally set time aside to do it. Removed hi-lift mount, two lights, GMRS antenna, license plate, spare, 3rd brake light, & re-routed wiring. Had to cut off one bolt holding the turnbuckle. OK, a little work, but that's okay. Do you think I could get that no good, mother pus bucket, #$&@% carrier out of the bumper?

I give up. Taking it to a local shop that does these installs.
 
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DJCLT said:
I just discovered this myself and trying to come up with solution on my 2008. Do both ends need to be adjustable or just the clamped side and not the crimped side?
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Not quite sure what you're asking.
The splined or adjustable end is the driver side. The threads on the stock drag link are fairly fine and can get easily rusted over time.
That being said, here's what the shop did for me:
  1. Mounted 4 new BFG TA KO2 (35x12.5x18)
  2. Removed drag link
  3. Removed and replaced all bushings
  4. Lubricated
  5. Installed new drag link
  6. Centered front axle/steering
  7. Aligned
The tires alone ran me around $1650.00. The new drag link and other front end work was another $340. (The shop owner is also a vet and owns a JKU and a JL, and he let me work with his guys while the work was getting done. I learned a lot about front ends Friday afternoon.
 
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Anybodyhome said:
Not quite sure what you're asking.
The splined or adjustable end is the driver side. The threads on the stock drag link are fairly fine and can get easily rusted over time.
That being said, here's what the shop did for me:
  1. Mounted 4 new BFG TA KO2 (35x12.5x18)
  2. Removed drag link
  3. Removed and replaced all bushings
  4. Lubricated
  5. Installed new drag link
  6. Centered front axle/steering
  7. Aligned
The tires alone ran me around $1650.00. The new drag link and other front end work was another $340. (The shop owner is also a vet and owns a JKU and a JL, and he let me work with his guys while the work was getting done. I learned a lot about front ends Friday afternoon.
Click to expand...

$340 doesn't sound bad at all for the all of that.
 
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Anybodyhome said:
Not quite sure what you're asking.
The splined or adjustable end is the driver side. The threads on the stock drag link are fairly fine and can get easily rusted over time.
That being said, here's what the shop did for me:
  1. Mounted 4 new BFG TA KO2 (35x12.5x18)
  2. Removed drag link
  3. Removed and replaced all bushings
  4. Lubricated
  5. Installed new drag link
  6. Centered front axle/steering
  7. Aligned
The tires alone ran me around $1650.00. The new drag link and other front end work was another $340. (The shop owner is also a vet and owns a JKU and a JL, and he let me work with his guys while the work was getting done. I learned a lot about front ends Friday afternoon.
Click to expand...
I was qouted 750 for align and drag link replaced
 
Thats the one I was looking at. Will the spot with no markings work for the remote start?
 
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