What did you do to your JK today?

Speartip said:
Worn out bushings, front & rear can most def effect handling .
Is it difficult to remove the old ones and press in new ones ?
Click to expand...
Actually removing the old bushings and pressing in the new is not to difficult. Drill the rubber, score the sleeve with a saw and chisel out the sleeve. Not a delicate process. I used a Harbor Freight ball joint press to push in the new bushings, no issue but getting the stack up right and aligned.

The harder part for me was getting the control arms in/out of the jeep. I have skids on the control arm mounts and most are not exactly squared up any more. Few curse words, a bit of grinding and a BFH, solutions abound. :p
 
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FishFam JKU said:
Actually removing the old bushings and pressing in the new is not to difficult. Drill the rubber, score the sleeve with a saw and chisel out the sleeve. Not a delicate process. I used a Harbor Freight ball joint press to push in the new bushings, no issue but getting the stack up right and aligned.

The harder part for me was getting the control arms in/out of the jeep. I have skids on the control arm mounts and most are not exactly squared up any more. Few curse words, a bit of grinding and a BFH, solutions abound. :p
Click to expand...

If you throw the new bushings in the freezer they will shrink a little and make them easier to go in also.
 
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Dropped it off at the dealer to have them inspect/assess the excessive valve train noise.
Got a VM from them late this afternoon that the cost for tear down would be just over $1,500; but it would be applied to the cost of the repair.

I sure as hell can't justify NOT fixing it...
There goes my Q3 bonus.

Oh well.
I justify it like this:
If we had paid $3000 (or more) for one with lower mileage, the valve train could STILL have failed.
At least this way, we know that the work will be done and the issue will get resolved.
 
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FishFam JKU said:
Actually removing the old bushings and pressing in the new is not to difficult. Drill the rubber, score the sleeve with a saw and chisel out the sleeve. Not a delicate process. I used a Harbor Freight ball joint press to push in the new bushings, no issue but getting the stack up right and aligned.

The harder part for me was getting the control arms in/out of the jeep. I have skids on the control arm mounts and most are not exactly squared up any more. Few curse words, a bit of grinding and a BFH, solutions abound. :p
Click to expand...
Ok, so a bit of a process . Guess they have to be in tight so bushing doesn’t rotate in the control arm
 
WestCoastDan said:
Dropped it off at the dealer to have them inspect/assess the excessive valve train noise.
Got a VM from them late this afternoon that the cost for tear down would be just over $1,500; but it would be applied to the cost of the repair.

I sure as hell can't justify NOT fixing it...
There goes my Q3 bonus.

Oh well.
I justify it like this:
If we had paid $3000 (or more) for one with lower mileage, the valve train could STILL have failed.
At least this way, we know that the work will be done and the issue will get resolved.
Click to expand...
Were they able to tell you what the noise is? Or is reason for tear down to figure out exactly what is wrong ?
Well , hopefully not crazy expensive or in the shop for weeks . Keep us updated if you wouldn’t mind .
 
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Qaddiction said:
Yours are more exciting. At least they are actually installed! I'm just in the collector/dreamer stage...lol
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The collector / dream stage is pretty cool though . As with each component you purchase your one step closer to getting it done .
Your obviously very experienced building /working on Jeep’s .
Can I ask what track bar are you going with ?
 
Speartip said:
Were they able to tell you what the noise is? Or is reason for tear down to figure out exactly what is wrong ?
Well , hopefully not crazy expensive or in the shop for weeks . Keep us updated if you wouldn’t mind .
Click to expand...
I should know more today. They were unable to determine how bad it is, or the extent of any damage, without tearing it apart first.
I'm hopeful that it isn't going to need new cams and/or heads, but you never know.
 
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Anybodyhome said:
I hope you ordered a Jeep-compatible speaker.

You'll notice the soundbar and front speakers have these 3 external tabs on them that bolt to a bracket inside the speaker enclosure:
View attachment 119830

Most car audio speakers don't have these three tabs, instead the mounting screws on the speaker are through a hole on the rim or frame of the speaker itself, such as the Rockford Fosgate Punch P1650s I installed in my JK:

View attachment 119832



If you ordered an aftermarket speaker not specifically manufactured for a Jeep, like the Rockford Fosgates I put in mine, you'll need to order a pair of SCOSCHE SAC656 speaker adapters:
View attachment 119831

If you ordered Kicker upgrades that are Jeep compatible, no worries. If you ordered something else and find out they might not work, let me know and I can walk you thru my install.
Click to expand...
I ordered Kicker CSC67 6.75" as well as the adapters but I can't seem to figure out how to secure the speaker to the adapter. It won't attach flush in the enclosure. Any tips?
 
smbakke77 said:
I ordered Kicker CSC67 6.75" as well as the adapters but I can't seem to figure out how to secure the speaker to the adapter. It won't attach flush in the enclosure. Any tips?
Click to expand...
The adapter mounts to the soundbar, the speaker mounts to the adapter.
That being said, when you remove the original speakers, you need to keep the threaded U-clips (speed clips) if the speaker has none with them.
The SCOSCHE adapters need to be trimmed once you figure out which of the tabs/holes align with your speakers.
The speakers will ultimately not fit flush inside the soundbar because the adapter will extend it down from the soundbar.

1660584370981.png


So, the 3 tabs on the adapter will mount to these u-clips or speed clips.

Then, trim off the 4 lobes from the outer edge of the ring if you're not using those for the speaker mounting holes. There are scored lines that you can simply run a blade along and then snap them off with pliers.

1660584537320.png


Let me know what's going on and I'll try to elaborate further.
 
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Anybodyhome said:
The adapter mounts to the soundbar, the speaker mounts to the adapter.
That being said, when you remove the original speakers, you need to keep the threaded U-clips (speed clips) if the speaker has none with them.
The SCOSCHE adapters need to be trimmed once you figure out which of the tabs/holes align with your speakers.
The speakers will ultimately not fit flush inside the soundbar because the adapter will extend it down from the soundbar.

View attachment 121848

So, the 3 tabs on the adapter will mount to these u-clips or speed clips.

Then, trim off the 4 lobes from the outer edge of the ring if you're not using those for the speaker mounting holes. There are scored lines that you can simply run a blade along and then snap them off with pliers.

View attachment 121849

Let me know what's going on and I'll try to elaborate further.
Click to expand...
I have the tweeters in my enclosure as well so my setup doesn't look like this. I'll double check to see if those clips are in the enclosure. Also my adapters have lobes on the inner edge that I'm guessing will need to be trimmed and then the speaker will fit better. I'll give it a go and come back with any issues. Thank you for the assistance!
 
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smbakke77 said:
I have the tweeters in my enclosure as well so my setup doesn't look like this. I'll double check to see if those clips are in the enclosure. Also my adapters have lobes on the inner edge that I'm guessing will need to be trimmed and then the speaker will fit better. I'll give it a go and come back with any issues. Thank you for the assistance!
Click to expand...
I have tweeters in the soundbar, but they are separate from theses speakers. And, yes, the inner lobes will have to be removed as well.
What year Jeep are you working on?
 
Anybodyhome said:
I have tweeters in the soundbar, but they are separate from theses speakers. And, yes, the inner lobes will have to be removed as well.
What year Jeep are you working on?
Click to expand...
2018 JKU. Yes, my tweeters are separate as well. I actually found a video that helped me. Different set up on the sound bar but same speakers and adapters as what I have: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fbuLXd1BWy0

Turns out I didn't have any hardware to bolt the speakers to the adapters. Nothing loose in my toolbox would fit, so off to the hardware store to grab 8 nuts, bolts and washers to attach the speakers to the adapters and I should be good.
 
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Added a pioneer a/v headunit and 2 of the 77kick10 upgrades in the soundbar. Will replace the front this weekend along with the recommended polyfill. Might pull the tweeters too. Depending on what info I can find on here. Really cool place you guys have here.
 
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Put this bad boy on my son’s Jeep. Took a lot longer then I had anticipated but took a whlie to get the holes lined up with the winch that will be installed on it, to get the front plate centered to the rest of the assembly. Not done yet but made good progress today, even though was 105+ out today.

Story is, my dad worked for Southern Pacific and he it made in the welding shop back in 1987 when I bought my YJ. It was on it for about 10 years and has been siting out in the yard for about 18 years now. The boy cleaned it all up, got the rust removed etc. It seemed easier to install on the JY, it basically sat on the front steel bumper then mounted to the frame.

17AD9B39-7BA8-4CC0-89E2-814289AA6E54.jpeg
35995170-8602-4281-8E51-E6EE00A0AA3A.jpeg
 
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