What did you do to your JK today?

Noticed that one of my rear window covers was missing this morning. I installed the new roof rack a few days ago. Not sure if it came off going down the road, or when opening the glass? The directions were crap so didn't know weather the bracket mounted behind or in front of the hinge. I mounted in front as to not mess with the factory glass hinge location. I'm thinking it's causing interface though. Anyways, the cover is nowhere to be found grrr.

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Was wondering how the rear of rack was attached . So attaches rear glass hinge .
lots of sources available for hinge covers
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Noticed that one of my rear window covers was missing this morning. I installed the new roof rack a few days ago. Not sure if it came off going down the road, or when opening the glass? The directions were crap so didn't know weather the bracket mounted behind or in front of the hinge. I mounted in front as to not mess with the factory glass hinge location. I'm thinking it's causing interface though. Anyways, the cover is nowhere to be found grrr.
If you mounted it behind, you'd mess up the alignment and seal of the liftback.

When you added the bracket, you increased the thickness behind the cover. Opening the liftback caused the cover to contact the metal and work loose. I know this, because the same thing happened when I installed hinge-mounted lights on Mrs. Dogs JKUR. My solution was to touch the top edge of the new cover to a belt grinder and clearance it a bit. Didn't take much. Problem solved.
 
I took it for a drive with the stabilizer off and it's a damn scary ride! The slightest bump and I could shake cans of paint with it. I put it back on and it's much better but not perfect.
Keep in mind that if your front end is functioning properly, you do not need a stabilizer at all. A stabilizer hides problems; it fixes nothing.

What you've written here tells me your front end needs a rebuild, and the steering stabilizer prevented you from knowing it sooner. Which means it allowed the wear/damage to worsen, and quite possibly spread to additional parts.
 
Mmmmm if the front end is set up properly and no loose ends there should be no problems even with stabalizer off.
I have a feeling you have a worn out component some where .
Track Bar Bushing
Tie Rod or Drag Link end
Bearing/Hub
Ball Joints
Control arm bushing
If your still running stock control arms/ track bar and hardware .
Jeep uses fully threaded bolts on control arms and track bars . Over time those threads act like a file and oval out bushings . That can be enough to cause DW.
When I replaced my track bar it was totally evident the damage to bushings caused by fully threaded bolts
Replaced with 9/16 grade 8
shouldered bolts .
I lifted the front end off the ground and hauled on everything I could with a pry bar. Nothing is evidently loose besides that universal joint. I need a buddy to come over to mess with the steering as I watch what happens. Is it better to check this stuff with the wheels right off the ground; or should I leave some weight on the suspension?
 
If you mounted it behind, you'd mess up the alignment and seal of the liftback.

When you added the bracket, you increased the thickness behind the cover. Opening the liftback caused the cover to contact the metal and work loose. I know this, because the same thing happened when I installed hinge-mounted lights on Mrs. Dogs JKUR. My solution was to touch the top edge of the new cover to a belt grinder and clearance it a bit. Didn't take much. Problem solved.
Great advice! I'll be sure to shave the the new covers once I get them.
 
I lifted the front end off the ground and hauled on everything I could with a pry bar. Nothing is evidently loose besides that universal joint. I need a buddy to come over to mess with the steering as I watch what happens. Is it better to check this stuff with the wheels right off the ground; or should I leave some weight on the suspension?


Wheels off the ground, you want to be able to try and move everything. Don't forget to check for steering wheel slop.
 
Metalcloak 2.5 dual rate, rustys spare delete / license reloacter, tinted turn signals and JL hood latches installed. The tinted parking lights have yet to arrive.
Overall the installation went pretty good, I personally thought MC instructions sucked, lots of crap I didn't need and lacking a lot of stuff I did. Haven't drove it much, have
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to get it aligned next week.
 
Metalcloak 2.5 dual rate, rustys spare delete / license reloacter, tinted turn signals and JL hood latches installed. The tinted parking lights have yet to arrive.
Overall the installation went pretty good, I personally thought MC instructions sucked, lots of crap I didn't need and lacking a lot of stuff I did. Haven't drove it much, haveView attachment 123915View attachment 123916 to get it aligned next week.
Looks good! Looks like the same press I have 😁
 
Keep in mind that if your front end is functioning properly, you do not need a stabilizer at all. A stabilizer hides problems; it fixes nothing.

What you've written here tells me your front end needs a rebuild, and the steering stabilizer prevented you from knowing it sooner. Which means it allowed the wear/damage to worsen, and quite possibly spread to additional parts.
I took my track bar right off and the holes on the axle and frame sides definitely have some wiggle room. One of the bushing inserts has thread tooth marks all the way through. I'll replace them with shouldered ones the next size up. Who's big idea was it to use hard grade bolts with full threads on mild steel frame components anyway?

I clamped a pipe wrench to the axle tube to see if I could get it to rock on it's control arms but it's solid as can be and I ended up giving the underside of my Jeep a sucker punch. The Jeep won.

The drag link and tie rod has adjustments on them, if they're not completely seized I'll proceed to doing an alignment. I assume that heating those parts with a torch is not recommended eh?

One of these days I would like to swap my axles with the heavy duty ones anyway. I'd like to have locking differentials and all that fun stuff.
 
I replaced the original 14mm track bar bolts with 9/16" bolts. She rides much smoother and tighter now, no more death wobble. It's amazing the difference between ten thousands of an inch. Once I got that working nice, I installed a new steering stabilizer.

I also replaced my broken clockspring. The cheap one I got from Amazon apparently didn't have the steering position sensor unit in it but looking at the plastic housing, it had all the screw holes and clips for that circuit board. So as an experiment, I removed the circuit board from my original clockpsring and installed it in the cheap unit and it fits perfectly. The only thing I didn't know is what angle to install the little gear wheel so I just guessed it. That wheel is what I believe the vehicle uses to get the precise steering wheel angle. As expected, all my warning lights and codes went away except for the traction control light. The computer is picking up my steering wheel as going outside it's normal boundaries. I'm gonna see if Jscan can output the steering wheel angle to help me center that little gear wheel. Otherwise, I'll just have to move it one tooth at a time until the light goes away.
 
Mrs. Dog names our vehicles. She calls her JKUR Jeepers. My Corvette is Loki because, according to her, whenever I drive it I get into mischief. My JKUR is Thor.

I tried to convince her to start calling hers Frigg. That would be in keeping with the Norse basis for the other names, and as the wife of Odin and Queen of the Gods, she is generally considered the strongest and most important of the Goddesses. But also because I could then call it the Friggen Jeep.

She told me to go away.
 
Mrs. Dog names our vehicles. She calls her JKUR Jeepers. My Corvette is Loki because, according to her, whenever I drive it I get into mischief. My JKUR is Thor.

I tried to convince her to start calling hers Frigg. That would be in keeping with the Norse basis for the other names, and as the wife of Odin and Queen of the Gods, she is generally considered the strongest and most important of the Goddesses. But also because I could then call it the Friggen Jeep.

She told me to go away.
Finally after 2 years named my Jeep, the name is Zillah
 
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Mrs. Dog names our vehicles. She calls her JKUR Jeepers. My Corvette is Loki because, according to her, whenever I drive it I get into mischief. My JKUR is Thor.

I tried to convince her to start calling hers Frigg. That would be in keeping with the Norse basis for the other names, and as the wife of Odin and Queen of the Gods, she is generally considered the strongest and most important of the Goddesses. But also because I could then call it the Friggen Jeep.

She told me to go away.
My wife won't even get in my corvette anymore. She doesn't have a name for it, just alot of 4 letter words when I "get on" it lol
 
I Noticed this hardtop gasket was missing on the passenger side last night. Is this something I will need to get from a dealership?

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It's a 2007 C6. No engine mods except for the CAI and Borla. Plenty powerful enough if you know what I mean lol
There's no such thing as powerful enough...
Heads/Cam/Blower LS3 in an M6 C5. Made 841HP. New engine is being assembled. Looking for 900 on pump gas, 1000+ on race gas. It's also getting a new roll bar, new seat pads and leather. Planning on a coilover conversion winter 2023.
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