What did you do to your JK today?

Installed the Rugged Ridge grill insert:

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Spent last night and today repairing the big scratch from a snow trip earlier this year. Didn’t turn out as well as I wanted. Maybe after it sets a little bit it will look better. I may get a buffer and buff it out after it sits for a couple of days. First time trying this. I ordered the paint from Roberts Paint Care, shipped in decent time and great kit. Had two primers, the paint, clear coat, blending agent, epoxy based bondo, tool to spread it, two types of sandpaper and tape and masking plastic. I think if I would have taken more time it would have turned out better, but I am very task oriented so also wanted to get it completed today.
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@Danarch, I think it looks pretty good for a home spot repair. I've always understood that you can't really color match and blend without painting the entire panel. I'd for sure give it a couple days and then buff it before judging.
Thank you for the encouragement and advice. I probably will buff it in the near future. Right now in person it has a spotted / splotchy look. Of course I am sure it still wet and curing etc. Either way looks better than the scratches and won’t rust. It won’t be the last dent / scratch.
 
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@Danarch, It doesn't look bad at all for a home job. Definitely wait 30 days before you buff it though! The clear needs time to cure/harden. You can speed up that process with one of those ol school clamp lamps with a spot halogen bulb that clamps onto almost anything and when you bumped the tin shade you got burnt lol. Clamp it onto something and keep it like 8-10in. away from the paint. Let it sit there for a good 45 mins. The paint should be hot buuut not enough that you cannot keep your hand on it. That will cure the clear so you can buff it. Buff it once everything cools off.
 
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@Danarch, It doesn't look bad at all for a home job. Definitely wait 30 days before you buff it though! The clear needs time to cure/harden. You can speed up that process with one of those ol school clamp lamps with a spot halogen bulb that clamps onto almost anything and when you bumped the tin shade you got burnt lol. Clamp it onto something and keep it like 8-10in. away from the paint. Let it sit there for a good 45 mins. The paint should be hot buuut not enough that you cannot keep your hand on it. That will cure the clear so you can buff it. Buff it once everything cools off.
Thank you for wisdom. I’ll be letting it sit for a while before I buff it or do anything else to it. I remember those lamps, I think you’d be able to fry an egg on it. Thanks for the kind words too, I think it’s starting to look a little better, but it certainly could look better.
 
Reattached the rear window defroster and it works, fixed the horn, that was easy one of the wires came off, and fixed the center console gear shift lightbulb so the PRND lights up in the wife’s JK.

Looked at the steering gear box to adjust the screw, but that area is tight. Hardly can get a wrench in there, much less turn it. Looked a little rusted so spayed some penetrating oil on it and will let that work and see if it gets a little easier. If not will use an extension and socket to loosen it. Then a wrench to tighten up the nut while holding the screw.
 
Excellent.
Like yourself and so many others, the rear window defrost wire came off of our ‘15 as well.
Not sure how you fixed yours, but I was able to remove the snap/button from the connector, grip it from the face with a pair of forceps, then heat it to almost red hot w/ a MAP torch.
The forceps allowed me to place the heated snap/button right back onto the original solder location.
I don’t recall if I added any solder to the equation, but probably not.
I was skeptical of trying to solder it w/ my iron, and didn’t trust the epoxy kits.

Completing a handful of small projects usually makes me feel better than finishing a single, large project.
 
I cleaned up the the “button” and glass with some paste. Then I added some solder to the button and held it in place and heated the button up to melt the solder again. It was was pain in the butt as the solder would come out, run down the side and then stick on the side of the button and the clip wouldn’t fit. So I’d try and clean up the solder, which in turn ended making the button come back off. Finally managed to get it to stick. Checked the voltage and continuity of the system prior to reattaching.

Getting the TC shifter knob off is a pain, have had to do it twice in two different JK’s.
 
No joke on the TC knob.
I had to replace that console light as well, and I couldn’t get the knob to budge, so I had to make the swap with the console still on.
IT.
SUCKED.
It crossed my mind, but I looked at it and thought “there is no way to replace that bulb without the console removed”. Back to pulling I went. So hats 🎩 off to you, way to go!
 
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So this past weekend, I wrapped up my lift, put the inner fenders and the high clearance LED flat fender flares on and finally got the wheels and tires on (Fuel Vapor and Nitto Ridge Grappler 35x12.5x17). Still have a long way to go!! Oh I forget about the new metal hood latches and skid plate.

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Mrs. Dog was out shopping today and saw a stock Wrangler with temporary tags. She was putting a duck on it when the lady who owns it came out. Turns out they live down the road a bit from us and she told Mrs. Dog that our Wranglers were the inspiration behind their purchase.

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