They are a dog unless you get a throttle pedal enhancer, I have a Pedal Commander. They make it alot more fun to drive and feels like it has more power.
You should be ok with a DD with those gears and 33's.
Trying to make decision on tire size for my 2010 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited
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They are a dog unless you get a throttle pedal enhancer, I have a Pedal Commander. They make it alot more fun to drive and feels like it has more power.
You should be ok with a DD with those gears and 33's.
Thanks for the advice, I will skip the spacers for sure. Maybe I will just stick with my plan for the 33's and install the 2 inch puck lift and see how she performs. Would It look out of place if I did the 2 inch puck lift and just did like a 31 inch tire?
So according to this chart 2010 JK Unlimited 4x4 Automatic w/373 gears, I would want to stay with 32 inch or smaller to maintain optimum performance? Is that correct?
TireSize.com Calculator
Use this link to get a pretty good idea of what the actual size of tires will be.
I have a 2009 Rubicon that I put 285 70 r17s on, and initially with factory wheels they didn't fit. I had to get new wheels with a different offset for them to work. They were a bit too wide in the rear and literally couldn't be put on. Newer JKs don't seem to have this problem. I'm unsure if Jeep moved something in the rear or the newer wheels fit better. Send a pic of your wheels, and pass along current tire size.
You say you have 18 inch wheels, so they must be aftermarket making the "will they fit" bit more of a question mark.
That being said, another cool thing about the website provided is that you can see who makes what size tires. If many companies make a size, I would suggest that size as they will be cheaper and more likely to be available again when it comes time to replace them. If only one company makes that size, steer clear. You will be paying for the exclusivity.
Also, given that you have an automatic, it will be super important to adjust your speedometer, as Wranglers shift points are based on that.
Use this link to get a pretty good idea of what the actual size of tires will be.
I have a 2009 Rubicon that I put 285 70 r17s on, and initially with factory wheels they didn't fit. I had to get new wheels with a different offset for them to work. They were a bit too wide in the rear and literally couldn't be put on. Newer JKs don't seem to have this problem. I'm unsure if Jeep moved something in the rear or the newer wheels fit better. Send a pic of your wheels, and pass along current tire size.
You say you have 18 inch wheels, so they must be aftermarket making the "will they fit" bit more of a question mark.
That being said, another cool thing about the website provided is that you can see who makes what size tires. If many companies make a size, I would suggest that size as they will be cheaper and more likely to be available again when it comes time to replace them. If only one company makes that size, steer clear. You will be paying for the exclusivity.
Also, given that you have an automatic, it will be super important to adjust your speedometer, as Wranglers shift points are based on that.
Good idea. Wheel spacers are a bad idea.
No, he's saying it sucked on the highway.
Increasing tire size without regearing changes the final gear ratio and decreases effective torque. You have a 200HP engine in a 4,000lb vehicle with the aerodynamics of a barn. You really do not want less torque.
If you want 33's, then you want 4.10 gears. Or even 4.56. If you want 35" tires, then you want 4.56 or 5.13 gears. The bigger the tire, the more gear you're going to need. Gear swaps are not cheap, but they work wonders. And they're cheaper than increasing power output from your engine to the degree necessary to achieve the same performance.
Correct. Big tires are awesome on a Jeep, but modifications cannot be considered in a vacuum. Mods often need supporting mods. If you're willing to give up any semblance of performance and have the acceleration of a slug, you can go with 35's or whatever with your stock 3.73 gears.
Long term, doing that can end up costing you more.
I've got 35" tires on my JK. But I've for about 50% more power than you, 4.10 gears, and a 6 speed manual. And I still think a gear swap might be in my future.
My wife has 35's on hers, too. She has the same engine as you, and the auto, but 4.10 gears. It's a bit lacking on the highway, and I'd personally find it unacceptable. I've suggested a 4.88 or 5.13 gear swap, but she doesn't do much highway driving and isn't bothered by the lack of grunt.
I looked back at the tire size to dif ratio chart and I had forgotten how much difference there is between manual and automatic for the 3.8. I have a Manual and can go with a much bigger tire than the auto can before issue show up.
Based on that, I would stick with close to stock size, probably a 32. (You could get 29/30 inch tires on some of the jeeps from then)
I felt the 33s were fine with performance. It most assuredly got out of it’s own way quite well!
The 35s are fine not hauling a load. Toss the trailer back there and hills require preplanning gas pedal pushing.
I suppose this is off topic, but wondering when you off road do you find yourself using 4low more than 4high? When I go off road and gain elevation and at incline and need to go slower the Jeep just has no umph. I release the clutch, step on the gas and it just stalls out. Yesterday went off roading most of the time less then 5mph but with incline and elevation even though I don’t think it really needed 4L it just didn’t have the umph in 4H. So drove around in 4L all day and never an issue. I am wondering if a pedal commander type of setup would help with this issue.
I don't consider it off roading if I'm not in 4Lo. It's Colorado, and most of the trails here are vertical and lumpy. I've never had problems with stalling that were not directly attributable to driver error.
Thanks, maybe our error. Just been driving manuals on and off for 35+ years and never had this issue. And even now only happens when off road at higher elevations on a steep incline from a stop. It just seems to stall out regardless of what we tr. Put it in 4L works fine all day long and works fine daily driving. Even if on a steep incline while moving at slow speeds the engine will just stall, so it’s just not from a start. Once that happens hard to get it moving again unless I put it in 4L. Just wondering what someone else’s experience was with the 6 speed. I don’t recall this same issue with my YJ when off road.
I'm not saying you're doing anything wrong. I don't know what's happening to you. I'm just saying when I stall it's been my fault. Generally just not applying the right amount of throttle before getting off the clutch.
Give another try at explaining what's happening. This paragraph is a bit of a brain dump and is hard for me to follow, I may be tired and already getting into Monday morning mode though.
Probably not worded very well above.
JK is 2015, 35,000 miles, 3.6, std 6sp and stock size tires. Symptoms below are when off roading at elevations above 5,000 feet (then again don’t really do much local here in town), usually in the Sierra’s, and on inclines.
1. When going 5 mph going uphill the Jeep has a tendency to stall. It simply like it doesn’t have enough power, rpm’s are just too low, say around 1,000-1,200 and they end up dropping regardless of how much pedal I give it. They just drop and it stalls.
2. Once the above happens it seems basically impossible to start it. I can step the gas get the rpm’s up to let the clutch peddle out and the rpm’s just drop and it stalls out again. It’s simply like there isn’t any power.
I can shift the transfer case into 4L and the problem is immediately resolved as the rpm’s stay up above 1,000 and it has enough power due to gearing ratio. When in 2 wd or 4H it’s like the Jeep just doesn’t have enough rpm (power) to climb a hill at 5 mph. I don’t believe it’s a situation of the hood insulation getting sucked down into the air intake as it doesn’t happen on the road traveling up the sierras (and there are some decent grades) plus put it into 4L and the issue goes away. Just have a hard time thinking people with a 6sp change from 4H to 4L each time when climbing a grade at 5mph, but maybe they do. Or they do like me and just travel around in 4L all day since only going 5 mph or so. I just shift gears, been up to 4th gear doing 5mph in 4L. Most people I go jeeping with have auto’s so hard to ask them.
What you're describing sounds like the incline is too steep for the gearing. Torque is 100% RPM dependent, and gearing is used for torque multiplying. The altitude reduces engines power output (which is already marginal). Think of it as trying to start in 3rd gear. Putting the transfer case in 4L increases torque multiplication and you're golden. In 4H, you'd need to be moving faster to keep the engine RPM high enough to produce enough power to keep you moving.
This isn't an issue for automatics, because the torque converter would slip, allowing the engine to run at a higher RPM even at slower speeds.
This isn't an issue for automatics, because the torque converter would slip, allowing the engine to run at a higher RPM even at slower speeds.
I'm thinking that's what 4 low
Is for, steep slopes up and down. In really tough grad I'll use lockers but do make tight turns tough.
@Dirty Dog you said it well, that is exactly how it feels. Got me thinking a little and went and looked up the specs. My YJ, while less HP the torque was at a much less rpm then what the JK is. In the JK have to get up to 4,800 rpm to get close the torque, while the YJ was only 1,400. Combine that with what I guess is probably 1/3 or more weight. I keep trying to think I can do what I did in the YJ with JK, which based on the numbers doesn’t even seem close to feasible. Was good for me to see the numbers. Seems like even if the “trail” may not need the 4L the Jeep does in order to have enough power.
Well, that is what I am needing to know before I spend the money on tires. So do you recommend I stay at 31 if I don't want to loose to much performance.
There are a couple things about engine that I think we all forget sometimes.
1 - Torque is real. HP is just a mathematical concept.
2 - Manufacturers only publish peak numbers when what we really need is a look at the torque curve.
Well, no. What I'm saying is that if you want to swap on bigger tires (and who doesn't?) you need to ALSO do a gear swap, or accept that your Jeep will be a slug. And you'll probably also want to do a lift. And some fender flares with more clearance. Maybe some trimming... Ohhh, lockers!
This is why people aren't really joking when they say that JEEP is an acronym for Just Empty Every Pocket.