The Official Jeep Wrangler JK Oxygen (O2) Sensor Thread

[Chris]

What does upstream and downstream mean?
Simple, upstream means the O2 sensor is "upstream" of the catalytic convertors, meaning before the catalytic convertors. Downstream means the O2 sensor is "downstream" of the catalytic convertors, meaning after the catalytic convertors.


What brand of O2 sensors should I use for replacements?
Pay close attention to this one so you can do it once and do it right! The Jeep Wrangler JK is extremely sensitive to all oxygen sensors other than NGK / NTK. Bosch O2 sensors and all the others (including the crappy Chinese brands you'll buy at your local auto part store) are very well documented as not working properly with our JKs. In other words, you plug them in and you assume all is well, until you notice your check engine light isn't going away. This is almost always due to the fact that you didn't use an NGK / NTK replacement O2 sensor.


Okay, so why don't other sensors (i.e. Bosch) work on our Jeeps?
Glad you asked! Check out this video for a detailed explanation of why other brands of O2 sensors don't work on our JKs:

So which O2 sensors do I need?
I'm going to break down which sensors you need based off what year your JK is. The part numbers (and information) below were taken directly from the NGK website, so you can assure it is 100% accurate (even double checked each individual year and model before writing this thread).

Be aware that NTK O2 sensors are the same thing as NGK and they share the same part numbers. NTK is owned by NGK, it's simply their division for O2 sensors.

​

2007​

NTK #23566 - Upstream Left​

NTK #25186 - Upstream Left (RHD)​

NTK #25186 - Upstream Right​

NTK #23519 - Downstream Left​

NTK #23519 - Downstream Right​

2008-2009​

NTK #23566 - Upstream Left​

NTK #25186 - Upstream Right​

NTK #23519 - Downstream Left​

NTK #23519 - Downstream Right​

2010​

NTK #25186 - Upstream Left​

NTK #25186 - Upstream Right​

NTK #23070 - Downstream Left​

NTK #23143 - Downstream Right​

2011​

NTK #23143 - Upstream Left​

NTK #23070 - Upstream Right​

NTK #23070 - Downstream Left​

NTK #23143 - Downstream Right​

​

2012​

NTK #23162 - Upstream Left​

NTK #23161 - Upstream Right​

NTK #23162 - Upstream Right (RHD)​

NTK #23161 - Downstream Left​

NTK #23162 - Downstream Right​

​

2013-2018​

NTK #23162 - Upstream Left​

NTK #23161 - Upstream Right​

NTK #23161 - Downstream Left​

NTK #23162 - Downstream Right​

Misc Installation Notes
When installing new O2 sensors, be certain to use some anti-seize on the threads of the new O2 sensors! This is important, and will save you a huge headache should you ever need to remove them in the future.

In addition, a O2 sensor socket will greatly aide in the installation and removal of O2 sensors. I recommend this one.

Lastly, if you notice your O2 sensor harnesses are not long enough with the new O2 sensors, these O2 sensor extensions will solve the problem.

 

[JerryD]

Someone dyslexified the part numbers for 2007-2009

2007-2009
Location: DOWNSTREAM LEFT
Part Number: 23159
Comment: B2S2; OE MFR: NTK

Location: DOWNSTREAM RIGHT
Part Number: 23159
Comment: B1S2; OE MFR: NTK

Note: Downstream L & R are the same.

Part Finder - NGK Spark Plugs

Search by application to find the part you need from NGK or NTK

ngksparkplugs.com

 

[EvilAngel]

According to Advance Auto's website, the 23161 is able to be used in both up/downstream and right/left. So it's interchangeable. Based on your parts list... this is correct... right? The 23161 is on the up and down and right and left... So why not just use the one part for all four??

2013-2018
NTK #23162 - Upstream Left
NTK #23161 - Upstream Right
NTK #23161 - Downstream Left
NTK #23162 - Downstream Right

PS - I got a response through email but nothing shows in the thread. Weird. I'm not trusting amazon, advance auto or autozone... that's why I'm asking here. If the part can be used in both right/left AND up/down positions... why do I need two different parts? One of which, the 23162 is vastly more expensive than the 23161. It's a JEEP so I'm trying to spend as little as possible since it eats all our money anyways....

 

[JerryD]

I wouldn't trust the database from advance, AutoZone, even Amazon... (especially Amazon), that's why I linked to the OEM website. The chart below is for a 2016 which is kind of interesting and reinforces what you posted.

This shows a sort of cross compatibility but not an all compatibility. Jks are extremely sensitive to what sensors are used where. I would only go by the Mopar number or the OEM number like above from the ntk site. My opinion, obviously.

 

[EvilAngel]

I wouldn't trust the database from advance, AutoZone, even Amazon... ( especially Amazon), that's why I linked to the OEM website. The chart below is for a 2016 which is kind of interesting.View attachment 124607
This shows a sort of cross compatibility but not an all compatibility. Jks are extremely sensitive to what sensors are used where. I would only go by the Mopar number or the OEM number like above from the ntk site. My opinion, obviously.

So what is the difference between the 23161 and 23162?? They appear to be exactly the same part that can fit into the same spaces... So why do I need two different parts? I'm trying to understand why I need to spend MORE if the one part will fit and work the same in all spaces... It doesn't make sense.

2015 Wrangler Sport JK with 133k miles

 

[JerryD]

So what is the difference between the 23161 and 23162??

Looks like harness length. If you look up those part numbers on the ntk site, and then look at the specs, the 61 is 14 inches in length and the 62 is 10 inches in length. I don't know if there are any electrical differences, but I doubt it. If you are handy with a soldering iron, might work to extend the harness.

 

[EvilAngel]

Looks like harness length. If you look up those part numbers on the ntk site, and then look at the specs, the 61 is 14 inches in length and the 62 is 10 inches in length. I don't know if there are any electrical differences, but I doubt it. If you are handy with a soldering iron, might work to extend the harness.

Okay. If that's the only difference then the 14" ought to work all around... right? lol My other car is a 2010 Mini Cooper, I own/operate a goat farm and have a horse boarded and my SO is a fly angler... All expensive things so trying to do things right but as inexpensive as possible is necessary. Thanks for the help

 

[JerryD]

My wifes cousin has fainting goats. Those are the weirdest animals, but I digress

The only caution I would have for you is to secure any extra cable. You don't want to have to replace it a 2nd time because the cable rested on the hot exhaust. I just checked the pricing and see that the longer cabled version is $25 more at the parts store near me. What the shrek? Less material = more money? Whatever. Good luck.

 

[Stormydog]

Rockauto web site for my 2017 jku shows one sensor with work on any of the 4 spots (upstream, downstream, let or right) the sensors

 

[SupaEggMan]

I'm not sure that the different P/N configurations always broke down exactly on model year increments. I have a 2010 Unlimited Sport that I just pulled the original oxygen sensors out of and the setup was identical to that of the 2011 model year in your table. The P/Ns on the original sensors were still legible and there was one set of 5149170AA / 5149169AA upstream and the same (but flipped side to side) downstream. In my case the same P/N can't be used on both the left and right upstream sensors as shown in the table for the model 2010 because the connectors are different side to side.

 

[Speartip]

What does upstream and downstream mean?
Simple, upstream means the O2 sensor is "upstream" of the catalytic convertors, meaning before the catalytic convertors. Downstream means the O2 sensor is "downstream" of the catalytic convertors, meaning after the catalytic convertors.


What brand of O2 sensors should I use for replacements?
Pay close attention to this one so you can do it once and do it right! The Jeep Wrangler JK is extremely sensitive to all oxygen sensors other than NGK / NTK. Bosch O2 sensors and all the others (including the crappy Chinese brands you'll buy at your local auto part store) are very well documented as not working properly with our JKs. In other words, you plug them in and you assume all is well, until you notice your check engine light isn't going away. This is almost always due to the fact that you didn't use an NGK / NTK replacement O2 sensor.


Okay, so why don't other sensors (i.e. Bosch) work on our Jeeps?
Glad you asked! Check out this video for a detailed explanation of why other brands of O2 sensors don't work on our JKs:

So which O2 sensors do I need?
I'm going to break down which sensors you need based off what year your JK is. The part numbers (and information) below were taken directly from the NGK website, so you can assure it is 100% accurate (even double checked each individual year and model before writing this thread).

Be aware that NTK O2 sensors are the same thing as NGK and they share the same part numbers. NTK is owned by NGK, it's simply their division for O2 sensors.

​

2007​

NTK #23566 - Upstream Left​

NTK #25186 - Upstream Left (RHD)​

NTK #25186 - Upstream Right​

NTK #23519 - Downstream Left​

NTK #23519 - Downstream Right​

2008-2009​

NTK #23566 - Upstream Left​

NTK #25186 - Upstream Right​

NTK #23519 - Downstream Left​

NTK #23519 - Downstream Right​

2010​

NTK #25186 - Upstream Left​

NTK #25186 - Upstream Right​

NTK #23070 - Downstream Left​

NTK #23143 - Downstream Right​

2011​

NTK #23143 - Upstream Left​

NTK #23070 - Upstream Right​

NTK #23070 - Downstream Left​

NTK #23143 - Downstream Right​

​

2012​

NTK #23162 - Upstream Left​

NTK #23161 - Upstream Right​

NTK #23162 - Upstream Right (RHD)​

NTK #23161 - Downstream Left​

NTK #23162 - Downstream Right​

​

2013-2018​

NTK #23162 - Upstream Left​

NTK #23161 - Upstream Right​

NTK #23161 - Downstream Left​

NTK #23162 - Downstream Right​

Misc Installation Notes
When installing new O2 sensors, be certain to use some anti-seize on the threads of the new O2 sensors! This is important, and will save you a huge headache should you ever need to remove them in the future.

In addition, a O2 sensor socket will greatly aide in the installation and removal of O2 sensors. I recommend this one.

Lastly, if you notice your O2 sensor harnesses are not long enough with the new O2 sensors, these O2 sensor extensions will solve the problem.

Some very useful info on this thread . Thank You to all that posted .

 

[Chris]

Some very useful info on this thread . Thank You to all that posted .

You’re welcome!

 

[Moab]

Two questions about 2012 bank 2, 02 sensors:

1) Bank 2 is right side - correct?

2) When I click on the downstream rightside link for 2012 it takes me to the Amazon page for that sensor. But it says they cant ship it to my location. Why wouldn't they be able to ship a sensor to CA?

3) Do I need special sensors because I am running the way more expensive CA CARB approved cats?

4) I found both rightside NTK sensors at Advanced Auto for $124 for both. I read that both sensors are the same. But that only the wires are two different lengths. One is 14" and one is 10". The 14" is cheaper by about $20. Can I get away with using the 14" on both? Don't really want to risk it considering my cats cost $2200+ EACH! Unless this is common knowledge.

 

[KeepJeep2015]

What does upstream and downstream mean?
Simple, upstream means the O2 sensor is "upstream" of the catalytic convertors, meaning before the catalytic convertors. Downstream means the O2 sensor is "downstream" of the catalytic convertors, meaning after the catalytic convertors.


What brand of O2 sensors should I use for replacements?
Pay close attention to this one so you can do it once and do it right! The Jeep Wrangler JK is extremely sensitive to all oxygen sensors other than NGK / NTK. Bosch O2 sensors and all the others (including the crappy Chinese brands you'll buy at your local auto part store) are very well documented as not working properly with our JKs. In other words, you plug them in and you assume all is well, until you notice your check engine light isn't going away. This is almost always due to the fact that you didn't use an NGK / NTK replacement O2 sensor.


Okay, so why don't other sensors (i.e. Bosch) work on our Jeeps?
Glad you asked! Check out this video for a detailed explanation of why other brands of O2 sensors don't work on our JKs:

So which O2 sensors do I need?
I'm going to break down which sensors you need based off what year your JK is. The part numbers (and information) below were taken directly from the NGK website, so you can assure it is 100% accurate (even double checked each individual year and model before writing this thread).

Be aware that NTK O2 sensors are the same thing as NGK and they share the same part numbers. NTK is owned by NGK, it's simply their division for O2 sensors.

​

2007​

NTK #23566 - Upstream Left​

NTK #25186 - Upstream Left (RHD)​

NTK #25186 - Upstream Right​

NTK #23519 - Downstream Left​

NTK #23519 - Downstream Right​

2008-2009​

NTK #23566 - Upstream Left​

NTK #25186 - Upstream Right​

NTK #23519 - Downstream Left​

NTK #23519 - Downstream Right​

2010​

NTK #25186 - Upstream Left​

NTK #25186 - Upstream Right​

NTK #23070 - Downstream Left​

NTK #23143 - Downstream Right​

2011​

NTK #23143 - Upstream Left​

NTK #23070 - Upstream Right​

NTK #23070 - Downstream Left​

NTK #23143 - Downstream Right​

​

2012​

NTK #23162 - Upstream Left​

NTK #23161 - Upstream Right​

NTK #23162 - Upstream Right (RHD)​

NTK #23161 - Downstream Left​

NTK #23162 - Downstream Right​

​

2013-2018​

NTK #23162 - Upstream Left​

NTK #23161 - Upstream Right​

NTK #23161 - Downstream Left​

NTK #23162 - Downstream Right​

Misc Installation Notes
When installing new O2 sensors, be certain to use some anti-seize on the threads of the new O2 sensors! This is important, and will save you a huge headache should you ever need to remove them in the future.

In addition, a O2 sensor socket will greatly aide in the installation and removal of O2 sensors. I recommend this one.

Lastly, if you notice your O2 sensor harnesses are not long enough with the new O2 sensors, these O2 sensor extensions will solve the problem.

just want to confirm that “left” means the left side of the car as viewed from the rear looking toward the front of the vehicle (I.e., the “driver side“ on an American vehicle). I ask that because many sites define the engine bank it is as viewed from looking at the engine. Thanks!

 

[Chris]

just want to confirm that “left” means the left side of the car as viewed from the rear looking toward the front of the vehicle (I.e., the “driver side“ on an American vehicle). I ask that because many sites define the engine bank it is as viewed from looking at the engine. Thanks!

Yes, left means you're sitting in the drivers seat. The drivers side of the car in other words.

 

[KeepJeep2015]

Yes, left means you're sitting in the drivers seat. The drivers side of the car in other words.

Chris, thanks for the reply!

 

[goodguy2k2k]

Thanks so much for this thread - you saved me from a rabbit hole of chasing down CEL's for O2 sensors on my 2011 JK.
Had a CEL code for B1S1 O2 sensor P0420, P0132, P1128. Ordered China O2 sensors off Amazon that supposedly fit my 2011 JK.
Kept getting errors and chasing other fixes since I thought my sensors were new. After pulling my hair out and CEL's remaining .. found your thread about use only NTK sensors. Bit the bullet and purchased the more expensive NTK's and voila...no more CEL's.
Note: The cheapo China sensors tested across the heater element at 6+ ohms and the NTK's tested at 3.6 ohms. So there is a difference and per you guidance (the JK being sensitive to O2 sensors) and using the NTK's was a huge win IMO. Thanks a million as I was considering getting new Cats ($$$)

BTW the difference in part numbers for the NTK's is the wire length. Upper sensor B1S1 was a pretty short lead but nice to not have it able to touch the hot exhaust. I would go with the correct part numbers as there may be some other difference I am not aware of. THe sockets are also color coded to match the JK (Grey and Black).

 

[Clyde]

This is superb info, thank you. I definitely agree that the after market sensors are problematic. I am going to get dealer Mopar sensors and let you know if this fixes my sensor error codes for 2/1 and 1/2 sensors.

In the 2011, 2012, 2013 lists, can anyone explain why the bank 1 front and back sensors are the same, and the bank 2 sensors are the same, but different from the bank 1 sensors? Unless the two banks need different sensors (which I dont understand why), it would seem from this list that these sensors are not interchangeable side to side, but are interchangeable front to back. So maybe this list has a few incorrectly mapped specs?

Also, how come the 2012 RHD spec has an oddity, then from 2013 onwards, the RHD versions on that one sensor got changed? I must admit, this confused me even more.

On my 2012 JK RHD I found that the sensor coupling plugs are not all the same. From the couplings, it seems the manufacturer wants to make sure that the sensors get installed where they should go, front and back being differently shaped and even different coloured couplings. And to make it worse, that oddity exists on my vehicle, with the one coupling being different to the equivalent one on the other side. Arrgghh!