Fun! P0520 oil pressure sensor

Threepointsix

Threepointsix

JK Enthusiast
Joined
Dec 11, 2020
Messages
444
Location
New Jersey
Just as everything seemed to be OK less than 100 miles after changing my thermostat, now I get a CEL for P0520. Can't wait to tackle this one. 🤯 I swear, its been non-stop small shyt since owning my JKU.

Anyone else take on this DIY repair?
 
BLACKJKU said:
It's still a low mile 76,000
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Oh, you'll get over 100k and more with that engine as it's proven itself similarly to the I6.

Do you know, or anyone know if I can wait on the oil pressure sensor fix? In other words, can I put it off for a little while? NJ is suuuuuper cold RN!

EDIT: oil level is good and no issues present, other than the code.
 
Threepointsix said:
Oh, you'll get over 100k and more with that engine as it's proven itself similarly to the I6.

Do you know, or anyone know if I can wait on the oil pressure sensor fix? In other words, can I put it off for a little while? NJ is suuuuuper cold RN!

EDIT: oil level is good and no issues present, other than the code.
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If it was my Jk i'd want a oil pressure gauge on it, I put one on mine which is easier then doing the 3.6. But they make the parts do do it for the 3.6.
 
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BLACKJKU said:
If it was my Jk i'd want a oil pressure gauge on it, I put one on mine which is easier then doing the 3.6. But they make the parts do do it for the 3.6.
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I'll do a search for it. Would much prefer a gauge. Its complete BS that Ive got to dig deep in the engine for this thing. Unreal!
 
I found that by drilling and tapping the top center of oil filter cap on the 3.6 engine and screwing in a 1/8 th. short nipple one can adapt to an electric sender or pressure line. I put a layer of JB weld on the outside of the fitting for extra strength. Do not use a wrench on the adapter fitting to tighten the filter cap. Myself I use a crows foot on the cap. When the engine is first started cold you'll wonder if that 95 pound reading is correct. And it is. Later I'll see if I can post a picture or 2. I hate those idiot lights.....What they usually mean is get out and start walking.
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Barry said:
I found that by drilling and tapping the top center of oil filter cap on the 3.6 engine and screwing in a 1/8 th. short nipple one can adapt to an electric sender or pressure line. I put a layer of JB weld on the outside of the fitting for extra strength. Do not use a wrench on the adapter fitting to tighten the filter cap. Myself I use a crows foot on the cap. When the engine is first started cold you'll wonder if that 95 pound reading is correct. And it is. Later I'll see if I can post a picture or 2. I hate those idiot lights.....What they usually mean is get out and start walking.
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You can buy those housings already tapped also.
 
I decided that I don't want to tackle this job myself. My lack time and the cold being the biggest burdens. So far, it's between $500 to $700 and both shops recommended I change the oil cooler housing while in there, because its a "known issue". Apparently, there's an updated version (waiting on Mopar to confirm that) of the cooler. And both also stated they don't trust the Dorman aluminum aftermarket option. On the positive side, the new cooler comes with both the oil temp sensor and pressure sensor, attached.

It's a headache and 💸 either which way you cut it.
 
Threepointsix said:
Certainly a fantastic point @BLACKJKU Im at approx 63k. The 3 plugs under the plenum have been changed (I did the lifters and rockers in Aug) so this time I'll have whoever does the oil cooler change the passenger one's.
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I don't understand either why the Mechanics don't like the Dorman Cooler, it's all aluminum. Do they know that?

Or maybe they know you'll be a return customer to have the cheap Factory one replaced again.
 
Threepointsix said:
Oh, you'll get over 100k and more with that engine as it's proven itself similarly to the I6.

Do you know, or anyone know if I can wait on the oil pressure sensor fix? In other words, can I put it off for a little while? NJ is suuuuuper cold RN!

EDIT: oil level is good and no issues present, other than the code.
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Do you have JScan? You can get real time oil pressure data there. As long as you can monitor the pressure occasionally, I'd think you'll be good.
 
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BLACKJKU said:
I don't understand either why the Mechanics don't like the Dorman Cooler, it's all aluminum. Do they know that?

Or maybe they know you'll be a return customer to have the cheap Factory one replaced again.
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Yes, typically I would think that too but one of these mechanics I've trusted and been doing business with for over a decade. He's always been 100% reliable.

End of the day, mine is not cracked or leaking. I can't quote my guy exactly but he said something about aftermarket one being aluminum and the disimilar medals causing leaks?

I also spoke with a third mechanic (local go-to for 3.6 repairs) before returning to read your post, and he too says their protocol is to change the unit every time this sensor fails because it's a known issue.

I tell you, if it happens to crack, then I'll definitively do it myself and go Dorman. But I do trust my mechanic. I'm also aware that his decision is most likely to cover his ass, warranty-wise, since he buys parts from a dealership.
 
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