Camshaft Position Sensor Codes

Right. He said that someone has been in there messing with this. Someone was probably trying to fix it on their own and was trying different things and just never figured it out and decided to instead just sell it
 
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PXL_20221123_190904829.MP~2.jpg
PXL_20221123_190848889.MP~2.jpg
 
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But that included that the water pump and the serpentine belt need to replaced with it. There was two hours on the machine It was hooked up for 3 hours but he took one hour off and only charged me for two for the diagnosis and the parts and labor I believe was around $1,400
Dang man, thanks for the info. Sorry for the issues!
 
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Had most of the same issues,plus mine would shift into nuetral and set a camshaft code.put a scanner on the alternator output found out the alt diodes were shot and it was putting a fuzzy 1/2 AC current changed the alternator no more problems.
 
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Had most of the same issues,plus mine would shift into nuetral and set a camshaft code.put a scanner on the alternator output found out the alt diodes were shot and it was putting a fuzzy 1/2 AC current changed the alternator no more problems.
How many miles were on your Jeep?
 
I also had this issue, turns out it was the wiring to the sensor, one of the leads had a break inside the shielding. This video helped me find it by checking the wire voltages:

Adding on here... I used a MOPAR kit to replace the wiring at the sensor itself, where I had found the break (right before the sensor connector). I ordered this MOPAR replacement on Amazon (lmao) for $19, thank god I did. Saved myself hundreds after my mechanic suggested I take it to the dealer (yuk).

68148103AA​

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G0OQRMU/?tag=jkforum-20

This part 100% fixed my issue. The only thing I would advise is that I had to splice and put the connector together myself. If you are familiar with working on electrical wiring, this is an EASY fix. If not, find someone that is good with wiring or you will have to take this to a shop to get it done.
 
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Hi Marc,

I was wondering if you changed out the wire harness for the cam sensor yet? If so, did you find a break in the original harness? I have a 2013 JKU and have had these cam codes on and off for the past 3 months. I'm pretty sure it's the harness as I did a voltage test on each connection, and am getting intermittent 5V readings while moving the wires on both the right and left side. Leads me to believe there's a break in the wire but I was hoping to get input from someone who went through this before I go chopping wires. Thank you for all your input so far, it's been insightful.
Hey... Sorry I never responded to you. I am on here looking for some answers to another issue I'm having and I came across this thread. I never did the harnesses....... I found it was a bad torque converter. Yeah. Apparently there are little pistons I side the TC that get all gummed up due to old funky fluid. I flushed the trans, changed the filter and drove it like I stole it. Had that sucker up to 5700 RPM. No stumble or hesitation or anything. So, I honestly still have to wiring harnesses in my tool box. Now..... I have a lifter tick and I just did all 24. I put everything back together and I have a p0349 and c121c. The codes won't clear, they come on as soon as I clear them so I'm thinking I'm glad I have those wiring harnesses... Bc Im gonna put them on tomorrow morning. It's always something with these things!! I read your posts and you said you cut the wires 3" back from the connector and crimped on the new wires. I'm gonna try that. I'm gonna do some diag first....give the wires a little wiggle and tug and see if the cel clears. It's the DS that is the issue. I had to remove it to take off the valve cover and maybe I pulled in the connector or twisted it wrong or maybe I just breathed on it and caused it to fail.... Idk, but I'm gonna start that project tomorrow. Again... I'm sorry I didn't respond to your post till now. I guess my notification alarm was off or something.
 
Hey... Sorry I never responded to you. I am on here looking for some answers to another issue I'm having and I came across this thread. I never did the harnesses....... I found it was a bad torque converter. Yeah. Apparently there are little pistons I side the TC that get all gummed up due to old funky fluid. I flushed the trans, changed the filter and drove it like I stole it. Had that sucker up to 5700 RPM. No stumble or hesitation or anything. So, I honestly still have to wiring harnesses in my tool box. Now..... I have a lifter tick and I just did all 24. I put everything back together and I have a p0349 and c121c. The codes won't clear, they come on as soon as I clear them so I'm thinking I'm glad I have those wiring harnesses... Bc Im gonna put them on tomorrow morning. It's always something with these things!! I read your posts and you said you cut the wires 3" back from the connector and crimped on the new wires. I'm gonna try that. I'm gonna do some diag first....give the wires a little wiggle and tug and see if the cel clears. It's the DS that is the issue. I had to remove it to take off the valve cover and maybe I pulled in the connector or twisted it wrong or maybe I just breathed on it and caused it to fail.... Idk, but I'm gonna start that project tomorrow. Again... I'm sorry I didn't respond to your post till now. I guess my notification alarm was off or something.
Update::::---

Did the PCM reset and the codes are still present and will not clear. So I decided to do the wiring harness on the d/s for the camshaft sensor hoping there was a broken wire or something. (Code P0349 and C121C) Codes are still present and will not clear and I'm stuck in limp mode!!! I have 5 volts on the Blue wire, yellow wire with orange tracer, and blue wire with pink tracer... (Tracer colors are what they looked like to me so don't hate me if I'm off a shade or so) and the blue with a green tracer is the ground. All the values were where they were supposed to be. I even checked back to the PCM connector. PINS: 61,63,and 87 all were good and PIN 66 was the ground and it had continuity. So now I'm wondering if it's the actual sensor?? I had to remove it when I pulled the valve cover to replace the rocker arms due to the infamous ticking noise they make when the bearing goes bad. They went in without an issue. But now there's a whole other issue that popped up. Anyone out there have a similar issue? Did a sensor fix it? Or is there another issue that I'm just not aware of? Thanks.
 
Update::::---

Did the PCM reset and the codes are still present and will not clear. So I decided to do the wiring harness on the d/s for the camshaft sensor hoping there was a broken wire or something. (Code P0349 and C121C) Codes are still present and will not clear and I'm stuck in limp mode!!! I have 5 volts on the Blue wire, yellow wire with orange tracer, and blue wire with pink tracer... (Tracer colors are what they looked like to me so don't hate me if I'm off a shade or so) and the blue with a green tracer is the ground. All the values were where they were supposed to be. I even checked back to the PCM connector. PINS: 61,63,and 87 all were good and PIN 66 was the ground and it had continuity. So now I'm wondering if it's the actual sensor?? I had to remove it when I pulled the valve cover to replace the rocker arms due to the infamous ticking noise they make when the bearing goes bad. They went in without an issue. But now there's a whole other issue that popped up. Anyone out there have a similar issue? Did a sensor fix it? Or is there another issue that I'm just not aware of? Thanks.

Alot of times if you don't use a OEM electrical part it will still cause problems.
 
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I used the wiring harness kit from moparpartsunlimited.com. OEM is the way to when it comes to electronics. Thank you. I also got the rocker arms from that same site. No Amazon junk with engine parts either. I did read on another post somewhere that if you used a magnet pickup tool to remove the rocker arms, which I did, and if you come in contact with the camshaft magnetic disc on the rear of the camshaft, that you may actually knock out the internal magnetic pickup that the cam sensor reads. So now I'm actually trying to find more information about that because that same post said that person did the same thing with the magnet pickup tool replaced their camshafts and all was well. The last thing I want to do is replace the camshafts and still have the problem. So I'm trying to narrow down what the issue is. It's always something with these darn Jeeps I tell you!! Nothing's easy!! 🤬🤬
 
@MarcSc1 did you get any updates.

I have a 2012 Jeep JKU same problem here.
Code P0365 permanent camshaft circuit bank 1 sensor 2.
I changed the camshaft sensor with a OEM one already.
Brought it to the dealer 3 days ago and finally got it today.
They open the camshaft cover to check the galley bolts. One was loose but just a little bit. The tightened everything back and add sone locktite on it.
They clear all codes and when they rook it outside to park it, the F%^{%{% code came back.
Cost me 1200$
Now it will probably cost me another 1500$ to open that again to check and maybe change the phasers.
But i will definitely check my connection tomorrow with a multimeter et check the wire before. Its worth the money.
 
I replaced my both the intake and exhaust camshaft on the left(driver's) side and my issue is GONE BABY!! Drives like a brand new Jeep! Good luck with yours. Maybe think about a new engine. No joke. A 3.6L Mopar crate engine is about $6500. It might be worth it if you're planning on keeping it.