Camshaft Position Sensor Codes

Hey all... I have a 2014 JKU with a little over 80k on it. I'm having the same issues. It started out with when the Jeep was warmed up and after driving for abt 10-15 mins, then when I reached abt 4k rpm, like I was passing someone on the hwy or on a hard accel from a stop sign or red light, the jeep would stumble and fall on its face like the rev limiter was activated or something. The engine would be revving and not going anywhere. No codes were stored or thrown. This happened all the time. Was not intermittent. So, I read on these forums that it could be a possibility that the crank sensor was bad. Replaced it...still doing it. Took it to my local shop which is a trans shop also and asked if it was a torque conv issue. He said no and to try taking it to a Jeep dealer and have the TCM and PCM reflashed bc he's seen a reflashbfix alot of problems in vehicles with trans issues. Got it flashed($170) and it didn't fix the issue. It did however make the shift points better. Then I saw something about resetting the PCM by disconnecting the battery terminals and touching them together for about 30-45 mins. That didn't do anything except waste 45 mins and cause a whole new set of issues. So.... now I get codes P0390, P0345, P0365, P0339, P0300, P2638, and C121C. The jeep reaches 3k rpm and it stumbles and falls flat and the CEL comes on and it goes into limp mode. So now I'm seeing a bunch of jeep owners on this and other forum saying that the cam phaser and actuator are the issues. These sensors control the actuation of the VVT system. Also, there are oil galley bolts which back themselves out and in some cases the bolts have completely fallen out and down into the oil pan. They are located behind/below the cam shaft actuator gears. They should be torqued to 9ft lbs. Some ppl have had the cam shafts replaced due to wear on the lobes. There was another group forum where a few owners have had the heads replaced. Apparently FCA is well aware of this problem. There is a STAR case opened from FCA.(Case #S1618000050). I am at the point where I am not willing to spend money on this. I shouldn't have these problems that the manufacturer is aware of but does absolutely nothing to fix the issue. It seems the dealers are clueless about how to fix this issue. And it not just in the US. There are ppl from Australia,Canada and Europe that are experiencing the same types of issues on the Wrangler built in 2012-15. That was 7 years ago. This morning, I inspected the camshaft position sensor connector. I noticed that the red clip on the p/s was not locked in. I wiggled the wires around to induce the code.... nothing. I checked the other side. Same thing. Red clip was not locked in either. Locked it in and did the wiggle test trying to induce a code. Nothing. So, I test drive it. I beat the snot out of it and no codes. Weird right. I had it up to over 4500 rpm and no stumbles, no hesitation and no CEL came on. I am going to get these wiring harnesses from Mopar. Part # 68148103AA. https://www.moparpartsunlimited.com/oem-parts/mopar-wiring-68148103aa

This is where I'm going to start and end this debacle. If this doesn't fix it, I'm getting rid of it. I used to work for Chrysler a long time ago and they had so many electrical issues back then and I see that it hasn't changed much. Is there anyone out there that has had the wiring harnesses replaced and has had no more issues??
Hey Marc
What is the status of vehicle? I had the same problem, hard acceleration to pass someone and it started to crawl. Both traction and engine light came on. I have a 2012 JKU with about 78k

Gary
 
Hey Marc
What is the status of vehicle? I had the same problem, hard acceleration to pass someone and it started to crawl. Both traction and engine light came on. I have a 2012 JKU with about 78k

Gary


Did you try doing the Battery reset? If that doesn't work maybe the gas pedal reset?
 
Hey Marc
What is the status of vehicle? I had the same problem, hard acceleration to pass someone and it started to crawl. Both traction and engine light came on. I have a 2012 JKU with about 78k

Gary
Just started doing it again!!! Took it in for tires this morning ($1600!!!)with a check engine light on because I accelerated too much(2300 rpm) this morning bringing it to the shop. So p!ssed!! So fed up!!! It has been fine for 2-3weeks!! I've been driving it around normally and accelerating normally with NO issues. So, now it looks like the issue is back. I ordered and received the new camshaft sensor connectors and didnt install them yet because I felt I didn't need to. But.... Looks like I know what I'm doing on Saturday. I had broken wire on my oil temp sensor under the lower intake accompanied by a DTC that wouldn't clear.(P0196) I repaired the broken wire and it was fine for 2-3 weeks... I thought that was the problem... But apparently it wasn't. I leave for OBX NC in 3 weeks and it's about an 8hr drive for me.... So I'm just frustrated. I'm seriously thinking about selling it. When I get the new connectors on, I'll post and let you know if it fixed it. Gimmie a few weeks of driving to really tell if it did anything or if it was all just a waste of time. Good luck Gary!!!
 
Did you try doing the Battery reset? If that doesn't work maybe the gas pedal reset?
I did the battery reset.... The one where you disconnect both of the terminals and touch them together for 30 mins...... Nothing. I also have reprogrammed the accelerator pedal position sensor 2x. And nothing...... Just want this to stop. I've owned many vehicles in my 30 years of driving and I've never had issues like this. This is my 4th Wrangler. (85 CJ, 94YJ, 03TJ and a 14JKU). I'm so disappointed with Chrysler on these new jeeps. SOOOO disappointed. The issues are just nightmares for the owners. There is a huge following of the Jeep brand....more than any other vehicle out there I believe, and Chrysler just builds them cheaper and cheaper each year and charges more and more with cheap electronics and palstic parts. They will not acknowledge the problems and do not train or equip their dealer technicians to know how to diagnose these issues and repair them properly. MOPAR... Made Of Plastic And Rubber.
 
Just started doing it again!!! Took it in for tires this morning ($1600!!!)with a check engine light on because I accelerated too much(2300 rpm) this morning bringing it to the shop. So p!ssed!! So fed up!!! It has been fine for 2-3weeks!! I've been driving it around normally and accelerating normally with NO issues. So, now it looks like the issue is back. I ordered and received the new camshaft sensor connectors and didnt install them yet because I felt I didn't need to. But.... Looks like I know what I'm doing on Saturday. I had broken wire on my oil temp sensor under the lower intake accompanied by a DTC that wouldn't clear.(P0196) I repaired the broken wire and it was fine for 2-3 weeks... I thought that was the problem... But apparently it wasn't. I leave for OBX NC in 3 weeks and it's about an 8hr drive for me.... So I'm just frustrated. I'm seriously thinking about selling it. When I get the new connectors on, I'll post and let you know if it fixed it. Gimmie a few weeks of driving to really tell if it did anything or if it was all just a waste of time. Good luck Gary!!!
Hi Marc,

I was wondering if you changed out the wire harness for the cam sensor yet? If so, did you find a break in the original harness? I have a 2013 JKU and have had these cam codes on and off for the past 3 months. I'm pretty sure it's the harness as I did a voltage test on each connection, and am getting intermittent 5V readings while moving the wires on both the right and left side. Leads me to believe there's a break in the wire but I was hoping to get input from someone who went through this before I go chopping wires. Thank you for all your input so far, it's been insightful.
 
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Oh man, this is a terrible read. I really hope you fellas figure this out. Please keep us JK users in the know. Meanwhile, I gotta figure out a terrible rightward wander on mine. 🫤🖕 JKU

Good luck, gents!
 
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Update......

I decided to play around with my Jeep and figured something out (hopefully). I mentioned doing a voltage test in my previous post on both the right and left cam sensor and getting intermittent 5V readings on 3 of the wires (one is a ground). This told me the there was obviously a break in the connection somewhere, but where? How far down the harness would I have to go to find it? A lot of my plastic housing on my harness is dry rotted and cracking anyway so I started pulling off the easy stuff and cutting off the tape on other parts. I went about 8 inches down from the connector on each side and didn't notice anything obvious.

New game plan, I cut the wires on the driver side cam sensor about 3 inches down. With the key in the "on" position I should have 5V to 3 out of the 4 wires. With the bare wires exposed on the harness, I attached my volt meter which registered 5V on the 3 bare wires (again, the 4th is a ground). I bent, tugged and wiggled the wires while testing. I DID NOT lose any voltage at all. I spliced the wires back together to the connector using a heat shrink butt splice terminals to ensure a good solid connection. Once again, I attached the volt meter to each terminal and again had intermittent 5V readings. The difference this time was I bent the wire directly where it feeds into the connector that attaches to the cam sensor. This leads me to believe that the actual connector is bad and that I do not have any broken wires in the harness at all. I purchased two new pigtails which I should have this Saturday. Hopefully this solves my issue once and for all. I know how frustrated I have been with this situation so I hope this helps someone out there. If anyone has any questions on what I have tried and how, I am happy to answer. I'm not a mechanic by any means but I like to tinker and fix things. I will update once I connect the new pigtails and run the Jeep for a bit.
 
Another update.

I received the new pigtails and finally got around to installing them. I cleared all the codes and went for a drive. I am no longer in limp mode and can now go over 3500 rpm. I got rid of all the codes but one which is P0305. I also picked up a new code which is P000C. One thing I will mention is, when this all started I picked up cam sensors from AutoZone. Throughout all my research I came across one common comment. Do NOT buy aftermarket sensors cause they cause nothing but problems. Unfortunately I came across this info after I bought mine. Since replacing the pigtail got rid of the codes, that leads me to believe the sensors weren’t bad to begin with. Luckily I kept my originals and will install them tomorrow. I have a good feeling this will clear the codes I have left.

A few notes for anyone going through this. Check your cam sensor seals and replace them if you deem necessary. I had fresh oil all over the seals and the sensors. I’ve always had to keep an eye on my oil which I thought the engine was consuming. I found an oil leak on the lower oil pan and changed the gasket. I thought I solved the issue but I still was losing oil. I’m pretty sure the cam sensor seal is the culprit because both sides felt dry rotted and show cracks. I’m ordering those to get rid of that leak. Second, the new pigtails came with about 6 inches of wire. When I cut the originals off, I only went 2 inches down. That gave me an extra 4 inches of play so the same issue doesn’t happen again. I wrapped the wires with heat harness tape and then covered that with wire loom tubing. If these fail again, it won’t be from the tight wire tolerances Jeep screwed up on. I’ll get rid of these codes eventually. 😂
 
Just wondering if anyone has come across this before. My JK 2013 is throwing cam shaft sensor codes, typically P0344, P0340, P365, P345 and P390 both as intermittent and permanent. The odd thing is that if the vehicle is left to cool down the codes clear and the Jeep can be started and it runs okay without any issues, until it reaches operating temperature and the codes pop up again, limiting the revs to about 3000. Have tried changing the sensors which made no difference, currently changing the connector's and chasing the wires back to the PCU. Has anyone else experienced this and if so what was the case of action taken to correct. Thanking you in advance.
We changed both camshaft position sensors and the crankshaft sensor and still kept getting the code with various other codes. Finally took it to the Jeep dealer and the grounding wire needed changed and it helped get rid of all the codes except one. Still had the camshaft position sensor code on one of the banks and they found the actuator on the tip of the position sensor had broke off, or something like that and they repaired that and now it's good to go
 
We changed both camshaft position sensors and the crankshaft sensor and still kept getting the code with various other codes. Finally took it to the Jeep dealer and the grounding wire needed changed and it helped get rid of all the codes except one. Still had the camshaft position sensor code on one of the banks and they found the actuator on the tip of the position sensor had broke off, or something like that and they repaired that and now it's good to go
The ground wire on the plug? Or somewhere on the frame? Good info, thank you.
 
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I had the same issue. The traction control light and the engine light were on and it would knock off my cruise control and it would bog down. We changed both sides of the camshaft position sensors and the crank shaft sensor. Still got codes. Even though we cleared the codes and tried to relearn the codes, It did not matter. We finally just took it to the Jeep dealer and the ground wire on the harness kit needed changed and that got rid of all the codes except one. They still were getting one side of the camshaft position sensor code. They investigated further and saw the end of the camshaft position sensor (has something to do with the actuator) and it was broke off, so they repaired it and now it's good to go
 
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I had the same issue. The traction control light and the engine light were on and it would knock off my cruise control and it would bog down. We changed both sides of the camshaft position sensors and the crank shaft sensor. Still got codes. Even though we cleared the codes and tried to relearn the codes, It did not matter. We finally just took it to the Jeep dealer and the ground wire on the harness kit needed changed and that got rid of all the codes except one. They still were getting one side of the camshaft position sensor code. They investigated further and saw the end of the camshaft position sensor (has something to do with the actuator) and it was broke off, so they repaired it and now it's good to go
Do you happen to know where on the harness? At the plug or further back?
 
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