Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler JK engine mounts

2008 JKU "Argenta" Build Thread (plus a 2010 Islander side project)

Those of you with ADHD will understand the joys of a good "side quest".

It is a curse! But gets things done.

You managed way more room than I thought was possible on the ABS harness. All said, the booster swap is more than worth it.

I had to completely ignore the OEM push-clip retainers and cut them off... once I did that, I had enough room to "snake" it around and with the addition of that new push-clip zip tie, it stayed where it should. I did end up wrapping that section of harness with a few wraps of Tesa tape (the original tape fell off anyways).
 
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eBay is probably going to be your best bet for this. I ended up with Bestop core doors because of sticker shock with the OEMs.
finally getting the full doors off has finally inspired me to start looking for some OEM half-doors as well for summer driving...
 
eBay is probably going to be your best bet for this. I ended up with Bestop core doors because of sticker shock with the OEMs.

I haven't thought about eBay, I just assumed shipping would be remarkably insane (even more than what people are getting for these half doors!).

I have seen a handful in my area go up for sale... with the rust eating Jeeps out fairly aggressively for those that don't maintain undercoat and clean during the winter, you see a few sets pop up from time to time. I am not so worried about getting ones to match the paint. Now that I have the sandblasting and powder coating place I like and can trust, I am sure I can find something he can use (even if just a semi-gloss black) to make me happy...
 
I haven't thought about eBay, I just assumed shipping would be remarkably insane (even more than what people are getting for these half doors!).

I have seen a handful in my area go up for sale... with the rust eating Jeeps out fairly aggressively for those that don't maintain undercoat and clean during the winter, you see a few sets pop up from time to time. I am not so worried about getting ones to match the paint. Now that I have the sandblasting and powder coating place I like and can trust, I am sure I can find something he can use (even if just a semi-gloss black) to make me happy...

A quick look at listings shows about $4000 for two doors and two tops. Shipping varies to included in price or about $100 per door. I'm assuming these all come unassembled as well.

By the way, I was mistaken; I have the Element doors and shells, not the Core. https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/1707-bestop-jk-element-door-review
 
A quick look at listings shows about $4000 for two doors and two tops. Shipping varies to included in price or about $100 per door. I'm assuming these all come unassembled as well.

By the way, I was mistaken; I have the Element doors and shells, not the Core. https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/1707-bestop-jk-element-door-review

I see a handful of sets in the $3500-4000 range (this is for 4 doors, not 2) but very few sell. The ones that I have followed and that have eventually been marked as sold or deleted are in the ~$2200-2500 range. For 4 clean doors with keys and latches that work, I'd be willing to spend that much, especially with tops. Anything more than that, and I'll just use the Quadratec "bar doors" that I got with the Islander. Speaking of doors, I should probably look at getting some of those wall-mounts for them...
 
Trying to keep crossing off other items on the build sheet...

Before I built the 14B, I originally ordered both the UD60 front and rear axles together. While the UD front showed up in just a few days, the rear axle was "backordered" for week and weeks before eventually getting cancelled. However, in the time that it was still on backorder, Jegs very confidently told me numerous times that it was "on its way!", so I went ahead and ordered the Mopar-designed e-brake cables to go with said UD60 rear axle:
Screenshot 2026-01-18 084421.png


Unfortunately, Jegs eventually cancelled the order and I started working on the 14B instead. Some time ago, I noticed that the brake cable ends weren't going to work and I did some work to see if I could modify them to accept the Jeep/Mopar style "hook" end, instead of the GM loop end. After some Facebook back and forth with others, I ended up making a video about it:

With my interior mostly back together, it was time to see if the cables would actually be something usable. For some background, the OEM JKU cables are the same length (~78" each). The cables meant for the UD60 rear are two different lengths: 56052970AE is ~22" longer than stock (~98"), and 68002669AD is ~12" longer than stock (90").

IMG_7192.JPG


As you can see above, one cable is a tad too short, and the other is a tad too long (though usable). I think this is because of the difference in where the caliper is mounted on these axles, and thus which direction the e-brake cable needs to be oriented. On the UD60, the cable enters the mount from the front of the vehicle. On the 14B, they have to wrap around to the back. I am honestly not sure why one would need to be 8" longer, but that's what multiple install sheets have noted to use. I am a little uncertain what the best course of action is here. They do still sell these cables on Amazon and from other Mopar parts dealers. I could likely get another ~98" long cable and run that in a similar fashion to the other one, though there may be some value in making some custom cable loops to help guide and keep the cable away from pinch and heat points.

On the other hand, I just recently learned about the "EPB Kit" from Range Industries:
Screenshot 2026-01-18 085449.png

These use 2019+ Silverado, Tahoe, or other full-size GM vehicle rear brake calipers with the electric parking brake motors built into them. They're also fully compatible with axle swap kits that use the tone-ring (like what I'm using). The kit isn't cheap, almost $500, and I would still have to find a pair of calipers (potentially hundreds of $$$). I've already got a few $$ sunk into my current setup (I had to buy new backing plates, hardware, calipers, rotors, etc.). That said, I'm not entirely off the hook for spending $$, as I would still need to buy another 98" Mopar cable ($200) and a new Mopar brake lever (~$150), as mine has a fairly worn clutch. I could potentially recoup some of the $$ by selling the brakes, as many people in the area have GMs with 14B's and many off-road rigs are running OEM disc-brake AAM's. Decisions, decision...

Speaking of decisions, one was made for me. As I was attempting to drop my gas tank (I was tired of the rust from the bottom of the skid plate constantly falling into my eyes when I was down there), I ended up snapping off not one, but two of the vent fittings on the tank. What gets me was just how absolutely careful I was being while I was dropping this - knowing just how fragile these are - and still broke two of them 😵‍💫

IMG_7197.JPG


I was a little on the fence about my justification for going with something like the GenRight or Motobilt Rear Gas Tank Conversion to support future rear suspension modifications, but this sealed the deal for me. Looks like I'll need to message my buddy Steve at Offroad Elements soon and get the tank shipped out (I'm not sure if there's a lead time or not).

At least now with the gas tank out of the way, I'll be able to run the wiring down the side much easier for the rock lights. One I get the engine bolted in place, I'll be able to get the battery tray installed and can start working on the rest of the auxiliary wiring.
IMG_7207.JPG


I really like how low and sleek the MSD relay box is
IMG_7209.JPG


Oh, and I found a spare 8HP70 that came with a lot of parts necessary for an 8HP + Hemi swap... you know, just in case I get an itch to make the Islander more fun :)
IMG_7221.JPG
 
I see a handful of sets in the $3500-4000 range (this is for 4 doors, not 2) but very few sell. The ones that I have followed and that have eventually been marked as sold or deleted are in the ~$2200-2500 range. For 4 clean doors with keys and latches that work, I'd be willing to spend that much, especially with tops. Anything more than that, and I'll just use the Quadratec "bar doors" that I got with the Islander. Speaking of doors, I should probably look at getting some of those wall-mounts for them...

Looks like Baseline has some at the higher price point...

https://www.facebook.com/share/14VcVmPt369/
 
Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler JK engine mounts