Search results

I'm unsure so I asked ChatGPT, here was it's response: Here’s what I can tell from the photo—a closer look suggests the circled piece is not actually a cable link or latch cable, but rather a flexible rubber or plastic clip/guide that helps route or secure the metal interior handle-to-latch...

Given that you’ve already replaced the signal switch and the harnesses, it sounds like you're on the right track. Here are a few things to consider: Ground Connections: Ensure that the ground connections for the rear signal lights are clean and secure. Poor grounding can lead to erratic...

https://wranglerfix.com Tell Mark that Chris sent you. He'll take care of you.

Everything is interconnected on these modern, electronically controlled vehicles! Glad you figured it out, and more importantly, thanks for the update. I'm sure the down the road this post will help someone.

Since you've already replaced the camshaft positioning sensors and the lights are still on, here are a few suggestions to help diagnose the issue further: Check for Codes Again: Even after replacing the sensors, it's a good idea to scan for trouble codes again. There might be other codes or...

That's awesome! Job well done

Bestop has really been sucking the past several years, that's for sure. Whoever is running the company now needs to be fired.

How on earth did that happen? Have you inspected the rear axle and components around that area? I wonder if something from the road jumped up and got stuck in there?

Yep, more-and-more it's becoming better to do your own maintenance. As much as you can at least. That's what I try to do because most places just want to rip you off.

Best-of-the-best, that's for sure!

Sorry, I forgot to mention I undid the other end of it so everything came out the other end!

Yep, when the JK arrived on the scene it brought with it an entourage of buffoons that do things like this and somehow think it looks cool.

I've used the air compressor trick before and it's worked well for me.

This is where I'm at too. It's going to be hard to prove anything for sure, but it sounds like it's most likely going to come down to a legal battle if you go this route. I'm really sorry to hear about this, it's a rough situation to be in.

You're welcome! I'm glad I could help. Regarding your oil pressure, a reading of 10-15 PSI when the engine is warm is generally on the lower end for the 3.6L engine, especially at idle. Ideally, you want to see around 20-25 PSI at idle when it's warm and even higher during acceleration. A...

The knocking sound you're describing could be caused by a few different issues: New Components Settling: Sometimes, when new lifters or rockers are installed, they can take some time to settle. If the new parts are not fully lubricated or if there’s an issue with the engine oil, it can lead to...

Yes, engine oil does lubricate the VVT solenoids, even when they're not actively engaged. Using a product like Liquimoly engine flush can help clean out sludge and deposits that may be affecting the solenoid's performance due to your past neglected oil changes. However, you're right to be...

Here are a few things you can check: Fan Relay: Sometimes, the relay can cause intermittent issues. Try swapping the relay with another one in the fuse box (just make sure it’s the same type) to see if that resolves the issue. Wiring and Connectors: Inspect the wiring and connectors around the...

It's either the battery or the battery cables is my guess.

From what you described, it sounds like you've systematically tackled a lot of the common culprits associated with death wobble. Here are a few things I’d suggest considering based on your experience and timeline: Alignment Check: You mentioned that the shop didn't provide you with alignment...