2008 JKU "Argenta" Build Thread (plus a 2010 Islander side project)

WSS said:

Those of you with ADHD will understand the joys of a good "side quest".

It is a curse! But gets things done.

You managed way more room than I thought was possible on the ABS harness. All said, the booster swap is more than worth it.

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I had to completely ignore the OEM push-clip retainers and cut them off... once I did that, I had enough room to "snake" it around and with the addition of that new push-clip zip tie, it stayed where it should. I did end up wrapping that section of harness with a few wraps of Tesa tape (the original tape fell off anyways).

Cimmerian said:

eBay is probably going to be your best bet for this. I ended up with Bestop core doors because of sticker shock with the OEMs.

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I haven't thought about eBay, I just assumed shipping would be remarkably insane (even more than what people are getting for these half doors!).

I have seen a handful in my area go up for sale... with the rust eating Jeeps out fairly aggressively for those that don't maintain undercoat and clean during the winter, you see a few sets pop up from time to time. I am not so worried about getting ones to match the paint. Now that I have the sandblasting and powder coating place I like and can trust, I am sure I can find something he can use (even if just a semi-gloss black) to make me happy...

Cimmerian said:

A quick look at listings shows about $4000 for two doors and two tops. Shipping varies to included in price or about $100 per door. I'm assuming these all come unassembled as well.

By the way, I was mistaken; I have the Element doors and shells, not the Core. https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/1707-bestop-jk-element-door-review

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I see a handful of sets in the $3500-4000 range (this is for 4 doors, not 2) but very few sell. The ones that I have followed and that have eventually been marked as sold or deleted are in the ~$2200-2500 range. For 4 clean doors with keys and latches that work, I'd be willing to spend that much, especially with tops. Anything more than that, and I'll just use the Quadratec "bar doors" that I got with the Islander. Speaking of doors, I should probably look at getting some of those wall-mounts for them...

Trying to keep crossing off other items on the build sheet...

Before I built the 14B, I originally ordered both the UD60 front and rear axles together. While the UD front showed up in just a few days, the rear axle was "backordered" for week and weeks before eventually getting cancelled. However, in the time that it was still on backorder, Jegs very confidently told me numerous times that it was "on its way!", so I went ahead and ordered the Mopar-designed e-brake cables to go with said UD60 rear axle:


Unfortunately, Jegs eventually cancelled the order and I started working on the 14B instead. Some time ago, I noticed that the brake cable ends weren't going to work and I did some work to see if I could modify them to accept the Jeep/Mopar style "hook" end, instead of the GM loop end. After some Facebook back and forth with others, I ended up making a video about it:

With my interior mostly back together, it was time to see if the cables would actually be something usable. For some background, the OEM JKU cables are the same length (~78" each). The cables meant for the UD60 rear are two different lengths: 56052970AE is ~22" longer than stock (~98"), and 68002669AD is ~12" longer than stock (90").



As you can see above, one cable is a tad too short, and the other is a tad too long (though usable). I think this is because of the difference in where the caliper is mounted on these axles, and thus which direction the e-brake cable needs to be oriented. On the UD60, the cable enters the mount from the front of the vehicle. On the 14B, they have to wrap around to the back. I am honestly not sure why one would need to be 8" longer, but that's what multiple install sheets have noted to use. I am a little uncertain what the best course of action is here. They do still sell these cables on Amazon and from other Mopar parts dealers. I could likely get another ~98" long cable and run that in a similar fashion to the other one, though there may be some value in making some custom cable loops to help guide and keep the cable away from pinch and heat points.

On the other hand, I just recently learned about the "EPB Kit" from Range Industries:

These use 2019+ Silverado, Tahoe, or other full-size GM vehicle rear brake calipers with the electric parking brake motors built into them. They're also fully compatible with axle swap kits that use the tone-ring (like what I'm using). The kit isn't cheap, almost $500, and I would still have to find a pair of calipers (potentially hundreds of $$$). I've already got a few $$ sunk into my current setup (I had to buy new backing plates, hardware, calipers, rotors, etc.). That said, I'm not entirely off the hook for spending $$, as I would still need to buy another 98" Mopar cable ($200) and a new Mopar brake lever (~$150), as mine has a fairly worn clutch. I could potentially recoup some of the $$ by selling the brakes, as many people in the area have GMs with 14B's and many off-road rigs are running OEM disc-brake AAM's. Decisions, decision...

Speaking of decisions, one was made for me. As I was attempting to drop my gas tank (I was tired of the rust from the bottom of the skid plate constantly falling into my eyes when I was down there), I ended up snapping off not one, but two of the vent fittings on the tank. What gets me was just how absolutely careful I was being while I was dropping this - knowing just how fragile these are - and still broke two of them



I was a little on the fence about my justification for going with something like the GenRight or Motobilt Rear Gas Tank Conversion to support future rear suspension modifications, but this sealed the deal for me. Looks like I'll need to message my buddy Steve at Offroad Elements soon and get the tank shipped out (I'm not sure if there's a lead time or not).

At least now with the gas tank out of the way, I'll be able to run the wiring down the side much easier for the rock lights. One I get the engine bolted in place, I'll be able to get the battery tray installed and can start working on the rest of the auxiliary wiring.


I really like how low and sleek the MSD relay box is


Oh, and I found a spare 8HP70 that came with a lot of parts necessary for an 8HP + Hemi swap... you know, just in case I get an itch to make the Islander more fun

Waiting on some other parts to arrive, so I'm getting done what I can...

I ordered these Gatekeeper Offroad Steering Arm brackets a few weeks ago. I was on the fence about them for a little while, as they seemed a little "gimmicky". However, everyone I asked about them has loved them. When I saw a set on a plow truck not too long ago, the light output was in the perfect spot for hunting/nighttime trails, so I ended up taking advantage of their "Jolly" Christmas sale...

They arrived yesterday, so I figured now was a good a time as any to get them going. The passenger side is easy for the UD60 application. Unbolt the steering arm bolts, put the bracket down, and tighten the nuts back up...


The driver side was a little more work. You can either tap the knuckle and install bolts, or simply weld them straight to the knuckle. For future ease of maintenance, I went with the drill and tap approach...




Tapping cast steel for 1/2-13 bolts is bit of a pain, but it went smooth enough. Once I get the engine fully in place, I'll get the wires run for these...

tJKrider said:

I've debated getting a set for my truck. I've had the same feedback from people who have actually used them - nothing but positives.

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I’m gonna tie them on to the same circuit as my rock lights… should be handy for trails, camping, rescue missions, etc.

I'm still waiting on some parts before I can drop the engine and trans in place, so I'm working on what I can. In preparation for the Motobilt Rear Gas Tank, I went through the installation instructions from their website. I haven't ordered the tank yet, simply because I don't want to be tripping over it. However, once I get the engine and trans dropped in, I'll be able to clean up a significant portion of the back of the garage and will be able to order (and store) it then.

Anyway, the instructions state to cut off both exhaust hangers in the rear (for the OEM muffler). The process was easy and only took ~10 minutes for both sides. The original plan was to use a cut-off wheel, but due to the angle and location, I ended up using a Diablo metal cut off blade on my reciprocating saw.



Ta da! A quick hit with a flap disc got it smooth, then I hit it with a short shot of primer and paint.


I did the same with a broken exhaust hanger bracket on the frame near the T-case. I'm not sure if the JSS Headers + Exhaust kit will use that hanger, but it was literally just a stub, so it wasn't doing much at the moment anyways. After I was done working on cutting the stub mount off (which also was easier with a metal cut off blade instead of a cut-off disc), I started marking where I need to clean up the frame so I can weld the OHF Frame Reinforcement Brackets on:


There's BARELY any thread engagement with the OEM bolts, so I need to get some longer ones before tightening them down (so I can weld them in place). My mounts are fine, but a lot of folks have issues with the brackets cracking, especially with a V8 and skid plate whacks, so I'm proactively tackling these before they become a problem.


Turning back to the front end, I got the Rigid Pod Lights (on the knuckles), front ABS sensor wires, E-locker wiring, front axle vent tube, and brake lines secured and bundled together. I just ordered some USA-made PVC covered 14 AWG/2-conductor wire and will get the wires run to the relay box shortly. My plan is to use a few DT 2-pin connectors so they can be quickly disconnected for service and deep cleaning...

Hopefully the rest of the parts show up soon so I can get the motor and trans in. I still need to:
- Measure for driveshafts
- Modify t-case shifter bracket and clearance transmission "rib"
- Get the battery box in and start making my battery cables
- Re-loom some of the remaining factory harness (I need the engine and trans in place so I can remove the ratchet straps keeping the front end sucked down)
- Finish the install steps for the Motobilt tank (i.e. cut a big a$$ hole in the back), modify the filler pipe, etc.
- Relocate the EVAP, run new lines to EVAP canister (from tank), and run new evap and fuel lines to engine
- Find good locations for the KC Cyclone Rock Lights
- Order some inner fenders that aren't horrendous
- Run the new harness, ECM, fuel lines, etc.
- Modify the shifter bezel to accept the JSS one, while also putting in a "sport mode" button
- Clean interior floor, install sound deadener and new carpet kit
- Thoroughly deep clean the seats again
- Align steering
- Bleed ABS and brakes again (since the J8 install)
- Hook up the KBD flare "turn signal" lights
- Recheck and cross-mark all suspension bolt torque, including the control arm lock nuts

I'm still ahead in terms of overall progress and should be done well ahead of the May deadline, but I'd like to get this thing mostly assembled so I can work out the bugs with plenty of time and without rushing!