What gears will work best with 35s and highway driving?

One thing I forgot to include is auto vs manual. With an auto, the 4.56 would be perfect for me (I have an auto). However, I keep forgetting a lot of people own manuals. If it's a manual, I would have the 4.10s no doubt. The transmission does indeed make a huge difference when determining the proper gear ratio.

Having ridden in my buddies with 4.56, an auto, and 35s, it's absolutely perfect. However, mine with the same setup is also very close to being perfect as well (y)


Thanks for repeating what I just posted.
Could you save me some trouble and post it first, next time ??

LOL
 
One thing I forgot to include is auto vs manual. With an auto, the 4.56 would be perfect for me (I have an auto). However, I keep forgetting a lot of people own manuals. If it's a manual, I would have the 4.10s no doubt. The transmission does indeed make a huge difference when determining the proper gear ratio.

Having ridden in my buddies with 4.56, an auto, and 35s, it's absolutely perfect. However, mine with the same setup is also very close to being perfect as well (y)
Yeah, i would say since you are needing to regear, go 4.56, but if you had 4.10s like some of us, it would not have enough benefit to upgrade to 4.56.
 
Yeah, i would say since you are needing to regear, go 4.56, but if you had 4.10s like some of us, it would not have enough benefit to upgrade to 4.56.

AB52A8F0-89A3-4204-88D0-FA0D1B35B397.jpeg
 
Thanks for repeating what I just posted.
Could you save me some trouble and post it first, next time ??

LOL

Didn't get your Wheaties for breakfast this morning :LOL:

Must be that Manitoba weather, huh?

Yeah, i would say since you are needing to regear, go 4.56, but if you had 4.10s like some of us, it would not have enough benefit to upgrade to 4.56.

Don't you dare go against anything @Jeepguy1 is saying, he'll post this regurgitated "gear chart" :ROFLMAO:


So the OP has a 3.8 in his 2017 Jeep Wrangler? As in the same 3.8 that makes almost 100 HP less than the 3.6 that should be in his 2017? Or is it just that 3.8 in Canada is the same as 3.6 in the U.S.? :rolleyes:

Anyways, I am butting out of this thread now, but I'll leave it at this: When in doubt ALWAYS gear deeper. If someone gives you a choice between 4.10 and 4.56 and you think that 4.10 would likely be fine, but you also have the choice between 4.56, you always want to go with the deeper gears.
 
Didn't get your Wheaties for breakfast this morning :LOL:

Must be that Manitoba weather, huh?


Don't you dare go against anything @Jeepguy1 is saying, he'll post this regurgitated "gear chart" :ROFLMAO:



So the OP has a 3.8 in his 2017 Jeep Wrangler? As in the same 3.8 that makes almost 100 HP less than the 3.6 that should be in his 2017? Or is it just that 3.8 in Canada is the same as 3.6 in the U.S.? :rolleyes:

Anyways, I am butting out of this thread now, but I'll leave it at this: When in doubt ALWAYS gear deeper. If someone gives you a choice between 4.10 and 4.56 and you think that 4.10 would likely be fine, but you also have the choice between 4.56, you always want to go with the deeper gears.

Pretty funny. Comedy might just be your calling.
Built my first jeep over 35 years ago. Doesn’t make me an expert, I’m still learning, as things change with these new engines and torque curves move up the tach.
I miss my old school AMC V8s.
Most of the jeep owners today are too young to Know what AMC stands for, let alone remember running them.

Once in awhile I am fortunate enough to have an intelligent conversation with another old school enthusiast, but the norm is more that I get heckled on a forum by some pup that hasn’t had the training wheels off yet, let alone landed dirty side up at the bottom of a water hole.....

I’m just here trying to lend my experience to the next generation, not be an asshole or come across as a know it all.
Please respect that, and I’ll try to be less sarcastic to the lesser experienced/intelligent among us.

Thanks again to Willys Overland, AMC, and Chrysler Corp for bringing us all together as one big happy family.
 
Yes, they crack, but it takes all the power that my 1/4” impact driver will go..... lmao... smartass.

Second question....
I’ve spent the last month working the numbers and talking to friends in the local clubs about your exact question.
I have a 30/44 combo as you do.
After much deliberation.....

I have the manual 6 speed: 4.10/chromoly axles/rear posi and an open front with a selectable locker, is a good combination for a 315/35” tire

I’m doing the posi/locker combination because of my experience, not on the advice of anyone else.
The carriers need to be changed anyway, and I’ll have it torn down to that point... I hate doing it all twice.
I didn’t opt to an open/selectable in the rear because it is still driven daily.

If you have an auto, I’d lean towards the 4.56, and all the rest the same as above.

I like my rpms to sit around 2300 when on the hiway, and those combinations will get you close.
There are guys that will tell you that you should be running more RPMs than that, but they haven’t seen the dyno charts, or don’t know how to interpret them
Are chromoly axles really that much better and which posi/locker are you considering
 
Didn't get your Wheaties for breakfast this morning :LOL:

Must be that Manitoba weather, huh?



Don't you dare go against anything @Jeepguy1 is saying, he'll post this regurgitated "gear chart" :ROFLMAO:



So the OP has a 3.8 in his 2017 Jeep Wrangler? As in the same 3.8 that makes almost 100 HP less than the 3.6 that should be in his 2017? Or is it just that 3.8 in Canada is the same as 3.6 in the U.S.? :rolleyes:

Anyways, I am butting out of this thread now, but I'll leave it at this: When in doubt ALWAYS gear deeper. If someone gives you a choice between 4.10 and 4.56 and you think that 4.10 would likely be fine, but you also have the choice between 4.56, you always want to go with the deeper gears.
3.6l
 
Pretty funny. Comedy might just be your calling.
Built my first jeep over 35 years ago. Doesn’t make me an expert, I’m still learning, as things change with these new engines and torque curves move up the tach.
I miss my old school AMC V8s.
Most of the jeep owners today are too young to Know what AMC stands for, let alone remember running them.

Once in awhile I am fortunate enough to have an intelligent conversation with another old school enthusiast, but the norm is more that I get heckled on a forum by some pup that hasn’t had the training wheels off yet, let alone landed dirty side up at the bottom of a water hole.....

I’m just here trying to lend my experience to the next generation, not be an asshole or come across as a know it all.
Please respect that, and I’ll try to be less sarcastic to the lesser experienced/intelligent among us.

Thanks again to Willys Overland, AMC, and Chrysler Corp for bringing us all together as one big happy family.
I thank you for your wisdom ! I’m old school as well but I’ve never modified axels only rebuilt stock. So I feel like I’m starting from scratch if you know what I mean. I want to strengthen my Dana 30 while I regear to 4.56. I have stock 3.21 now. And I don’t off road as much as I’d like to about 15% of my total driving Not looking to go hardcore or I’d put 1tons in it just want it dependable daily driver that can go off road.
 
Not to sound stupid but ox front,Yukon rear? Is the factory rear a problem on the dana44hd

Correct.
The factory rear isn’t problematic, but stepping from 321 to 410, I had to change the carrier, so my factory posi carrier will no longer fit.
Same up front, I could have bought a new open carrier for under $200, but if you are going to add a locker later anyway, why go through the gear set up twice..... that’s why I’m doing the axle swap now also.
I hate being the idiot on the trail breaking stuff and spoiling the day for the group... when I new in advance that lower gears and bigger tires, multiply torque, and usually break stock parts.
 
Correct.
The factory rear isn’t problematic, but stepping from 321 to 410, I had to change the carrier, so my factory posi carrier will no longer fit.
Same up front, I could have bought a new open carrier for under $200, but if you are going to add a locker later anyway, why go through the gear set up twice..... that’s why I’m doing the axle swap now also.
I hate being the idiot on the trail breaking stuff and spoiling the day for the group... when I new in advance that lower gears and bigger tires, multiply torque, and usually break stock parts.
Thanks
 
I started driving in the 1970s when the IMSA Corvette was the thing....
Thankfully we grew up.
174603551.jpg.jpeg


I think we are at the same point with Jeeps today.
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i am also running 4.10s on 315s and get about 17 MPG on the city.... mine is a 2007 auto though, your 2017 should be better
 
So after reading the replies, I should know the answer but I'm going to ask anyway. I have an 08 jku auto with 3.73 gears and want to run 35's doing the math I need 4.56 gears. I currently run 265 75 R18 and tach 2000 at 70 with rpms going up to 25000 to 3000 after regearing would that not be putting more stress on motor and trans?
 
So after reading the replies, I should know the answer but I'm going to ask anyway. I have an 08 jku auto with 3.73 gears and want to run 35's doing the math I need 4.56 gears. I currently run 265 75 R18 and tach 2000 at 70 with rpms going up to 25000 to 3000 after regearing would that not be putting more stress on motor and trans?

exactly.
If you have an auto, 456 and a true 35” tire is ok. But still a little revy in my opinion
If you have the 6 speed manual, then 4:10 and a 315/70/17 (34.6) will do just fine.
I’m in the second group.
 
exactly.
If you have an auto, 456 and a true 35” tire is ok. But still a little revy in my opinion
If you have the 6 speed manual, then 4:10 and a 315/70/17 (34.6) will do just fine.
I’m in the second group.
I haven't purchased the tires yet but I do want to go to a 17" wheel just trying to figure out what gears and what all i need to run 35's