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What gears will work best with 35s and highway driving?

Tcausborn

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I have a 2017 jk automatic with 3.21 gears. I’m wanting to run 4.11 and 35’s and I run interstate a lot so I need to keep the top end. Is anyone running 35s that runs interstate a lot
 

IndominusHuman

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I have a 2017 jk automatic with 3.21 gears. I’m wanting to run 4.11 and 35’s and I run interstate a lot so I need to keep the top end. Is anyone running 35s that runs interstate a lot
I have a 17 Rubicon Recon with 4.10 gears, 35's and drive 50 miles on the interstate every day. What questions do you have?
 

IndominusHuman

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Mine performs great. However I will say I am stock. I have Mopar hightop fenders that allow me to run "35s" on stock rubicon suspension.

I have plenty of get up and go, i can beat some cars off the line if i want to floor it. I have never thought "man, i wish i had more get up and go"

Running at 70 it stays at around 2500 rpm. My only complaint is of course MPG. I get significantly better MPG in the city than the highway. 16 highway and 19 city.
I imagine with other gears you can remedy this, but the cost for me would outweigh the gas savings and its a jeeps so its whatever.

All in all, I personally have no issues with my 4.10s.
 

Chris

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If it's an automatic, you'll ideally want 4.56 gears. 4.10 isn't bad at all on the highway with 35s, but 4.56 is perfect.
 
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Jeepguy1

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If it's an automatic, you'll ideally want 4.56 gears. 4.10 isn't bad at all on the highway with 35s, but 4.56 is perfect.

He is doing 2500 rpm on the hiway at 70 with 410s
That’s about perfect.
You don’t want to be running down the hiway at 2800 all day long
 
OP
Tcausborn

Tcausborn

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Mine performs great. However I will say I am stock. I have Mopar hightop fenders that allow me to run "35s" on stock rubicon suspension.

I have plenty of get up and go, i can beat some cars off the line if i want to floor it. I have never thought "man, i wish i had more get up and go"

Running at 70 it stays at around 2500 rpm. My only complaint is of course MPG. I get significantly better MPG in the city than the highway. 16 highway and 19 city.
I imagine with other gears you can remedy this, but the cost for me would outweigh the gas savings and its a jeeps so its whatever.

All in all, I personally have no issues with my 4.10s.
Thanks for the views. Calculations are great but don’t always equal reality.
 

Chris

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He is doing 2500 rpm on the hiway at 70 with 410s
That’s about perfect.
You don’t want to be running down the hiway at 2800 all day long

Interesting, with 4.10s on my 2016 Rubicon I am at about 2200 at 70 MPH on the highway.

That's on 315s, but close enough.

I still stand by my recommendation of 4.56 for 35s personally. I consider 2500-3000 RPM to be the engine sweet spot. So he's at the lower end, so at this point it's just up to personal preference. I'd rather be around 2800 personally.
 
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Tcausborn

Tcausborn

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Thanks everyone. I understand the math of 4.56 but everyone I’ve talked to says with an automatic they are running 2700 to 3000 @70mph. That’s a bit much considering I’m driving 5 and a half hours to our mountain cabin one way.
 
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Tcausborn

Tcausborn

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Interesting, with 4.10s on my 2016 Rubicon I am at about 2200 at 70 MPH on the highway.

That's on 315s, but close enough.

I still stand by my recommendation of 4.56 for 35s personally. I consider 2500-3000 RPM to be the engine sweet spot. So he's at the lower end, so at this point it's just up to personal preference. I'd rather be around 2800 personally.
I’m looking at 315s. Like you said close enough.
 

Jeepguy1

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If it's an automatic, you'll ideally want 4.56 gears. 4.10 isn't bad at all on the highway with 35s, but 4.56 is perfect.

You’ll be a wee bit lower RPM with the auto. I think final drive is .78 ?

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Chris

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I’m looking at 315s. Like you said close enough.

Yep, if you're running 315s, 4.10s are close enough. I would consider 4.56 to be "perfect", but I also wouldn't waste the time and money going from 4.10 to 4.56, as it's not enough to make a huge difference (as oppose to going from 3.21 to 4.56 for instance).

My 2016 Rubicon with 315s and factory 4.10s does highways at 70+ just fine with no complaints. If I was putting in new axles, I would re-gear to 4.56 at the same time, but for right now, it would be a waste.
 

Jeepguy1

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What about Yukon gears? Anyone have experience with any particular brands good or bad?


Best gears, bar none.
I’ve installed several different brands, and Yukon gears set up on the first crack almost every time.
I don’t buy anything BUT Yukon gears and axles
 

Jeepguy1

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Yep, if you're running 315s, 4.10s are close enough. I would consider 4.56 to be "perfect", but I also wouldn't waste the time and money going from 4.10 to 4.56, as it's not enough to make a huge difference (as oppose to going from 3.21 to 4.56 for instance).

My 2016 Rubicon with 315s and factory 4.10s does highways at 70+ just fine with no complaints. If I was putting in new axles, I would re-gear to 4.56 at the same time, but for right now, it would be a waste.

You would open up your pumpkin and regear if you were doing an axle swap ??
 
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Tcausborn

Tcausborn

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Ok new question. I have stock 3.21 gears in a next gen dana30 front and dana44hd rear. Looking to regear for 35’s most likely 4.56. It’s a daily driver and I drive long trips on interstate at around 70mph less than 1500lbs towing. When I tow. I want to off-road from time to time I took it pure stock up Dutch John at Uwharrie so I know how to drive , I just want to lift it for bigger tires for better traction and less undercarriage damage. Suggestions and recommendations welcome. Do I need to change the stock axels if I regear. Is it worth the money to get lockers when my crawling is only 15% of my total use.
 

Jeepguy1

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Ok new question. I have stock 3.21 gears in a next gen dana30 front and dana44hd rear. Looking to regear for 35’s most likely 4.56. It’s a daily driver and I drive long trips on interstate at around 70mph less than 1500lbs towing. When I tow. I want to off-road from time to time I took it pure stock up Dutch John at Uwharrie so I know how to drive , I just want to lift it for bigger tires for better traction and less undercarriage damage. Suggestions and recommendations welcome. Do I need to change the stock axels if I regear. Is it worth the money to get lockers when my crawling is only 15% of my total use.

Yes, they crack, but it takes all the power that my 1/4” impact driver will go..... lmao... smartass.

Second question....
I’ve spent the last month working the numbers and talking to friends in the local clubs about your exact question.
I have a 30/44 combo as you do.
After much deliberation.....

I have the manual 6 speed: 4.10/chromoly axles/rear posi and an open front with a selectable locker, is a good combination for a 315/35” tire

I’m doing the posi/locker combination because of my experience, not on the advice of anyone else.
The carriers need to be changed anyway, and I’ll have it torn down to that point... I hate doing it all twice.
I didn’t opt to an open/selectable in the rear because it is still driven daily.

If you have an auto, I’d lean towards the 4.56, and all the rest the same as above.

I like my rpms to sit around 2300 when on the hiway, and those combinations will get you close.
There are guys that will tell you that you should be running more RPMs than that, but they haven’t seen the dyno charts, or don’t know how to interpret them
 

Chris

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One thing I forgot to include is auto vs manual. With an auto, the 4.56 would be perfect for me (I have an auto). However, I keep forgetting a lot of people own manuals. If it's a manual, I would have the 4.10s no doubt. The transmission does indeed make a huge difference when determining the proper gear ratio.

Having ridden in my buddies with 4.56, an auto, and 35s, it's absolutely perfect. However, mine with the same setup is also very close to being perfect as well (y)