Scared to drive ol' Red: another death wobble story

[JeepJeezy]

Did the shop explain why longer sway bar links are recommended?

On the road/highway, your sway bar should be parallel to the ground for it to be most effective.

 

[WSS]

On the road/highway, your sway bar should be parallel to the ground for it to be most effective.

Does that apply to anti rock style sway bars too? The reason for asking is I have a coilover swap coming up and "longer" sway bar links are recommended. I already have the teraflex swaybar system matched to my 4.5" lift. They sit a little high, maybe 2 degrees up.

 

[JeepJeezy]

Does that apply to anti rock style sway bars too? The reason for asking is I have a coilover swap coming up and "longer" sway bar links are recommended. I already have the teraflex swaybar system matched to my 4.5" lift. They sit a little high, maybe 2 degrees up.

No. RockJock and Antirock require a slight higher angle to accommodate for the suspension movement.

 

[Jskunk]

Did the shop explain why longer sway bar links are recommended?

The previous owner put spacers under the sway bar instead of adding proper length sway bar links or quick disconnects when the lift was installed. Looks terrible once I saw it on the lift. Not really a priority but they are 100% too short and can be done right for cheap.

When the axle was flexed the stock length links were really stretched out at a wierd angle. Im going to install some cheap adjustable length quick disconnects and get rid of the stock parts.

 

[Speartip]

Simple lifts do destroy the geometry of the front setup, and can lead to wobble and other issues, even if all other parts seems ok. The lift pulls the front axle back, and alter the angles on the wheels. When you do the alignment, all values need to be correctly in spec, else you need extra components to do any compensating adjustments your specific lift components do not cater for. Depending on what's out of spec, the symptoms, and what lift you have, will determine what you'll need to overcome the issue. My Wrangler 2door Rubicon I bought came with a 2.5 aftermarket lift. It just dove alarmingly when I braked, and steering was unpredictable and flighty and pulling all over the place. Turning was a lottery. This was in part because center of mass was now too much ahead of the front axle, and also because the wheels were not tracking to spec. I guess it's a lot of the reason the previous owner sold it, because he couldnt solve the problem. A few spacers and a couple of settable compensating caster/camber brackets fully solved the issue. For me, I went settable rather than adjustable, because I didn't want them maybe losing their setting over time due to driving very rugged terrain.

Bang on comment . Solid front axles were used in quite a few trucks & the original SUV’s like Bromcos & Blazers back in the day . Knew a few who owned them..
Wobble was never an issue .
Seems the Wrangler is highly sensitive if geometry is out .
Also prone to wearing out components like track bar, control arm bushings and front bearing /hubs .
It’s almost as if the overall design of the front suspension system in the JK’s , JL’s etc is flawed in some way.
I really do wonder at times if Jeep switched to Independant Front Suspension it might be a positive change in the right direction . Yes you may loose some articulation but your gains in reliability and drive ability would be huge .
Never really hear about Taco issues with their setup . I’m sure it’s not perfect but it’s gotta be better then what we’ve got going on .
Yeah I know probably get raked over the coals for suggesting it . Just thinking out loud my friends .