Lighting bolt and loss of power

I'm gonna call them and discuss replacing the crank position sensor w/ a MOPAR unit to see if the CEL & codes go away. That's the last thing done and it may be one of the parts that just doesn't have a good aftermarket replacement for. Not much different than an O2 sensor in that regard.
TBH, I'm shocked they didn't mention a transmission service, which is surely due w/ this mileage.
 
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Simply because it is already there, I asked them to provide a cost to replace the CSP sensor w/ a MOPAR unit.
BTW, I can get the MOPAR sensor for under $20, so there’s that.
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Snowbird Tom said:
Karnak says $350 for parts and labor.
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He’s not off by much… 😂
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If I have them put in the new sensor, the bill is $263.

If I don’t have them do the sensor, the charges for diagnosing all of the things I don’t want to do is $245.

The cost of the sensor being the only difference, I’ll just have them do it and move on.
 
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They did not give me the codes - yet.
I had replaced the CPS a few months ago w/ a Duralast from AutoZone and it seemed to clear up our issues, but it has probably now failed.
 
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10-4. Hopefully that’s all it is. Feel your pain brother. I love my Jeep but it damn sure pisses me off sometimes🍺🍺
 
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The Service report includes the following dtc's:
p1618;
p2111;
p0522;
p0339;
p0642;
p0309;
p0365;
p0345;

Drove it a few miles home and it runs like shit but doesn't have any active codes.
I'm leaning towards the pedal/throttle position sensor based upon how it seems to be responding poorly to the actual pedal position.
If I increase RPM very slow and steady, it seems fine, but if I put any foot into it, the thing stumbles and acts like a misfire until finally leveling out.
I wasn't able to drive it long enough to get the temps up.

Probably due for a new set of plugs w/ the next oil change (or sooner).
I'll scan for codes and see what my reader shows.
 
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Finally got some time to dig into this.
Checked for codes and all were clear. Ran the advanced check and it too, came up clear.
Drove it around the block.
It ran for shit, stumbling, hesitating, and misfiring.
Threw a code too... p0305 Misfire on cyl #5.
That's the only code it threw, so I'm thinking that the MOPAR CPS MAY have resolved the others.

My next step is new plugs and coils.
 
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tJKrider said:
Any chance that you got a tank of bad gas? Maybe throw in some Heet and see if that helps with the driveability.
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I wondered that initially too, and since the light was on (wife was driving it when it acted up), I put a full tank in from the same place that I get gas for the Harley… it got me home, but didn’t help.
 
Before u do anything walk out into the garage with your favorite beverage, hook up on your loudest speakers, and play ( White Horse) by Chris Stapleton). Then immediately play (Who made who) by AC/DC. Then grab your 10mm and have fun🍺🍺
 
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I’m already partaking in the garage, and of course I looked under the hood to get eyes on what’s going in there.
I discovered that the Class-A Certified Technician working on my Jeep skipped the day where they taught about reattaching the factory engine cover and closing the lids of everything you open.
The lid on my accessory fuse panel was opened, turned 180*, then left unsealed. Rookie move, not Class A. 🤦‍♂️😂
How could they have missed recommending plugs at this mileage?
I probably would have done that! 😂😂😂
Another rookie move! 🤦‍♂️😂
I don’t think it’ll be all that bad.
At least it’s on the top and not underneath the thing!

Parts will be here next week and it should keep me out of trouble for a couple nights.
 
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tJKrider said:
Seems odd. Why not use known good parts? They're essentially charging twice the labor (at least) to remove from a "good Jeep" to install in yours to test. And then what, reinstall back into the donor vehicle?? Total BS.
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One thing they mention is that the "sensor problem" might not be a sensor. It could be wiring, and that would not be resolved by swapping out sensors. The idea seems like a reasonable diagnostic, but the dealer rates are commonly higher.
 
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