Lighting bolt and loss of power

I’m not with the vehicle, so no code pull or reset can be done. It’s being towed to the dealer and they’ll likely rape me to do nothing.
I can’t convince my wife to try and drive it home, so it it what it is.
I literally don’t have the energy or finances to fight with this thing any longer.
 
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WestCoastDan said:
Can’t catch a break with this damned JKU. Wife was driving and the lightning bolt indicator started flashing and sudden loss of power.
Thankfully she’s off the freeway.
I’m done with this money pit.
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Depending on which state you hang out in, and probably how long you have had the vehicle and problem with it, there maybe a lemon law that can help you. As and side, but related question, did you or your wife ever notice whether the engine warmed up properly?
 
We bought this turd in March of 2022 used.
It had a lot of miles but it was meticulous and didn't have any carfax issues, etc.

Within the first 3 months, we had to repair the timing chain, right cam, etc. to fix the 3.6L tick.
Then small, petty shit that was OK with because it was the vehicle that she wanted and I liked it.

It's at the dealer now and I don't know how long before they'll get a look at at it.
I almost don't want to know.

I am pissed that I sold my '08 R/T Charger though.
 
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WestCoastDan said:
We bought this turd in March of 2022 used.
It had a lot of miles but it was meticulous and didn't have any carfax issues, etc.

Within the first 3 months, we had to repair the timing chain, right cam, etc. to fix the 3.6L tick.
Then small, petty shit that was OK with because it was the vehicle that she wanted and I liked it.

It's at the dealer now and I don't know how long before they'll get a look at at it.
I almost don't want to know.

I am pissed that I sold my '08 R/T Charger though.
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I still growl when I think about what my '68 Fastback Mustang would be worth now. It had the 390 cu in big block V-8. Factory four on the floor.
 
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The list of cars for me that I should have kept would be too painful to add up.
'68 Camaro
'73 Z28
'53 Triumph 650 Thunderbird
'74 Alfa Spider
'77 Alfa Spider
'74 Porsche 911
'66 Malibu convertible
'84 Porsche Carrera

None were at their peak when I sold them - my luck.
Many would have pulled in 5-10X what I got for them if sold today.
 
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My first car- Triumph TR6; kept it not too long.
1972 Chevy Malibu SS (paid $2400, now worth minimum $45k)
1969 Camaro w/396
1971 Ford Torino GT w/351 Cleveland, shaker hood and Muncie 4 spd factory

Everything after that was meh....... but each one of those is now worth a fortune. And my wife is completely onboard with us finding another muscle car as long as it's a convertible.
 
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For me, "the one that got away" is two cars.
A '69 RS/SS Camaro that I saved from the crusher. Bought it when I was 14 for like $50. It had no engine. No transmission. No glass. No interior. No front fenders or hood. It was destroyed at Bandimere. By then it was running mid-8's at around 165.
A right hand drive '69 Jaguar E-type convertible. I had just bought a new Fox body Mustang and didn't have any money so I had to pass. In hindsight, I should have sold the Mustang, a kidney, and offered them my soul to sweeten the deal.
Not to mention all the '70-'71 Cudas, Mustangs, Chevelles, etc that were sitting in dealer lots when I was young.
 
tJKrider said:
You just reminded me of the movie "Corvette Summer" where the protagonist did the same:

"For a project in his shop class, Kenny rescues a 1973 Chevrolet Corvette Stingray from inside an operating car crusher in a scrapyard"
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That movie was terrible. I loved it. Of course, I don't think you'll find many Corvettes going to the crusher. Mostly because of a lack of metal to crush...
Salvage yard rescues are still a great way to get a project car. The Roadkill guys do it all the time.
 
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Heh, 17 year old me walked into Chrysler dealership in 1975 and looked at a ‘69 Hemi charger for the princely sum of $2200. Dad shot that deal down right now. lol Sales guy fired it up for me to hear the swan song.

OTOH, I did own and drive a ‘66 Chevelle SS396/375 hp 4 speed for a year. And a ‘72 Chevelle with a Booth/Arons 327 swapped in by me. There were other memorable street cars.
 
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Well, the dealer provided me w/ a diagnosis (sort of) today.
They did not provide me with the list of codes, but I will ask for them.

They claim these 11 issues need to be addressed:
1- Diagnostic for CEL: 5V sensor shorts when hot.
They literally don't know WHICH sensor, so their recommendation is: "Need to swap out sensors one at a time from a known good Jeep to eliminate possible causes of short. Vehicle has 6+ sensors that can cause this issue along w/ wiring harness & PCM."
Cost of #1: $1,350 - POSSIBLE, but how much could it possibly cost to simply replace all of the suspect sensors instead of diagnosing them one-by one through substitution? BTW, I replaced the crankshaft position sensor in October. It was a Duralast sensor (lifetime warranty), and it resolved the code and rough idle, but it could have failed.

2- Cabin air filter: HORSE SHIT. I replaced it less than 1 year ago and I won't pay the dealer to do this.
Cost of #2: $79.95 - DENIED

3- Engine Air Filter: HORSE SHIT. Also replaced less than 1 year ago and I won't pay the dealer to do this.
Cost of #3: $99.95 - DENIED

4- Brake Flush: Meh... It has a lot of miles and it has probably never been flushed.
Cost of #4: $279.95 - POSSIBLE, but definitely over-priced at the dealership, ESPECIALLY if done in conjunction w/ #5 & #6.
BTW, I wouldn't do this UNLESS I was also doing pads & rotors at the same time.

5- Brake job (front): Pads found to be at or under 3mm. Recommend replacing or resurfacing the rotors.
Cost of #5: $639.95 - DENIED (Not a service to have done at the dealership)

6- Brake Job (rear): Pads found to be at or under 3mm. Recommend replacing or resurfacing the rotors.
Cost of #6: $660.70 - DENIED (Not a service to have done at the dealership)

7- Complete Fuel System Service: "Appears overdue". HTF can they say a service like this "APPEARS OVERDUE"... what can they SEE? :ROFLMAO:
Cost of #7: $370 - DENIED; What does this even entail (besides a new fuel filter) unless they are replacing failed parts?

8- Right Rear Axle Seal: "Leaking and requires replacement and reseal to resolve concern."
Cost of #8: $865.86 - Wait for it...

9- Differential Flush (front): "Appears overdue"
Cost of #9: $269.95 - I expected this expense this year, but my local oil change place can do it for about half.

10- Differential Flush (rear): "Appears overdue"
Cost of #10: $269.95 - See #8. I didn't see any leaks, but if it is leaking, why is this not MUCH cheaper IF done while repairing the axle seal? If the axle seal isn't really leaking, my local oil change place can do this for about half.

11- Transfer Case Service: "Appears overdue"
Cost of #11: $209.95 - I expected this expense this year, but my local oil change place can do it for about half.


In short, I don't see us having anything other than possibly #1 done at the dealership, but I feel like this is WAY too much $$ to swap out parts until they find the problem.

Any insight or criticism of the above is appreciated.
 
Military term - BOHICA!

They’re piling on totally unrelated work to a needed repair job. Tell them to go reproduce themselves and get your vehicle outta there, then find a reputable independent Jeep repair shop.

$1350 is about 8 hours labor and won’t include the part that failed. Worst case, start by swapping the Duralast CPS for an oem version.
 
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WestCoastDan said:
5- Brake job (front): Pads found to be at or under 3mm. Recommend replacing or resurfacing the rotors.
Cost of #5: $639.95 - DENIED (Not a service to have done at the dealership)

6- Brake Job (rear): Pads found to be at or under 3mm. Recommend replacing or resurfacing the rotors.
Cost of #6: $660.70 - DENIED (Not a service to have done at the dealership)
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Agree. My son just had front and rears done at Tuffy for a bit over half of that with warranty (don't recall the terms but it was longer than I anticipated). I would have no problem recommending them over the dealer. Note - their new rotor price wasn't much more than the resurface
 
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Total horsesh$$. 90% of that work you can do yourself as needed. Once you get the codes that should steer u in the right direction. Agree with Snowbird Tom on the sensors. If it is electrical stay with Mopar. You can definitely figure this one out with tools and🍺🍺. Good luck brother
 
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