Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler JK radiators

JKU Hemi Swap - Reference Guide & Swap Info

pc1p

JK Enthusiast
Supporting Member
Joined
Oct 2, 2024
Messages
192
Location
Hills of NE Pennsylvania
Introduction & Hemi Basics
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If anyone has ever spent time on the Wrangler TJ Forum, you may have seen my Gen III Hemi swap info there. I figured since I'm going through the work on my JKU, that it just makes sense to do that here as well. There are plenty of YouTube videos, some done by vendors selling swap parts (such as Jeep Speed Shop, which is who I'm primarily sourcing my part from), and some done by people trying to help others out.

Some worthwhile videos to check out:
JKB Off-Road: https://www.youtube.com/@JKB_OFFROAD_olllllllo
JK Gear and Gadgets: https://www.youtube.com/@JKGearandGadgets
Jeep Speed Shop: https://www.youtube.com/@jeepspeedshop

While I love YouTube videos, and I may even make a few of my own in those instances where I think other videos may fall short, I think there's a lot to be said of having a step-by-step forum post that can be referenced, corrected, and added to as needed. I'll be building this thread out as I go through my swap, where I'll be putting a 5.7L VVT LX Hemi and 8HP70 into my 2008 JKU. I'll have some info about the Hemi swap in My Build Thread, but the bulk of the technical information, references, and more, will be saved here for future easy reference by myself and by anyone else who needs it.

If there's something I glossed over or something you want expanded up, just let me know!

What is a Hemi?
The Gen III Hemi ("gen three", or generation three), is, as the name would suggest, the third iteration of the Mopar Hemi engine. In 2002, the Gen III Hemi was debuted in the Ram 2500/3500 pickup line, followed by the Ram 1500's in 2003. It boasted 345 hp and 375 lb-ft of torque and was immediately recognized as an excellent engine platform (it has made the "Ward's 10 Best Engine" list six times). By 2005, the 5.7L Hemi was available in pickup trucks as well as the LX-series of Chrysler-family cars.


Some say that the Gen III Hemi, commonly short-handed as the "G3" to help differentiate it from the Gen-III GM motors, is not a "true" Hemi since it doesn't have a traditional hemispherical head design. These people usually eat their own boogers and think that boys shouldn't be allowed to play with dolls. Ignore them, you don't need that negativity in your life... :)

Much like the GM and Ford counterparts, the Gen III Hemis took advantage of engineering and computer-aided design advancements. As a result, the Gen III retains a traditional push-rod orientation but with significant flow improvements over the previous Gen II V8 engines (such as the Magnum).
In 2009, the 5.7L Hemi received some major internal changes and an even larger use of technology. The block was new, the crank was upgraded, the cylinder heads were better and the cam got a tad more aggressive - all while sporting better power and economy. The 5.7L Ram engine - known as the "Eagle 5.7" was now rated at an honest 390 hp and 407 ft-lb of torque. Some people consider the 2009+ engines to be the "Gen IV Hemi", but this naming convention has not caught on. Most people simply refer to them as the "VVT engines".

The biggest change was the use of VCT - variable cam timing. The ECM can now vary the valve opening to optimize flow throughout the RPM range. The use of MDS - or multi-displacement system technology was continued but improved upon and matched with the VCT for significant gains in economy. It isn't uncommon for swapped rigs to push 18 MPG in Jeeps (when coupled with the Dodge transmissions).

Later Eagle updates also included a "SRV" (short runner valve), which is essentially part of the Hemi "active intake". This valve provides a bypass for incoming air and moves it from the plenum directly to the cylinder heads. The shorter route allows for more power at higher RPMs while allowing the nice long, wide torque curves of a traditional long runner.

What Hemi Should I Swap?
While some older JKU Hemi swaps indeed utilized earlier, non-VVT Hemi swaps, this has all but stopped. The VVT engines make more power, are easier to find, and are cheaper due to availability. There's no compelling reason to use a non-Eagle/VVT Hemi in a JKU swap.

That said, there are some considerations to be made for what platform you got your donor from. The donors are usually broken up into car/SUV, often referred to as the 'LX-platform" motors (not to be confused with LSx), and "truck-VVT" motors. Internally, all the engines are the same. The differences come on the exterior.

The 5.7L truck engines are often easier to find, and many include an 8HP70 if you're considering that swap as well. The truck engines have physically longer front end accessory drives (FEAD). Essentially, the water pump, power steering pump, A/C compressor, etc. all stick out further from the timing cover than car/SUV FEADs do. This means you are unable to run your OEM Jeep fan. You need to either run a manual fan, or go with the common "Camaro fan" (which is thinner profile than the Jeep fans).

LX (car/SUV) engines can reuse your OEM fan. 6.4L engines (from car or truck) must move the air cleaner to the driver side fender due to how the intakes are shaped on both. Any and all engines can be made to work, you may just need some different parts to make it all work together (more on this below).
 
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Foreword – Considerations & Project Planning
Why Hemi?
One of the first things I get asked by folks is "why a Hemi?". One of the first things Jason, the person I just sold my old 3.8L to, asked me was "why not an LS?". It's a good question that for me, has a really simple answer: integration.

IMG_0865.JPG

[2010 5.7L Eagle Hemi that I originally bought but ended up having a chewed up cam lobe... more on that later]

The LS is a great motor and has certainly helped paved the way for "modern HP" in many classics and swap candidates. That said, the LS in a JKU has a lot of headaches. Even @rockvegas555 has said that if he were to do another V8 swap, that it would likely be a Hemi, and he's got a 6.2L LS3 with 525 horsepower and 486 lb.-ft. of torque!

The Hemi is natively part of the Chrysler ecosystem and already uses shared CAN protocols, which are easily integrated with the OEM TIPM, and offers OEM-functionality with things like cruise control, EVIC, stability/ABS control, A/C request logic, cooling fan logic, and OBD-II. Compared to an LS swap, you often need to bypass several functions, often have to manually control A/C, may or may not have functioning cruise control, and more.

Aside from some of the integration headaches, the Hemi fits well (in particular the 2009+ VVT) and now has the option of the 8HP70/75 transmissions. With the exception of the motor mounts, a modern Hemi swap can be done with nearly 100% OEM, off-the-shelf Mopar parts.

Why 8HP70?
If you want the Jeep to feel modern, fast, strong, and factory V8-correct, the 8HP70 wins everywhere except cost and wiring complexity. While you can use the NAG1 if your JKU is equipped with one, it’s older, weaker, and has fewer gears, making it less ideal for heavy rigs pushing big tires.

IMG_1267.jpeg

[A low mile, 2019 8HP70 originally sourced from LQK with TC]

The Hemi-era 8-speed autos are incredibly strong, shift fast, and offer excellent on-road and off-road drivability thanks to well thought out gear ratios. The fact that they're offered in Ram 1500s for a number of years now makes them readily available. These can be picked up cheaply from nearly any parts recycler or yard. I only paid $500 for the one above and this isn't an uncommon find.

For me, while there is an added expense and wiring integration is a bit more involved, the advantages far outweigh the small expense and hassle. Again, going back to my point above, getting 3 additional gears, with OEM integration, that runs cooler, offers better engine braking, and gives lower cruise RPMs while also a better 1st gear ratio is, for all intents and purposes, a decision that makes itself.

Intended Use & Needs
When I started the JKU project, I had a modest, but critical list of criteria:
  • Overbuilt - always a long-time build approach, regardless of purpose, mainly because "I have to drive this home"
  • Reliable - if I am not confident enough to drive the Jeep across the country to Moab, I'm doing something wrong
  • Street friendly handling/manners - for sanity and in case the Mrs. needs to drive it for any reason
  • Ability to keep the Jeep "mostly" inspection friendly - PA requires annual "safety inspections"
The Hemi swap fits well into my overall needs and vision - a reliable, daily driver than can a tough weekend warrior.
EC5EF2D5-3CBC-4C3F-A833-1FFE165E9D74.png

[A cartoon rendering of an actual photo of my JKU, with some artistic tweaks made]

More importantly, it's something I will enjoy driving, which I can honestly say that with the 3.8L, was not the case. While the new axles I just built and installed in my daughter's Islander have helped, driving a rig around the hills of NEPA gets exhausting. The engine is always struggling and the transmission is constantly searching for gears on hills. Throw in the fact that it barely has enough power to maintain 65 mph while towing a small utility trailer is simply not something I would deal with for long.

Budget scope
I am pretty fortunate in that I don't have a budget limit for this build. This does not mean that I'll be going full blown crazy, but I'm not making decisions on cost, but rather of value. That said, I will be keeping track of everything and will share the total when all is said and done.

Time expectations
Right now, I'm driving my daughter's Islander around and will do so until my project is done. She's coming back from college for the summer in mid-May, so that seems like my natural target completion date, though I would prefer to have it done much, much earlier. I'm targeting a first-drive sometime in mid-March. This will give me a few weeks to work out the kinks and will be late enough into winter/early spring that weather should hopefully not be too problematic should I need to do anything outside.
 
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Full Parts List + Part Numbers

Todd at JSS has lots of BOM sheets on his site and updates them periodically. If you're doing anything but a LX-based engine and 8HP70 swap, you should head on over to his home page and find the BOM you need.


6.4L/5.7L 8 speed build sheet - Based 2009-2010 Grand Cherokee 5.7L (Short water pump)

Part Description

Part Number

Category

Quantity

Notes

TX3A wiring for the Camaro Fan

Cooling

1

2-8296 sensor for the Camaro Fan

Cooling

1

Camaro Fan 84100128

Cooling

1

Ground Strap

56043078AD

Engine

1

Use strap from 2010 VVT Truck Motor

Engine Mount Bolts

06104214AA

Engine

8

For use with Weld-in Mounts, Bolt Hex Flange Head M10 x 1.50 x 20.00

Engine Mount to Frame Bolts

06508081AA

Engine

2

For use with Weld-in Mounts, Bolt Hex Flange Head M12 x 1.75 x 150.00

Engine Mount to Frame Nuts

6502585

Engine

2

For use with Weld-in Mounts

Engine Mount WK, Passenger Side

52090304AG

Engine

1

For use with Weld-in Mounts, Fits 05-10 Jeep SUV 5.7L-Gas

Engine Mount WK Driver Side

52090305AG

Engine

1

For use with Weld-in Mounts, Fits 05-10 Jeep SUV 5.7L-Gas

Air Intake Hose

5037774AB

Engine

1

Fitment 2007-2010 Jeep Grand Cherokee 8 Cyl 6.1L, ordered Airraid Tube

Dowel pins

1122532

Engine

2

New Motors only

Oil filter bolts

6102041AA

Engine

3

Part of Mopar Performance 77072447 Kit

Oil filter adapter o-ring

53021661AA

Engine

1

Part of Mopar Performance 77072447 Kit

Oil filter 45° Adapter

53013680AD

Engine

1

Part of Mopar Performance 77072447 Kit

Oil Filter

4884899

Engine

1

Part of Mopar Performance 77072447 Kit

Oil pan pick-up

53021522BD

Engine

1

Part of Mopar Performance 77072450AB Kit

Oil pan pick up bolt with stud

6506333AA

Engine

1

Part of Mopar Performance 77072450AB Kit

Oil pickup tube nut

6502756

Engine

1

Part of Mopar Performance 77072450AB Kit

Engine Oil dipstick

53021858AD

Engine

1

Part of Mopar Performance 77072450AB Kit

Engine Oil dipstick tube

53021322AF

Engine

1

Part of Mopar Performance 77072450AB Kit

Engine Oil dipstick tube O-ring

53021144AA

Engine

1

Part of Mopar Performance 77072450AB Kit

Main bearing cap bolt

6506272AA

Engine

1

Part of Mopar Performance 77072450AB Kit

Oil Pan windage tray

53021568AE

Engine

1

Part of Mopar Performance 77072450AB Kit

Oil Pan, 5.7L Truck Oil pan

53021334AF

Engine

1

Part of Mopar Performance 77072450AB Kit

Oil Pan Bolts

6508065AA

Engine

19

Part of Mopar Performance 77072450AB Kit

Oil Pan studs

6508066AA

Engine

3

Part of Mopar Performance 77072450AB Kit

Lower Radiator Hose

Napa 7390

Engine

1

Upper Radiator Hose

Napa 7369

Engine

1

Pulley, Crank 5.7L LX

53022412AA

Engine

1

Dorman 594-440

Water pump 5.7L LX CP6698

53022095AF

Engine

1

Heater Coolant Tube, Outlet

4892346AD

Engine

1

Heater Coolant Tube, Inlet

4892345AF

Engine

1

Engine Belt

53013676AC

Engine

1

Thermostat Housing

53021536AC

Engine

1

Throttle body bolts

6509302AA

Engine

4

Power Steering Hose

Gates 361850

Engine

1

Manifold to Down pipe Bolts

6104426AA

Exhaust

4

Manifold Flag Nuts

6503231

Exhaust

4

Gasket, Exhaust, LH

53032965AF

Exhaust

1

Gasket, Exhaust, RH

53032966AF

Exhaust

1

Manifold, Exhaust, RH Discontinued

53013858AD

Exhaust

1

Manifold, Exhaust, LH Discontinued

53013857AD

Exhaust

1

Heat Shield, Exhaust

53032968AD

Exhaust

2

Double ended exhaust stud

6509544

Exhaust

8

Exhaust manifold heat shield nuts

6505316AA

Exhaust

8

Exhaust manifold bolts

6507746AA

Exhaust

10

Tensioner pulley bolt

6102381AA

FEAD

1

Included in Mopar 77072445 FEAD

Idler Pulley

04891720AA

FEAD

1

Included in Mopar 77072445 FEAD

Belt Tensioner

04861660AA

FEAD

1

Included in Mopar 77072445 FEAD

Ac Compressor Reuse 3.8L Jeep Compressor

FEAD

1

Alternator 5.7L LX

56044380AJ

FEAD

1

Fitment 2007-2010 Jeep SUVs with OEM 5.7L Hemi

Alternator Bolt

6504344

FEAD

1

Alternator Bolt

6101985

FEAD

1

Steering Pump

5290778AA

FEAD

1

Using PSC Pump

Power Steering Pulley

FEAD

1

Using PSC Pump

Power Steering Pump Bolts

6102184AA

FEAD

3

Using PSC Pump

Cover, 6.4 engine, RH

5038380AD

Misc

1

Cover, 6.4 engine, LH

5038381AD

Misc

1

02 Sensors (4 required for 2007-2018)

56029049AA

Sensors

4

Use only Mopar Sensors

Oil Temp Sensor

5149008AA

Sensors

1

Crank sensor for 2013+ engines

5149230AA

Sensors

1

Transmission Intermediate Plate

52104344AA

Transmission

1

Transmission cooler lines JL 392

68481147AE

Transmission

1

Transmission Cooler JL 392

68481176AA

Transmission

1

Transmission to Engine Bolts

6101985

Transmission

8

Transmission to Engine Studs

6512399AA

Transmission

2

Transmission cooler fittings

68489743AA

Transmission

2

For all 8-speed transmissions

Transmission mount to adapter

68147344AA

Transmission

1

For all 8-speed transmissions

Structural Cover

53021491AA

Transmission

1

Transmission Flex Plate Backing Place

4736613AA

Transmission

1

For all 8-speed transmissions

Transmission Flex Plate

4752574AB

Transmission

1

For all 8-speed transmissions

Transmission Crank Pilot Sleeve

4736283AA

Transmission

1

For all pre-2017 torque converters with 1.334" snout

Transmission pan JT, steel

68408606AB

Transmission

1
 
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3.8L & Transmission Removal
Best practices

Since I'm doing my Hemi swap right after doing my D60/14B swap, my undercarriage was already fairly clean. Even still, I gave it a second blast of Simple Clean and hot pressure water before tackling the engine and trans removal. Remember, more often than not, an ounce of preparation prevents a ton of headache. Spend the time to get things cleaned, and preventing dirt, oil, and grim from falling on your face makes crawling under a rig much more pleasant.

IMG_5490.JPG

[Weather can turn quick here in NEPA, so I power washed the Jeep as soon as I was able to wheel the rig back outside following the axle swaps]

I'm sure there are a million and one different ways people have done this, so I'll simply focus on what I did. Since I was snatching both the engine + trans together, I opted to remove my entire front radiator support before attempting to do anything else. Doing so allowed me keep the cherry picker much lower than I would have otherwise, which adds to the safety factor, while also allowing me to do this inside my garage (it was in the 40°s out there!).

There's no big secret in removing your 3.8L. Make sure you get your A/C system evacuated prior to starting the work, and then it's just a matter of draining the engine and transmission oils, then draining the coolant, followed by unhooking everything attached to the radiator and condenser.

IMG_6080.JPG

[Draining the radiator via the petcock at the front, passenger side of the radiator]

After all fluids are drained, you disconnect the wiring connected to and around the grill support, securing the wires out of the way as you go. If you have a lot of grit and grim on the connectors, I found that a quick squirt of WD-40 helps loosen things up enough to make removal much easier (and less likely to damage the connector). There are a number of "cam" style connectors. They're all different but follow the same basic order of operations - you depress the safety interlock (often near or just under the "handle" of the cam), then you slowly and smoothly rotate the cam away from the connector. Doing so pushes the connectors apart and allows for full disconnect.

With everything drained, you can now remove the radiator/condenser as a single unit. You'll have to disconnect your transmission cooler lines from the factory cooler, which means you'll likely have some spills to deal with even with good catch pan placement. Use rubber or silicon caps, as well as metal drip pans and cardboard to keep your shop tidy. It's the small things, like having ways to quickly and efficiently deal with spills and drips, that make these steps go much smoother and overall make the process much less of a headache. Plus, with quick clean-up, you won't have to worry about lying in an old oil spot on your floor when you're putting this all back together.

IMG_6082.JPG

[Fluids drained and radiator support removed]

With the radiator and condenser out, you can unbolt your radiator support and set it aside. Now that the front end components are cleared out of the way, you'll have lots of easier access to the rest of the parts that need to be removed. My driveshafts were already off, so next up for me was the t-case. The nuts at the top are a pain in the a$$ to get to. Thankfully I removed the transmission shifter some time ago (since I will be installing an OEM Dodge Challenger shifter for the 8HP70), which allowed me to reach down through the hole in the transmission tunnel to get to them easily. You may need to drop your driveline down some to get to the top nuts, depending on what you're doing for your swap.

When removed, set the t-case aside someplace safe and out of your way. With those items out of the way, you'll need to start removing the other stuff attached to the engine: exhaust collector to manifolds (I left the manifolds on the engine as they gave a good place to throw a chain around!), TIPM, battery, heater hoses, etc. Depending on the condition of your rig, you may want to hit many of these connector points with some WD-40 or penetrating fluid ahead of time.

You'll have to disconnect some of the large engine harness connectors at the firewall, but the harness itself can stay on the engine. I did remove the starter from the engine before removing, only because I was worried that it would get hung up during the removal on the frame mounts, but it appears that this was unnecessary as that section clears nicely.

IMG_6089.JPG

[Me being not so limber and nimble, strapping the trans to cherry picker]

At this point, I used a scissor-style transmission jack under the transmission pan, and removed the transmission crossmember. There's really not much left once you get to this point. Run your hands back and around places as you start to lift the engine out to make sure you're not forgetting something. Take your time and ideally have a helper with you. An extra set of eyes really has an advantage, though you can 100% do this safely if you take your time and don't rush things. Once lifted, never put any part of your body below the engine or transmission.

Tips
I found it much easier to get the 3.8L out by removing the driver-side motor mount from the engine block. This let me slide the engine and trans forward, giving me lots of space at the firewall and trans hump. With the mount still bolted to the engine, you'll have to lift the engine over both of the engine mounts on the frame rail to get it to clear. This makes it very tight when removing the engine and trans together, as the trans wants to constantly get caught on the trans tunnel.

Tools Needed
Aside from the obvious way to lift and remove an engine and trans, you'll only really need basic hand tools for most of this. I can't think of anything off the top of my head that needed something special I had in the toolbox.

The one item some people may not have would be a fuel-line disconnect tool. I've had this AutoZone one for over a decade now and it worked perfectly fine. It also worked for the trans cooler lines.
Screenshot 2025-11-17 123130.jpg

[Fuel and trans metal line disconnect pliers]

Weight/Balance Notes
You'll be lifting out ~600 lbs of engine and trans, so overall balance and where you lift can be a safety hazard if not done correctly. I used some heavy duty chain that I made "loops" with around each of the exhaust manifolds. I used the transmission jack to support the transmission pan as we slide the engine and trans out together. Once I had enough clearance, I threw a ratchet strap around the transmission (between the back of the pan and 4wd extension) and connected that the main eye hook on the cherry picker. I took out the slack as space made it available, which helps "lift" the rear of the transmission. This made clearing the crossmember at the front of the frame much easier.

IMG_6092.JPG

[Leo helping me slide the engine back and I work the ratchet strap]

What to save vs throw out
Item's you'll 100% want to save:
  • EVAP Purge solenoid (near your battery box)
  • EVAP Purge hoses
  • A/C compressor
  • A/C lines
  • Fuel Lines
  • t-case to trans nuts
The rule of thumb her is to save everything until you know otherwise. That said, I've already purged a few items I know I'll not be reusing, like the OEM airbox, air tube, etc.

Things to Photograph / Label
Honestly there isn't a whole lot of stuff you're going to reuse and when things go back together, it should seem fairly intuitive. That said, a few small zip-lock bags and a Sharpie is always a good idea.
 
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Frame & Engine Bay Prep
  • Motor mounts
  • Crossmember mods
  • Clocking considerations
  • Steering clearance
  • Exhaust prep
  • Skid plates
  • Heat shielding
  • Paint/anti-rust work
 
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Engine Prep (5.7 Hemi)
Refresh items

You have a few options when it comes to sourcing an engine. You can buy a new crate motor. Mopar stopped making them a while ago but they're still in stock at nearly every Mopar online retailer. They not only have 345 (5.7L) crate engines, but also 6.4L, and supercharged options. All crate engine options are LX-based, meaning they will need some changes made to them in order to fit into a JKU (see below).
IMG_6028.JPG

[My 345 Mopar Performance Crate Motor, with torn apart 2010 VVT block and cylinder heads in the background on the floor]

If you happen to get a low-mile donor, you may not need to do anything. However, there are some known hemi issues that may be worthwhile to address now. The biggest issue plaguing Hemis, especially ones that have counterintuitively been driven softly or allowed to idle for long amounts of time, is the issue with the cams getting chewed up by failed lifters.

IMG_5987.JPEG

[Chewed cam lobe, third from left]

This very issue happened to the donor engine I originally purchased. What generally happens is that oil pressure is low, either due to poor maintenance, excessive idling, long, sustained stretched of low oil pressure (like say cruising for hours upon hours in hot weather with the engine only turning 1300-1600 rpm), and any combination of the three. When oil pressure is low, the needle bearings inside the rollers of the lifters get starved or clogged/gummed up. Once they do that, they stop spinning. As the cam now acts like a flat-tappet cam, you get the infamous "Hemi tick".

IMG_5976.JPG

The constant beating of the lobe loosens and eventually destroys the needle bearings inside the roller, causing it to eventually get pushed back into the lifter body. Once there is no longer a place for the roller to move, the roller gets worn down, wearing not only the roller itself, but also the came lobe. If you catch the tick early, you can usually just swap the cam out for a new one, change the lifters, and you're good to go (most people also swap in a new oil pump and timing chain as well).

Some people take it a step further and completely eliminate the Multi-Displacement System (MDS). The MDS is what Chrysler uses to deactivate some of the cylinders of your engine, effectively turning your V8 into a 4-cylinder, saving fuel when cruising at steady speeds. Having driven in many Hemi Ram 1500's, I can confirm that the fuel savings are indeed there with MDS activated. On a drive from Houston to Phoenix one time, I averaged ~22 mpg with the A/C blasting the entire time, all while driving 80 mph across I-10.

While it's not 100% certain, it does appear that MDS equipped vehicles do experience lifter failure more often than non-MDS vehicles. Many companies, including Melling, make a "MSD Delete" kit, which includes all the parts you need to remove the MDS components from your vehicle. Note that the MDS delete will require reprogramming of your ECM (which in the case of most swaps, is automatically done).


With the exception of a catastrophic failure, the Hemi engines wear very well. In the block above, even with the chewed up cam lobe, the cam bearings looked absolutely fine, and the cylinder walls still have the factory cross-hatching on it. If you find a block with a good cam, you can generally feel safe doing the MDS delete and installing a fresh set of gaskets, knowing that doing so will provide you with reliable service life.

Oil Pans
Truck engines are rear-sump; LX platforms are front/center sump. You'll need a rear sump pan, plus the corresponding pick up tube and windage tray.

The easiest option is to buy the Mopar Performance Rear Sump Kit, PN 77072450AB. However, these are getting harder to find (though with the reintroduction of the Hemi by Stellantis, may be easier soon!)

Here are the PNs for individual parts, all of which are easily sourced at your local Mopar dealer or online.

Oil pan pick-up53021522BD
Oil pan pick up bolt with stud6506333AA
Oil pickup tube nut6502756
Engine Oil dipstick53021858AD
Engine Oil dipstick tube 53021322AF
Engine Oil dipstick tube O-ring 53021144AA
Main bearing cap bolt6506272AA
Oil Pan windage tray 53021568AE
Oil Pan, 5.7L Truck Oil pan53021334AF
Oil Pan Bolts 6508065AA
Oil Pan studs6508066AA

Accessory Drive Differences
TBD

JK power steering compatibility
TBD
 
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Transmission Prep (8HP70)
  • Cooler routing
  • Shifter/linkage options
  • TCM considerations
  • Adapter choices (if using Atlas later)
  • Output shaft options
  • Driveshaft lengths
 
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Engine & Transmission Installation
  • Mounting
  • Best order of operations
  • Torque notes
  • Clearance checks
  • Things to test before final tightening
  • Driveshaft details
 
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Wiring, CANBUS, & Electronics
  • CANBUS integration
  • PCM choice & placement
  • Hemi ECU programming
  • JK TIPM compatibility
  • OBD2 retention
  • Sensor solutions
  • Radiator fans + controls
 
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Cooling, Fuel, Exhaust Systems
  • Radiator & hoses
  • Fan systems
  • Fuel pump & line conversions
  • Exhaust manifolds/headers
  • Y-pipe and O₂ sensor placement
 
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First Start, Tuning, Troubleshooting
  • First-start checklist
  • Common Hemi swap codes
  • Idle control issues
  • Gear ratio tuning
  • Transmission behavior
  • How the Jeep behaves with current gearing, tire size, and the 8HP70
 
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Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler JK radiators