Chirp Goes Away Pushing Clutch Pedal

Jackmove

Jackmove

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source: https://www.autozone.com/drivetrain/clutch-set?searchText=Clutch+kit
If you encounter these types of symptoms, you can test your own clutch by idling the car in neutral with the parking brake set. If there is a growling noise when the pedal is not pushed in, you likely have a problem with your transmission. If pushing the pedal results in a chirping noise, the culprit is likely the throw-out or release bearing. A squealing noise indicates something is wrong with the pilot bearing. A manual transmission that slips while driving indicates a worn disc.
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I was reading about these transmission symptoms and they don't really match my scenario; they're the opposite. I have a consistent chirp noise in neutral that goes away when the clutch pedal is pressed. I can hear the same noise in all gears (though faintly) when the clutch is not pressed in. I've crawled under the car and it's definitely coming from the transmission area.

Initially, I thought the noise was from my pulleys and replaced the idlers. They were worn, but replacing them didn't fix the noise. While diagnosing, I noticed putting any pressure on the clutch pedal silences the chirp.

There's no grinding, growling, or slipping. The transmission otherwise seems to shift fine. It's just an obnoxious noise. Should I try to replace the slave cylinder? Does anyone know which bearing might be the culprit? The book says a clutch job is six hours, so I'm guessing 10 hours in the driveway. Local trans shop wants $1600. Dealership wants $3000.

I have a '17 Wrangler JKU, 76000 miles.
 
The Haynes manual suggests that the release bearing would be the issue if I heard the noise when pressing the clutch pedal. In my situation, the noise goes away when I press the pedal.

Anyway, if it requires removing the exhaust and dropping the trans, I'm debating letting it go a bit longer until it starts howling (or fails outright).

Has anyone used the Centerforce clutch kits? Should I just use one from Autozone?
 
Jackmove said:
The Haynes manual suggests that the release bearing would be the issue if I heard the noise when pressing the clutch pedal. In my situation, the noise goes away when I press the pedal.
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It's not an exact science. I'd go for the clutch release bearing too.
Jackmove said:
Anyway, if it requires removing the exhaust and dropping the trans, I'm debating letting it go a bit longer until it starts howling (or fails outright).
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It does.
Jackmove said:
Has anyone used the Centerforce clutch kits? Should I just use one from Autozone?
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Centerforce makes great clutches. There's a reason why you see them on so many high performance engines.
 
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SteveF said:
Your throw-out bearing is bad in your clutch. Consider doing an entire clutch replacement since it will be disassemble anyway.
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I'd absolutely replace everything. It makes no sense to replace one bit on a repair that will require removing so much.

When you're considering brands for the new clutch, I stand by what I said about Centerforce, but you should also add McCloud to the list.
I drive a significantly tinkered with Corvette, when the weather allows. Getting the 800+ HP to the ground (or at least the rear tires - traction is a problem...) is handled by a McCloud Street Twin clutch kit. It's handled some 400 passes at the strip, 8-10 track days, and several 4,000 mile road trips without issue. I don't know what they offer for Jeeps, but they're certainly top notch.
 
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I went with ACT HD clutch kit, and new flywheel. I do not think I could have got a Centerforce at the time. I pilot hard through the gears, no problems. Going out shortly for doughnuts and snow drifting like that new Jeep commercial out now in Canada. Good Times
 
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Luk or Centerforce.

Don't over clutch your Jeep. Too much clutch...things to make it handle high HP like multiple disks etc ... can compromise driveability.

Just say no to AutoZone.

I bought my Luk for my TJ on Amazon.

A pilot bearing puller is also cheap but I've always used white bread and a punch.

Flywheels are usually pretty cheap too. Easier to have all the parts on hand.

I don't know the rear main seal on the 3.6 and 3.8...is it a one piece and now is the time or is it a two piece like the 4.0 and an oil pan and rear bearing block?

-Mac
 
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Here's a link to a video that demonstrates the chirp sound. I've listened to lots of transmission noise videos and none of them sound like this. They're usually rattling garbled noises. This is a high-pitched squeak/chirp that I initially thought was a pulley.

https://imgur.com/a/dAGvOUt

Called some transmission shops. Small transmission shop said $1600. Dealership quoted $3000.

Edit to add: I’m not having any shifting problems and I’ve since changed the transmission fluid. Should I just leave it alone? Or is it worth bringing to the shop?
 
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Any way to rule out that it's not a bad input shaft bearing? The videos I've seen seem more consistent with the noise.

My concern is that I'm going to have to put another transmission in and not a simple clutch kit.

Not trying to be obstinate. I'm just learning.
 
The reason the noise quits when the clutch pedal is pressed your putting pressure on the bearing, that's about the only thing in there that moves that could make any noise. When your pressing the pedal the transmission isn't doing anything because the clutch is released.
 
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There are other possibilities, but the throw out bearing is by far the most likely culprit. And, realistically, you're going to have to pull it apart regardless. Even if you were 100% sure it was an input shaft bearing, you'd still be well advised to replace the throw out bearing and clutch while it's open.
But it's almost certainly the throw out bearing.
 
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