They say to "make hay while the sun is shinning". In my case, it's "wash everything while it's still warm and sunny!"
I thoroughly degreased the frame, engine, trans, t-case, and firewall, then focused my attention on other nooks and crannies, such as in the rear crossmember, behind the rear tire (above that little foam cover thing), and inside every frame and body weep point I could spot. Overall, I spent about 3 hours constantly spraying, degreasing (Simple Clean is the best!), soaking, high-pressure blasting, and repeating.
This of course it to serve multiple purposes. The first is that I want to get some of the rust spots touched up on the inner fenders and fender support areas. Those Bushwhacker flares take up the entirety of the rear hatch area and I want them out as I need that space to start storing items for the Hemi swap. Plus I really want to rip out all the carpet soon, as it is straight gross and makes the garage smelly musty (I'll be going with a BedRug or ArmorLite in spring). The second reason is that I want to coat the frame (inside) with the Eastwood Frame Coating and Rust Encapsulator while the weather permits. While everything is apart and out, there's no better time than with mid 70° days and nice breezes... I would be a fool to pass up on this opportunity.
The final reason: although I've got some axle work to wrap up, as well as some house projects (replacing the 60 year old windows in the basement!), the 3.8L and trans will be getting ripped out in just a few weeks - hopefully by the beginning of November. The good thing about doing the deep clean this weekend is that I'll be gone for a good portion of this week on a work trip, so everything will have ample time to dry. I'm taking some PTO days next week and will spend some time doing this, as well as finalizing the D30/D44 regear.
I'm waiting on an AEV swing-arm "hardware and bushing" kit to arrive from AEV. It includes new bushings (which I won't use) but also new seals and an endcap (which I came to find out that mine was missing). As I wait for those parts (which I need to finalize the position and adjustments), I started to ponder the best way to convert the carrier to a 8x6.5" lug pattern. The AEV carrier comes with studs in the standard JK 5x5" pattern, but is also drilled for a 5x5.5" pattern. The studs just bang out and what you're left with is a fairly stout 1/4" plate.
I ordered a Barnes Tire Carrier Plate, which is drilled for multiple patterns. I'm unsure the best way to make this work, but what first came to mind was to simply weld in some studs to the 5x5" holes on the Barnes plate, and then simply bolt the two pieces together. I could drill out and use a stud at the top-most hole of both the Barnes plate, as well as the AEV plate, further "linking" them together. Unfortunately, the two sets of holes don't align properly and redrilling them out "figure 8" at least one of the AEV plate holes, making it less than ideal. I would also prefer the "pair" of studs to be at the top of the plate, which would allow my Alpine Rear Camera mount to sit in the proper location. I'll figure something out - my 15 hours in the car this coming week will give me something to think about (alongside my Italian and Spanish language lessons of course!).
Speaking of wheels and tire carriers...
I found a set that I'm gonna try out. They're Vision Manx2 in Satin Grey. American's Tire (aka East Coast Discount Tire) had them for $217 a pop and could get them in less than a week. Unlike many of the wheels out there, this doesn't have any machined or clear-coated surfaces, which don't seem to last more than 2 seasons (at best!) of winter driving here in PA. A friend of a friend was in need of some 40"s and had a fresh set of 37" Delium Terra Raider M/Ts. We made the swap and this will keep me going for a while. I'm going to eventually stuff the biggest tire possible in there, with the limitations noted in an earlier post, but for now these will keep the project rolling (plus they'll probably make a great set of winter wheels/tires). With being only a 12.5" wide tire and on 4.5" of backspacing, it's very likely that these will be completely covered by the Bushwhacker Flat Flares as well, eliminating the need to keep the baby rollers around once I'm done with the build.
I saw on an old forum post somewhere where someone talked about what rear track bar fits the 14B with the Artec Apex Truss. They said the "Rubicon Express" TB works, but I've been unable to find one, though I did find what I think was an actual photo of one. It was similar to the Skyjacker JK Rear TB designed for 1.5-3.5" lifts. AutoZone had it for a good price and was able to get it to me in a day (for free!), so I ordered it. You can see in the photo above that the Metalcloak bar has the bar designed for vertical clearance, whereas the Skyjacker bar is more for horizontal.
Unfortunately, I'm still going to small the bar into the diff cover, just in a different spot. I may need to rethink the Yukon diff cover, as I think the larger profile is adding to the issue. Someone on FB said that they had no issues clearing their TMR cover with the factory TB, so perhaps I may need more of a stamped-steel style cover than the nodular one. I'll order one this week and see if there is a difference before sending the Skyjacker bar back.
