2008 JKU "Argenta" Build Thread (plus an Islander side project)

Had to do an unexpected 5 hour round trip to pick up my daughter 4 days earlier than expected (her finals were mostly cancelled or exempted, and she now only has one to do online), but I was able to meet up with a lady selling this…
IMG_6483.jpeg


IMG_6485.jpeg


This fits nicely and will help with the “look like it came from the factory” part after all is said and done. This is OEM Mopar PN# 53013789AA, coming from any Jeep with a 5.7L from 2005-2010.
 
Last edited:
I hate engine covers, but I'm not gonna lie that one is pretty sweet.
 
I hate engine covers, but I'm not gonna lie that one is pretty sweet.

I'm generally in agreement - but I saw this one and really liked the shape/style (the GC versions are slightly different than the car styles)... then the fact that it says "JEEP" on it sold me. With a little silver touch-up paint on the "HEMI" raised sections and then some engine detailer, it should look good as new. For $40, if I don't like it, it becomes a cool wall hanger :)
 
  • Like
Reactions: WSS and tJKrider
Prepping for my front locker and future accessories, I figured that while half the engine bay is apart and since I'll need to run new battery cables in the near future, it makes sense to start thinking about wiring. Truth be told, I have already started working on wiring, but ran into a few snags. Before I started my build thread, I picked up a Painless "Trail Rocker" off someone nearby selling it on Facebook Marketplace:
IMG_9864.JPG


I like it because it seemed to look "factory" and took common Carling Contura Rocker style switches. It also supported up to 8 switched devices, not that I would likely ever need that many. It even has the option to switch-control a winch via some pre-wired controls (that are there but tucked away). Anyway, long before I even did the lift kit, I tried fitting the relay box where it was supposed to be mounted.

IMG_0093.JPG


According to the instructions, and the Painless technician that I spoke with, this is supposedly exactly where it needs to go. Unfortunately, the mounting bracket isn't even close to fitting, and the rocker prevents the hood from properly closing. I spoke with the Painless tech many times and came to the conclusion that they were going to essentially be zero help with this issue. Knowing I was going to do the Hemi swap anyway, I figured it wasn't too much to get worked over and I would figure it out at a later time. Well, it's now "later"...

Unfortunately, with the Hemi, and due to the height of the relay box itself, there's no way this Trail Rocker is going to work for me. Thinking about it more and more, I realized that I would probably prefer a pillar-mounted switch setup anyway. In my TJ and LJ, having the locker and light switches down low were hard to reach (depending on shifter location) and even harder to see. So with that in mind, I'll be putting the Trail Rocker back on Marketplace and am working through my future setup.

31J0W72kEML._AC_SL1000_.jpg

I ordered Rugged Ridge PN# 17235.56, their pillar switch pod specifically for 07-10 Jeep JK's. It generally gets good reviews and seems to be mostly out of my way, while being completely in reach (I did do some test "presses" while being firmly cinched back in the seat in my daughter's Islander!). I really only need three circuits at the moment (front locker, off-road lights, rock/area lights), with a fourth being optional for future changes (I would still like to potentially run a UD60 rear if I can find one reasonably priced, so I would need one for the rear locker too). The pillar pod comes with the cutouts in place, so I can "install as I go" and not have an ugly open spot or dead switch in the meantime.

For relays, the Trail Rocker seems like super nice quality, but as I said, there is just no way it is going to fit under the hood without hitting something. So, in my attempt to find a good alternative, I remembered seeing some people use the MSD "solid state" relays for their hot rods. I did some digging and the MSD 4-Channel Relay Module #7566-4 is highly regarded for its ability and reliability in handling four 40A circuits. I don't need nearly that much, but if this thing can handle that much juice, it's likely well made and long lasting.
32bbc465c3274668a662089c091abe21.jpg


The only accessible place I will have to mount this is likely right over the ABS module. Barnes4x4 sells a mount designed for the ARB Dual Compressor setup. This seems like it would work, though worst cast I may need to clearance it a little around the J8 setup.:
Screenshot 2025-12-08 144327.jpg


A company called Rain Rock Offroad also sells something similar, which I found randomly posted on Facebook. They can make this out of aluminum, but the response time from that company is slow. Still, I do like the simple design and if they can't supply it, I may just end up making it myself:
476156015_654547457087570_8128713271375313725_n.jpg


I did a parts recon and it looks like I need to order a few DT connectors and 18AWG pins, but thankfully I mostly have everything I need for wiring, loom, clips, and more.
 
After what feels like a month, my KBD flares showed up!
IMG_6520.JPG


I took an hour or two before making dinner to get them installed. Yesterday was one of the coldest of the season so far, so when I saw that they got delivered, I threw them in the garage next to the heater. This certainly helped with the installation, which itself was really easy. Push in the plastic clips, then screw the flares to the Jeep.

IMG_6525.JPG


Overall I'm really happy that I went with these flares. They're simple, follow the body lines really well, and won't cause any issues with rust. They also seem really unlikely to get ripped off during wheeling trips. I hope they hold up well to the sun and weather. I may, depending on how they hold up, paint them at some point. I have seen where people have had a hard time painting these, and let's be honest - this Jeep isn't a show stopper - so that is a big "maybe" at this point.

IMG_6521.JPG


As you can clearly see, these don't cover much, but hopefully they keep at least SOME stuff from getting on the windshield in the winter. My LJ had a variety of flares and winter driving was the worst part about running "skinny" flares.
 
  • Like
Reactions: tJKrider
Well - I fuc%ed up...
1375a6c9f22e69e55bf8cd5e3507e9dc.jpg
2007-jeep-wrangler-jk-rubicon-2dr-4x4-jcr-s-project-crusader-07-1a4ddc34-1755053899243.jpg
2007-jeep-wrangler-jk-rubicon-2dr-4x4-jcr-s-project-crusader-09-e9990fd6-1755053895927.jpg
2007-jeep-wrangler-jk-rubicon-2dr-4x4-jcr-s-project-crusader-14-a21c8b69-1755053896633.jpg


I stumbled across JCR's "Project Crusader" and then Offroad Power Products "Ultimate JK Build", and now I want to build a 2-door JK with a Jeepworks JKL kit next (well, next-next... my son is heart set on doing a STI/WRC replica project for him next) :ROFLMAO:

On an unrelated topic/update, I was pleased to find out that the generic "firewall boots" commonly sold on Amazon fit perfectly inside the clutch slave cylinder hole in the booster/firewall plate:
IMG_6518.JPG

IMG_6519.JPG


That should make running the wires to the relays considerably easier! Speaking of running wires to the relays, I have always been a big fan of using DT connectors for this. I dug through my stock and apparently I must have used up a bunch of stuff on my LJ and forgot to restock the connectors. As I started adding things up, it just made sense to order a new "mini kit" from Deutsch Connector Store (my go to!). I got the last one in stock:
Screenshot 2025-12-12 084111.png


I've used the "ProWireUSA" kits a handful of times and they're CONSIDERABLY better than the ones off of Amazon (which break nearly every single time I've had to disassemble one).

The Mopar A/C kit came fast and I got it mocked up. Now I've gotta find a belt that works for this... the 2012 Challenger setup takes a 2100mm/820K6 belt but that was just a smidge short. I'm guessing this is because the PSC pump and pulley size is a bit off of the original size and location.
IMG_6553.JPG


Some more good news - some of the hard parts for the Jeep Speed Shop Hemi Swap kit have shipped!
Screenshot 2025-12-12 084240.png


Timing wise this is excellent! I really need the motor mounts and steering shaft relocation parts to show up. This will let me keep moving and cross off some other items that need to be done, like finalize the J8 Booster & Master install, which will let me be able to start working on the wiring stuff. My hope is to get the brakes buttoned back up, steering reconnected, and the engine test-fit the week between Xmas and New Years when I have some time off...
 
Last edited:
The car I lusted after for a long time. 1998 22B:

That's a sweet one! My son, much like me (and totally independently, as his fascination with turbo AWD cars is somewhat new) loves everything about the 2004-05 STI S10 WRC:
Subaru-22-1235-102862.jpg


Those are hard years to find in decent shape, and especially at a price I'm willing to spend on a 16 year old's first car. We did find a 05 STi "replica" that was a decent option, but it needed a good bit of engine work (to make reliable) AND body work (no rust, but faded paint, flaking clear coat, lots... LOTS of random dents and dings, etc.). I'd rather find one that has a clean body and blown up engine (easy with a non-STI!) that we can build something fun for.
IMG_5406.JPG

IMG_5405.JPG


There are a couple of Hawkeyes in the area that pop up so I'm slowly trying to convince him that they might be a better option. We found a white-on-black one in NJ that would be a good option. It has a "Rebuilt" title due to a deer strike, but the guy supposedly has the receipts and photos of everything, so I am not hesitant about that (and it's priced accordingly). It's also a true STi and adult owned its entire life.

580825005_3508683752606716_1346959095592071663_n.jpg


Right now we are casually looking but if a good deal pops up we'd buy it and park it at my friend's mom's house (she has a detached garage on her property with 1/4 of asphalt and nothing nearby!). We will likely get much more serious once my Hemi swap is done, and at that point we'll have the garage open to start working on something.
 
  • Love
Reactions: tJKrider
I've got about a half dozen "mini" projects underway (which drives me nuts but also keeps my ADHD brain happy), but with parts in the mail, it's the only option I have to keep moving along with the project.

I confirmed fitment of the Rugged Ridge pillar switch mount. Despite how it looks in the photo, it does match the interior quite well and I really like the position of the switches from the driver's seat.
IMG_6596.JPG


I'm not sure why these things don't come with all the holes punched out and with little "plugs" in place, but this was such a pain in the a$$. It took me about an hour to get the holes properly cut out and trimmed. I just need to figure out what style switches I want. I'm leaning towards the typical Carling-style switches with the descriptive text laser etched on the surface.
IMG_6600.JPG


I will likely need to "massage" the firewall a bit and since I'm not a fan of fiberglass dust all over my face and garage, I removed the insulation (aka "silencers") from the trans tunnel and firewall. As you can see, the passenger side has a bit of damage, and the passenger side heat shield is missing.
IMG_6620.JPG


You can see how much material is missing on the passenger side when it is off the Jeep. The left and right sides are supposed to match (for the most part).
IMG_6621.JPG
IMG_6622.JPG


The part is still available, but is NOT cheap. I found some good prices on eBay and after going back and forth with myself, I decided to skip the generic insulation and go with the factory pieces.

The parts are Mopar Silencer Floor Pan Front Tunnel 2007-2010 OE 55361340AC (#15 in the diagram below):
Screenshot 2025-12-18 171822.png


and Dash Panel Silencer - Mopar 55361339AE (#12 below):
Screenshot 2025-12-18 171950.png


I saw that someone suggested removing the ABS/ECM tray to install the J8 Booster and Master Cylinder (to make alignment easier and reduce the risk of damaging the master). My washer tank has been leaking since last year, so I needed to replace it anyways. Seems like a good time to be doing all of this. I got a good deal on an OEM Mopar replacement from Quadratec, so in the meantime, I pulled the old one and strapped the ABS pump out of the way.
IMG_6623.JPG
 
I had the grinder out to prep the frame for the Hemi mounts, so I spent ~15 minutes getting the upper control arm mounts cleaned up and trimmed. This isn't "required" per JSS, but it was required for the old AEV Hemi Swap conversion, which the JSS kit shares much similarity with. I'll be using the JSS headers, but having some extra space and clearance down there isn't a bad thing...
IMG_6685.JPG
IMG_6686.JPG


Once the UCA mounts were trimmer, I marked and then took a flapdisk to the frame where the JSS mounts attach. A few minutes of clean up and beveling of the mounts themselves and I got them all tacked in place. The passenger side mount didn't want to sit as flush as I wanted, so I ended up tacking it at the bottom, and then used my floor jack and a 4x4" to leverage it upward...
IMG_6688.JPG


The Speedway Motors Hemi lift plate I ordered was originally shipped to me incorrectly made. I shipped it back and have been on backorder since Nov 29th. It's still on backorder, so I ended up cancelling that and just ordered the Summit Racing lift plate. This will let me get the engine test-fit this week...
 
  • Like
Reactions: tJKrider
I got the J8 Booster and MC bench bled (twice!) and installed. I left the lines disconnected for the time being to allow me to get the ABS pump and inner fender back in place.
IMG_6698.JPG


I temporarily installed the new Mopar washer-tank/ABS tray. This allowed me to mock up the Rain Rock Offroad accessory tray. Unfortunately, as you can see below, it is clearly designed for the 2011+ inner fenders. I spoke out to the owner of RRO and he confirmed that he indeed never tried these on an earlier rig (it was mainly designed as a vacuum pump relocation + Spod mount) and he didn't realize that they were differently sized.
IMG_6696.JPG


It's not the end of the world and although I paid a premium for a "direct fit", a piece of flat 1/8" aluminum and 20 minutes of playing around should make this super easy to make work. Overall, I like the design, and having the small adapter piece may make tweaking fitment, and removal, easier (perhaps I'll weld a stud to the adapter and use a wing nut).
IMG_6697.JPG


Since I was waiting for parts to arrive and was already "thinking" about wiring needs, I spent some time trying to figure out where I can place some rear-facing lights. The obvious, and commonly used location, is the "utility mast" on the AEV tire carrier. My concern is that the tire will block too much of the light. As you can see below, even the small-for-its-size 37" will block a good bit of it.
IMG_6721.JPG


The post offers a very secure mounting option. Perhaps I can make a "riser" of some sort, or even some sort of "T" or "wings" that mount the a pair of lights to the sides of the tire.
IMG_6723.JPG


I really like the size, shape, and light pattern of the Rigid SR-Q lights, but they're overpriced IMO (and I rarely find them second hand).
980023-SR-Q_PRO_DIFFUSED_BACKUP_KIT_5.jpg


Rigid has some "Revolve Pods" on clearance at the moment, so I may pick up a pair or two and see if they may be useful. My concern is overall light output, but if I'm limited on what I can install on top of the utility mast, two smaller pods on the side may be really handy. I don't want these as backup lights, but rather "utility" lights when out at night and unloading or doing something like hooking up a trailer.
490613-revolve-pod-pair-01.jpg
 
After fiddling around with motor mount orientation and location, the Hemi fits!
IMG_6744.JPG


I used a set of motor mounts from AutoZone, PN#3277 and #3243. The fitment is from a 2009-2010 WK2 with a 5.7L. AutoZone.com shows that #3243 (the longer mount) is for the "Front right" (passenger side). However, Liz from JSS confirmed that the long mount is indeed for left/driver side. Oddly enough, when I looked up all the motor mount options at AutoZone, it shows a Marmon-brand mount that appears to be the long-mount, though it lists it as the "Front left".
Screenshot 2025-12-26 105910.png


When I originally tried setting the motor in with the mounts based on the AutoZone orientation, the fitment wasn't even close and the motor was tilted down to the driver-side by about 5°. However, once I flipped the mounts it was night-and-day different and fit perfectly.

IMG_6741.JPG

"Long" mount, installed pointed down, on Driver Side

IMG_6743.png

Short mount, installed pointed down, on Passenger Side

With that confusion cleared up, clearances and level checked, I started to take note of a few things. I'm still waiting on some hardware to be delivered so that I can fit/modify the A/C compressor (needs to be clearanced for the PSC Big Bore):
IMG_6748.JPG


While waiting on hardware, I went ahead and cut the OEM heater hoses. The AEV Hemi Swap kit has a real good diagram about where to cut the hoses. I will likely replace these 209,000+ mile hoses before final install (though these "feel" much newer) but at least it helps confirm fitment and where to cut when I do.
IMG_6751.JPG


Next up:
- Pull the motor back out and burn these mounts in 100%, then throw some paint on the frame rails...
- Get the 8HP70 on the bench and pull the TCM out so it can be sent to JSS for reprogramming
 
My local powder coater, Route 247 Powder Coating & Sand Blasting, did an amazing job on my JSS brackets and parts:
IMG_6755.JPG
IMG_6758.JPG


Since the shifting on the 8HP70 is all done electronically, the OEM shifter gets removed and replaced with either a Charger or Challenger shifter. I found a 2016 Challenger shifter on eBay for a good price, complete with leather boot and illuminated shifter handle. I'm going to bring my floor plates to the powder coater as well. The time I'd spend cleaning them up and putting some paint on them isn't worth the $100 to get them blasted clean and coated.
IMG_6798.JPG


I had to clearance the A/C compressor mount to fit the PSC Big Bore (I'll update the Hemi swap page shortly), but thought I'd share just how tight this is. The Hemi swap is quite literally a game of millimeters! I think PSC sells a smaller, 4.5" pulley, that I may end up swapping to depending on how everything falls once the transmission is in place.
IMG_6792.JPG


That's ~1/4" between the pulley and steering box:
IMG_6788.JPG