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If everything at the hub is torqued properly there minimal extra forces, if any, applied to the bearing.

I bought steel 1.25” and put anti-seize around the hub area on the jeep and on the factory wheel. Had momma come out and hold the brakes on so I could torque the spacers on. Drove it a couple days and torqued the spacers again. None were loose. Checked the wheel lug torque a couple days later...

My ‘09 had an ugly grill. Bought a black OEM off Craig’slist.

If it functioned before they took it apart obviously they put it back together wrong. Call the dealership and work your way up the chain of command until you get something from them.

Take it back and make them correct it. The tech should learn from this mistake.

Check GR8TOPS.com. Probably expensive but good source for ideas. Bestop makes the factory soft tops and I think they have windjammers. Good Quality seat covers are going to be expensive. You can go the cheap route if you don’t mind changing them often. Probably yearly.

In my experience and reading here, I would go with the 4.10s. With 33s you will have good power with an auto and more with a stick. Also depending on your lift, you might be ok with 35s. You won’t be disappointed.

Great! Cheapest and easiest outcome. I’m surprised Chris hasn’t replied yet. We love helping. Other forums you get mostly smart a$$ comments. This is a true Jeep community. Virtually helping as if we were on the trails.

Charge up the battery and see if it starts on it’s own. Right now I would suspect a bad cell in the battery. If the battery checks out the next thing would be starter drawing too much current. Before buying a starter I would make sure the cables are not corroded. That should get you going in the...

How old is the battery?

On my 09 I had to take the bumper off to repair it. In that spot There is a “crush can” that is part of the metal bumper. When you have the bumper cover separated you can use a heat gun and the socket extension you mentioned. Heat the outside while Gently pushing on dent from inside. You should...

for a light I used a clear LED mounted to the Bottom of the light. Spliced into the connector for the factory light.

I’ve been looking for over a year. I have mine wrapped around the corner and double stick tape on the ends. Only pic I have on my phone I used the top screws for the Factory bracket. Drilled 2 holes in the center of the plate. You can see one just to the left of the little state symbol.

Yes and no actually. If you have 2 sets of the same tread design and tread depth the 225 would be noticeable in 8”+ deep snow. The slop left from plows on the average winter road you would hardly notice a difference. What will be different is your speedometer because of the big circumference...

The drag link is the angled one from steering gear to the passenger steering knuckle. The tie rod connects the left tire to the right tire. They both should twist but not move left and right or up and down.

I just put 285/70 on my ‘09 JK with 1.25 inch spacers and factory wheels. They are barely past the fenders. With new wheels changing your back spacing at least 1.25” you will not have rubbing and the engine power loss with your manual trans will barely be noticed. As far as the speedometer goes...

I have load range C that I run at 25 psi. 285/70R17

I was hopeful somebody would answer. I remember needing to heat and melt plastic out of u-joint ends. I have to admit I didn’t pay attention to that end when I replaced the cv joint on my front shaft. Other than taping the caps on

Most death wobble comes from tire balance. I would start by balancing the current tires and inspecting front suspension and replacing the worn parts. That will give you time to shop and save for tires. Keep us updated on your discovery.

I had 33 x 10.50 tires and ran them at 25 psi to soften the ride. more air it would ride like a 1 ton.