2008 JKU "Argenta" Build Thread

pc1p

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If my handle and avatar look familiar, you've probably seen some of my other stuff on the various other Wrangler Forums and pages. If you haven't, and if you've got some time to kill, feel free to look around the links in my signature...

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I've put it off for a while but finally decided that a SWB Jeep just won't cut it anymore. Even my most recent Jeep, an LJ - shown above - was simply too crammed for daily life with kids, work, play, and more. During a recent trip back from football practice with my son and his two buddies, it dawned on my just how fast kids grow (even when we know the cliche!). What also dawned on my was how small the LJ is, even though when I first got it, it felt like a minivan compared to the TJ/YJ. Anyway, long story somewhat shorter, I got an offer for it that was too good to pass up and decided to sell.

Left with the need to replace it, I was up in the air about what to get. I was looking at getting a new Ram Rebel or Power Wagon, hoping that CJDR would bring back a 0% interest rate again to help with their massive overstock inventory. Either one would be a smart, "practical" decision, since we also live up in the country and having a pick-up is handy for a number of reasons. However, both the Rebel and Power Wagon don't have much of a "fun" factor, at least not like a Wrangler does. Last year we got my daughter a JKU when she got her license, and since then I've been warming up to the JKU platform. Getting the "itch" to replace the LJ was growing strong and I did some late night looking around on Marketplace and found a good option that would allow me to address the thing I disliked most about the JKU - the lack of power.

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Meet Argenta, my high-mile (209,000 at the time of purchase!), bright-silver, 2008 JKU. Originally from Florida, with zero rot and just some mild surface rust, it seemed like a killer option for me to have a little fun with a new build, while getting the space and practicality I needed.

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Other than a small dent in the driver front fender, and the absolutely filthy interior, the Jeep was in good overall condition for being 16 years old. For $6500, it was certainly below market by about $2500 (locally at least). Here are some clean-up shots from the day I brought it home...

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This filth was just from the driver's door that I wiped clean so my arms and shirt wouldn't get stained... I don't know how some people live to be honest!

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The seats... oh the seats. I don't know what the stains are from but they were disgusting. The saving grace with this Jeep was that despite the lack of cleaning, there weren't any atrocious smells. It smelled, well like a normal car.

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Some pre-treat spray (just diluted carpet cleaner inside a pump sprayer), a light brush, and hit with my Bissell, and the stains mostly came out.

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The previous owner didn't own it for long, only about 3 months, originally for his wife, who soon learned she was pregnant after getting the Jeep. She had little interest in it beforehand, and once learning of the pending bundle of joy, lost any shred she may have had remaining. The PO put a few dollars into it as there were some new parts installed (the rear driver side caliper for example). Still, even with the work performed (just enough to get it to pass the annual safety inspection), the rear brakes were grinding a bit, the dash had a TPMS light on, and the "Change Oil Soon" reminder was blinking on the info panel. Still, even with that, I know from the test drive and cold start up that the motor and trans were in decent overall condition and that any work to make it road worthy would be simple...
 
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As I mapped out my build plan, I had to address some basic stuff to get her road worthy as school was about to start up for the year. The front brakes were easy enough. I threw these silly spacers in the trash and swapped the heavily warped "racecar" rotors out for some new Duralast Gold rotors from AutoZone (yay for 20% discount codes and free next-day shipping!).
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With some fresh grease and pads, the braking wobble went away completely. I turkey-bastered the brake fluid reservoir and put fresh DOT 3 inside, then proceeded to bleed the front until fresh fluid came through. After that, I turned my sites to the rear. These required a little more work, but was easy enough. I bled the rears until the fluid ran clear, then did the front once again and the brakes feel absolutely outstanding and are whisper quiet.
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In a stroke a good luck, I found a guy not too far away selling a set of Rubi Recon take-off wheels with near-new Cooper Discoverer AT3 - the same tires my wife has been running on her Grand Cherokee for a few years. These are excellent in the snow an as you can see in the photo, really helpful for our driveway. For $600 they were a good deal and fit well into my "Phase 1" plans - they even came with brand new TPMS sensors. The seller also had a bunch of stock components - all low-mile take offs from his Recon build. He let me pick through what I wanted and I got a replacement set of UCAs to replace mine for pennies - win!!! On the same day, I met a lady who had a set of take-off Rubi rock rails for $100. I figured if nothing else, the Rubi rails was better than leaving the surprisingly sharp and rusting remains of previously installed steps.
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It's amazing what some decent looking wheels and Rubi rails will do. Turns this from an old lady/man/mom car into something that isn't totally embarrassing in the parking lot...

I just recently replaced my daughter's garbage Kenwood headunit with an Alpine iX-W670 and Alpine backup camera. I liked it so much I went ahead and ordered one for mine as well. While the dash was apart, I replaced the broken HVAC control panel with an OEM Mopar one I found on eBay:
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Next up was the non-functional horn. When I first brought it home, the horn only worked when the alarm was going off, and it was a junk "air horn" style that sounded like it had a squeak toy stuck down the pipe. After ripping that out and replacing with a low-tone "highway blaster" from AutoZone, I attempted to start diagnosing why the horn didn't beep when I pressed the horn button. Starting at the top and working down, the logical step was to make sure the fuses were first good, then check to see if the switch was working. Thanks to YouTube, I figured out how to remove the horn pad/airbag and lo and behold, as soon as I did, I quickly realized the likely culprit. The white wire was broken off and resting above the connector. A quick $90 on Amazon got me a Mopar replacement and all is well...

Floppy broken button:
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New, now completely functional horn switch. A $94 but a necessary evil. I wish I could get the keyless entry going next, but looks like I'll need to dig into that a tad more.
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I had this rattle/squeak in the front bumper area that was from the bumper itself. I have no idea what was rattling inside it (the fog lamps checked out fine and bolts were tight) but ended up picking up a cheap RedRock Attack Stubby bumper off of XT for next to nothing. It's not my "long term option", as I'll likely go with a frame-chop option at some point, but it will help with my short-term plans of getting me through the winter...
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In another late-night perusing of Facebook Marketplace, I found a guy selling an aftermarket flat black grille. I've always liked the Willy's style flat-black grille and this thing was ~2 miles away. For $50, I gave it a shot. It came with LED turn signals and some funky grill inserts, but thankfully those were easy to remove and swap out.
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I hemmed and hawed a little bit about what exactly I needed, and then wanted, out of the JKU and ultimately settled on the following build plan:

  • V8 power - the 3.8L and even the 3.6L is underpowered and always felt sluggish to me, even stock. A Hemi swap is something I have some experience with and make a lot of sense in a JKU.
  • Modern Auto Transmission - lazy transmissions are worse than underpowered engines. A ZF 8-speed mated to the Hemi is essentially a "gift from the gods" as it was described to me by a friend with a 6.2/ZF combo in his JKU (also on tons).
  • 37"-38" tires - should add enough ground clearance while still being able to park inside the garage at the house, as well as the airport terminal (I travel a bit for work still)
  • Overbuilt and Reliable - this has always been a long-time build approach, regardless of build.
  • Street friendly handling/manners - for sanity and in case the Mrs. needs to drive it for any reason
  • Ability to keep the Jeep "mostly" inspection friendly (PA requires annual "safety inspections", one requirement being that the tire thread is completely covered by the flare/fender) - no one will bother me in my area, but driving to some of the off-road parks can attract unwanted attention from local law enforcement, so best to squeak under the radar when you can
With the above in mind, I've started collecting parts to make it happen. I found what I believe to be the last remaining "Mopar Performance" D60 crate front axle in the U.S. For the price that Jegs got this for me, I literally couldn't build a SD60 of equal performance. The MP60 is the same exact axle as the UD60, except it says "Jeep" on the diff cover, instead of "Dana". Heck, for an almost $4500 price difference between the MP60 and UD60, it could be powdercoated pink and say "Powder Puff" for all I care!
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Some people aren't huge fans of the UD/MP60 axle, some due to historical QC problems (loose spindle nuts and poor welds being the most common), though for my application it made the most sense overall. The 69" WMS keeps me wide enough to run common 37-38" tire widths with ease, while still keeping the rig reasonable narrow and tires under the flares. The brakes are OEM Ram 3500 parts and the speed sensors are OEM Jeep.

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For the rear, I originally ordered what I thought (and what Jegs said!) was the last remaining Mopar Performance D60 in the country, but after having my ETA bumped back for 6 weeks, the order was finally cancelled as Jegs was told by their distributor that there weren't any options left. Not the end of the world, as 14B/10.5" AAM axles are easy enough to build, though I do wish an e-locker was an option.

I sourced the least rusty 10.5AAM I could find and made the trip down to pick it up. The axles have gone up in $$ a bit (used to find them for $80 on "half price Tuesdays" at the Pick-N-Pull places), but such is life. At $450, it was still a cheap option. One thing I miss about AZ was that nothing had scale on it at all. This has a bit that I'll need to deal with, but should still be manageable.
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A few minutes with the grinder and carbide saw blade, and the brackets were off (which knocked a bunch of scale off in the process!).
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I ground down all the bracket welds and got more of the scale and rust off. I have a needle scaler coming this weekend to get the rest of the scale on the center chunk. I wasn't able to get the bolts out of the diff cover as they had rusted round, and the ones I was able to get out have AMPLE amounts of Red Loctite on them for some reason. What type of psycho uses Red Loctite on the diff cover?!?!?! Anyway, a trip to the hardware store to pick up some 9/16" nuts gave me enough tries to get the stuck bolts off with the old "weld-on-a-nut" trick.
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Gears look good (factory 4.10's) and what I think is a Gov-Loc. I'm going to brake clean the inside of the housing out, pull the shafts, and strip the hubs. From there I'll run a tap down each of the diff cover bolt holes and then finish cleaning up the housing and tubes to make it "weld ready" - which reminds me, I need to pick up some weld-thru primer...
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In preparation for the original MP60 rear, I ordered the requisite extended e-brake cables from Mopar. Now that I'm going with the 14B, I had to figure out an alternative. I know a few places sell aftermarket cables, but honestly I have never- EVER - had good luck with non-OEM cables. They're too big, too small, too long, too short, and just not up to the quality of OEM. As a result, I set out to find an alternative.

After looking at some photos and specs, it looks like the UD/MP60 rear axle shares many parts with the Ram 2500/3500 AAM 10.5", which itself shares a lot of commonality with the newer GM "14 Bolt" AAM 10.5" axles. As I got to thinking about how I'd possibly adapt the Mopar extended brake cables for the UD60 rear to the 14B, I think that solution will be much easier than anticipated.

Here's the GM-style parking brake lever (left) and Ram/Dodge style (right):
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They're basically identical except for the eyelet portion. Since the Mopar brake cables utilize the rod + eyelet style ends, I think this should allow me to run OEM cables just like I would with the MP60 rear.

In preparation of the work, I also picked up a brand-new Miller 211. I was undecided on what to do for welder. I found a few okay deals on Marketplace, but nothing close by and the one that was, the guy sold the welder out from under me even though we had already made plans to meet up later in the day. Getting frustrated, I checked the local Airgas shop nearby and they had two brand-new 211's on the shelf, one of which was being offered with a discounted Spoolmate 100 spool gun. They have their "Build with Blue" rebate program going on, so the extra $500 savings put me over the edge to make the decision. I was considering a bigger option, particularly the Miller 252, but having used a 211 before to build axles and engine brackets, it's perfect for what I need and will allow me to tuck it away in the corner of the shop without getting in the way too much. It's also small enough for me to carry it in the basement for some future renovation projects as well.
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I'm still a little undecided on what to do for traction aid in the 14B. The rock guy in my says to throw in a Detroit and call it a day. The practical guy who drives it daily, including in the snow, says to go with a TrueTrac. Then there's the guy in the middle that says to go with an ARB. While I do generally love selectable diffs, I'm not a huge fan of the ARB, particularly since my front axle is an e-locker. The extra wiring, air lines, finding a home for the compressor, and more just seems like a pain in the a$$ for the very small benefit it may give me in my use.
 
Welcome and, wow, you've made some great progress already! Can't wait until you get around to addressing this statement!!

Thanks!

The plan is to find a decent 5.7L Truck Hemi with matching ZF trans to start. From there, if I want a little more, I would build up a core 5.7L or move up to a tuned 392. The reason I want to start with a 5.7 is that all the truck accessories tend to fit better in a JK application, plus I have a lot of experience with the 5.7 truck motors (it's what I used with my TJ-6 build, pictured below):

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I'm not a huge fan of the ARB, particularly since my front axle is an e-locker

I'm partial to e-lockers myself but that is what I have had in past (and current) trucks. I've never had a true-trac in a truck, but have in a street/track car and it performed nicely in both environments...
 
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I'm partial to e-lockers myself but that is what I have had in past (and current) trucks. I've never had a true-trac in a truck, but have in a street/track car and it performed nicely in both environments...

When I was building my TJ-6, I also built a 93' RamCharger as a rescue truck. It was on 37"s, tons, and a had a built 408 stroker motor (about 475hp/550 ft lbs). The TrueTrac in the back was a godsend on the road and had great road manners. I also ran a F8.8/D30 combo in my YJ for a while and it did well, up until you lift a tire...

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