2013 Wrangler Unlimited Sahara Issues: No Start, Clicking Relay

Muffin

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Bradenton, Florida 34208, United States
Ok whole lot of info to dump, but at my wits end and ready to let the Hurricane take it away!
Bought this Jeep in June, as of day 2, code gremlins began.
Misfires in Cyl 3 & 5. Replaced plugs, coils, & fuel injectors. Still was misfiring and also started getting air/fuel ratio imbalance bank 1. But all codes would randomly clear themselves. Researched on here and started swapping sensors: Manifold absolute pressure sensor (map), Camshaft position sensor, Crankshaft sensor, Air charge sensor.
All was good for about a week, misfire codes came and went. Then got code for closed circuit injector 5 (sorry can't remember code). Was set to take to a shop that specializes in electrical/diagnostic when it went full limp mode while driving. All codes cleared but new one came up U110B.
Thinking a bad TCM could be cause of all the code gremlins, bought a new OEM, had it flashed to my VIN. Programming took, but when went to start, Auto Shut Off relay began clicking and drained the battery. Checked here, most said a bad battery could cause. New battery, issue remains. Won't start and can't keep power long enough to grab codes.
Like I said, ready to let this hurricane have it!
Any ideas??!! Many thanks in advance.
 
Clamps were clean and even checked for any corrosion under the wire covering. Dont believe they are the original clamps, but doubt are HD ones. "Adds to cart".
Add on info: I did notice when went to start after putting new battery in "vehicle not in park" had returned (from before new tcm was programmed). Talked to the guy that programmed it and he said it was reading "no communication with PCM" but TCM was programmed & not in park had cleared. So not sure why that is back again. Am going to start at the wires off fuse box and slowly check each one.
Am I right in this thinking ... if it is the Auto Shut Off relay tripping, bad wire must be one connected to there? (Which is what, fuel pump, ignition, & ?) Wouldn't other relays or fuses be going wonky if was other wires?
Am a hands on girly and have managed all repairs myself up until now. Haven't had to deal with electrical issues before.
 
Some of us including myself will add a extra ground from the battery to the alternator, bad missing grounds are one of the biggest electrical causes.

If you thing the ASD relay is causing a problem swap it with another one in the fuse box that is the same, or buy a new one for it.

It's good to hear that your not afraid to get your hands dirty and want to learn how to do your own repairs.
 
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Some of us including myself will add a extra ground from the battery to the alternator, bad missing grounds are one of the biggest electrical causes.

If you thing the ASD relay is causing a problem swap it with another one in the fuse box that is the same, or buy a new one for it.

It's good to hear that your not afraid to get your hands dirty and want to learn how to do your own repairs.

Sorry, forgot to add that in there. Did swap around the relays and no matter which one is put in ASD slot, it clicks, so relays themselves are good, that slot is bad or whichever wires is connected to it.
Thanks! Was raised helping Dad rebuild motors and cars, alas the old carb days though 😀
 
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Sorry, forgot to add that in there. Did swap around the relays and no matter which one is put in ASD slot, it clicks, so relays themselves are good, that slot is bad or whichever wires is connected to it.
Thanks! Was raised helping Dad rebuild motors and cars, alas the old carb days though 😀

I've convinced myself that if I ever have engine or alot of electrical issues it's going simple with a GM engine or a Cummins 4bt.
 
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My biggest complaint about the factory electrical system (after the shitty battery clamps, that is!) is that all of the sensors rely on the same 5V source signal from the ECU/TIPM.
This means that a wiring issue can put you on the hunt for the root cause in places where it isn't.

Take a look at this post: https://wranglerjkforum.net/threads/limp-mode.32181/post-466190
and consider removing your intake to examine the wiring harness at the oil pressure sensor.

The intermittent shorting at this connector had me ready to tow it to trade it in.
 
My biggest complaint about the factory electrical system (after the shitty battery clamps, that is!) is that all of the sensors rely on the same 5V source signal from the ECU/TIPM.
This means that a wiring issue can put you on the hunt for the root cause in places where it isn't.

Take a look at this post: https://wranglerjkforum.net/threads/limp-mode.32181/post-466190
and consider removing your intake to examine the wiring harness at the oil pressure sensor.

The intermittent shorting at this connector had me ready to tow it to trade it in.

Thankfully those wires all looked fine. Checked them when did plugs, coils, injectors.
Waiting for storm to pass and then it's time to wire hunt!
 
Some of us including myself will add a extra ground from the battery to the alternator, bad missing grounds are one of the biggest electrical causes.

If you thing the ASD relay is causing a problem swap it with another one in the fuse box that is the same, or buy a new one for it.

It's good to hear that your not afraid to get your hands dirty and want to learn how to do your own repairs.

Will have to search if anyone has a post about doing this. May be my next project while checking wiring.
 
All wiring off fuse box/tpm look to be good. Saw no cracks, melts, or breaks. So not sure what is causing the ASD relay slot to click (swapped with other relays and same result).
Going to go check and clean the grounds - if anyone can direct me to how they ran a new ground from battery to alternator, let me know (didn't see any posts about this thru search). This may be my next try before throwing in the towel.
 
Clicking stopped in relay, go figure. (Nevermind started again, pulled relay and put back in and it stopped again) Got it to turn over, but immediately shut off. Was able to pull codes: P1644, U0100, U110B. U110B is what led me to replace the TCM (regarding all the random codes was getting on and off led to believe it was going bad and was cause of faulty codes). Had a guy come program the TCM, but is still showing not in park and the above codes. He had said it lost communication with ECM but was programmed. Not sure if believe him at this point.
Not sure where to go at this point.
 
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All wiring off fuse box/tpm look to be good. Saw no cracks, melts, or breaks. So not sure what is causing the ASD relay slot to click (swapped with other relays and same result).
Going to go check and clean the grounds - if anyone can direct me to how they ran a new ground from battery to alternator, let me know (didn't see any posts about this thru search). This may be my next try before throwing in the towel.

You just need about a 10 or 12ga wire with eye terminals on both ends and bolt one end to the neg. terminal and the other to a case bolt on the alternator.
 
These are current errors showing.

20240929_155608.jpg


20240929_155541.jpg
 
The vehicle not in park could be the shifter bushings are bad, have you tried starting it in neutral?

Yeah will turn over and start in neutral. This came up after put in new TCM. Guy that programmed it said that was cleared and it was properly flashed but since it's back ....? Guessing he didn't program it correct, which would explain P1644 code. Still stumped on lost communication to ecm. Really do not want to toss a new one at it!
 
Yeah will turn over and start in neutral. This came up after put in new TCM. Guy that programmed it said that was cleared and it was properly flashed but since it's back ....? Guessing he didn't program it correct, which would explain P1644 code. Still stumped on lost communication to ecm. Really do not want to toss a new one at it!

Did you try a ECM reset?
 
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Think I did at some point (when first went limp mode with U110B code) but honestly cannot say I have. This thing has fried the last of brain cells with this mess lol
Easy to do?

 
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