J8 booster talk
- Thread starter WSS
- Start date
Buying two right now!
How in the world do you find this stuff? You would make a excellent purchasing agent for just about any industry.
I hadn't seen discussions about using spacers. Why are they needed? Granted, it's been a few years, but the info I saw didn't discuss the need for shims.
I did read a suggestion of trimming the non-threaded parts of the mounting bolts to give clearance when installing.
I watched this video a while ago, which I felt was pretty solid - although I think he ruined the booster in the process. It was a cringe moment when i heard the sucking of the fluid, for sure. He also didn't do the ABS bleed, which i do believe is necessary after reading up on it more.
I don't think I'll be able to keep my visit compressor mount. Even if I adapted the mount, I'm thinking clearance won't be enough for it and the relay box I have.
I did read a suggestion of trimming the non-threaded parts of the mounting bolts to give clearance when installing.
I watched this video a while ago, which I felt was pretty solid - although I think he ruined the booster in the process. It was a cringe moment when i heard the sucking of the fluid, for sure. He also didn't do the ABS bleed, which i do believe is necessary after reading up on it more.
I don't think I'll be able to keep my visit compressor mount. Even if I adapted the mount, I'm thinking clearance won't be enough for it and the relay box I have.
The rod on the old booster was .255" longer than the new J8 booster, the rod is not adjustable like my older rigs. This is a non issue 2012 and up, the early JK's used a shorter rod. Sometimes, it was just right or maybe a washer or two. I just took the JK for a test drive and the brakes engage right away, better than before with less pedal travel. The brakes release easy with no drag when my foot is off of it, so I hope it's all good.
I did not have to do the ABS disable (either time, I will get to that) because I did not run it without fluid, or "dry". The first bleed was very little air, as the bench bleed was solid and I plugged the lines as soon as I pulled them from the MC. I went back over the flare nuts on he MC due to them being a little wet on the bottom, there was my issue, the flare wrench slipped of the nut and rounded it. due to the small leak, I had to repair it. This was interesting. the tube and the thread are SAE, the head of the flare nut is the only "metric" part of it. So I cut about 3/8" off the bad end, put a flare nut with a 7/16" head and re flared it. I would have bent up a new one but the other end is a bubble flare. I do not have that tool. I did however buy 2 bubble flare to inverted flare adapters today at Mc Fadden Dale hdw. So, if it happens again, I can bend up my own for about 15 bucks.
I did two types of "bleeds" twice. First was the vacuum pull with my mighty vac and second was the 10min gravity bleed. No air for sure anywhere in the system.
I watched that video many times. Mostly so I would not trash the MC. That was "cringy". Poor guy. the brakes work way better than before. It has corrected three distinct problems, 1) the brake pedal does not pulse on downshift anymore, that was likely due to the o ring not being seated correctly. 2) easy stopping with light foot pressure on the streets, no more slick feeling brakes. 3) I can definetly bring the beast down quicker, way quicker, I can hear the rubber growling with the window down now.
VERY happy (right now lol). So far very good. Worth the effort on this project.
I did not have to do the ABS disable (either time, I will get to that) because I did not run it without fluid, or "dry". The first bleed was very little air, as the bench bleed was solid and I plugged the lines as soon as I pulled them from the MC. I went back over the flare nuts on he MC due to them being a little wet on the bottom, there was my issue, the flare wrench slipped of the nut and rounded it. due to the small leak, I had to repair it. This was interesting. the tube and the thread are SAE, the head of the flare nut is the only "metric" part of it. So I cut about 3/8" off the bad end, put a flare nut with a 7/16" head and re flared it. I would have bent up a new one but the other end is a bubble flare. I do not have that tool. I did however buy 2 bubble flare to inverted flare adapters today at Mc Fadden Dale hdw. So, if it happens again, I can bend up my own for about 15 bucks.
I did two types of "bleeds" twice. First was the vacuum pull with my mighty vac and second was the 10min gravity bleed. No air for sure anywhere in the system.
I watched that video many times. Mostly so I would not trash the MC. That was "cringy". Poor guy. the brakes work way better than before. It has corrected three distinct problems, 1) the brake pedal does not pulse on downshift anymore, that was likely due to the o ring not being seated correctly. 2) easy stopping with light foot pressure on the streets, no more slick feeling brakes. 3) I can definetly bring the beast down quicker, way quicker, I can hear the rubber growling with the window down now.
VERY happy (right now lol). So far very good. Worth the effort on this project.