Rough idle after tune up and belt replacement

Drebby00

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Replaced plugs and wires and a serpentine belt in my wife’s 2010 3.8 . At first I didn’t replace the 3 wires on passenger side becuase I didn’t feel like fishing them out from behind the intake and they didn’t look dry rotted , I started it up and I got the red lightning bolt and traction light and started motor and as sputtering , running rough . I decided to stop being lazy and replace the other 3 wires , still no help running the same . I made sure plugs were gapped at .050 used champion double platinum, and ac delco wires. I’ve triple checked to make sure all wires are going to the proper cylinders . I am also throwing codes p0174 p0171 p0300 p0456 po457 . It sounds like a vacuum leak the way it’s running but how can a vacuum leak arise from a tune up , it ran fine before . I have sprayed starter fluid around all the visible vacuum line and behind the intake and am not hearing the motor rev up .I have also taken off throttle body , cleaned it and made sure all connections on everything around where I was working are secure . I’m stumped. Any help , please !! TIA
 
Have you tried doing the ECM reset by removing the battery cables?

 
If I understand this correct it was running ok and you decided to give it a tune up? It's been proven a few times that if you don't use OEM electrical parts, tune up included you can have those issues.
 
If I understand this correct it was running ok and you decided to give it a tune up? It's been proven a few times that if you don't use OEM electrical parts, tune up included you can have those issues.
It was due , a lot of corrosion on plugs , they were pretty used up . I’m just saying it didn’t have this problem before . I was thinking of going to grab some oem wires tomorrow and trying that . I think the champion plugs are fine , same thing I pulled out of it .
 
If you did nothing else other then what your saying then that has to be the issue. I forget now if those are the OEM plugs.
 
Did you double check that the wires are on all the way? Check and see maybe an end isn't loose on the wires? That one has happened to me before. I had to take a pliers and squeeze the end closer together to make it "click" onto the spark plug. Like @BLACKJKU said, OEM is the way to go too.
 
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Update : I went and got some new wires this morning , installed them and it’s much improved , BUT . I’m still getting the red lighting bolt and traction control light on dash . I took it for a drive and it started great , drove fine , got back to house parked it and let it run and after a few minutes lights came on then it started sputtering , turned it off then restarted it then ran fine for a few minutes then lights came back on and started sputtering , I haven’t gotten any CEL yet . I’m friggin stumped .
 
Update : I went and got some new wires this morning , installed them and it’s much improved , BUT . I’m still getting the red lighting bolt and traction control light on dash . I took it for a drive and it started great , drove fine , got back to house parked it and let it run and after a few minutes lights came on then it started sputtering , turned it off then restarted it then ran fine for a few minutes then lights came back on and started sputtering , I haven’t gotten any CEL yet . I’m friggin stumped .

The red Lightning bolt is the gas pedal reset, the ESP light usually means the steering wheel isn't centered.

Were those spark plugs the OEM?

Maybe try the ECM reset since you have the new wires on.
 
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The red Lightning bolt is the gas pedal reset, the ESP light usually means the steering wheel isn't centered.

Were those spark plugs the OEM?

Maybe try the ECM reset since you have the new wires on.
I used champion double platinum, don’t have the number handy but they were identical to the old ones I pulled out that had no issue. I’ve reset ecm several times and reset tps . No change .
 
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Yea that would set off a EGR code, I have my EGR bypassed but never checked the code it's setting off. I don't have any issues with it running though like your having.
 
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Replaced plugs and wires and a serpentine belt in my wife’s 2010 3.8 . At first I didn’t replace the 3 wires on passenger side becuase I didn’t feel like fishing them out from behind the intake and they didn’t look dry rotted , I started it up and I got the red lightning bolt and traction light and started motor and as sputtering , running rough . I decided to stop being lazy and replace the other 3 wires , still no help running the same . I made sure plugs were gapped at .050 used champion double platinum, and ac delco wires. I’ve triple checked to make sure all wires are going to the proper cylinders . I am also throwing codes p0174 p0171 p0300 p0456 po457 . It sounds like a vacuum leak the way it’s running but how can a vacuum leak arise from a tune up , it ran fine before . I have sprayed starter fluid around all the visible vacuum line and behind the intake and am not hearing the motor rev up .I have also taken off throttle body , cleaned it and made sure all connections on everything around where I was working are secure . I’m stumped. Any help , please !! TIA
Did you double check that the plugs are properly seated? Also, did you do anything with the injectors. The OBDC codes are easy enough to look up and "seem" to indicate two problems: one with an overly lean fuel air mixture leading to misfires, and one having to do with the EVAP system, and "might" mean your fuel cap is not properly on. Don't know if that could look iike a vacuum leak, but doubt it.

If you did the work yourself I would definitely check to be sure that all the plugs are properly seated, and that the coils are all working. Depending on OBDC reader you might be able to find data on which bank of plugs is the problem. And that none of the vacuum connections was dislodged while working on the engine. I've done that before. Once you've done that, if there's still a problem . . . .
 
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Did you double check that the plugs are properly seated? Also, did you do anything with the injectors. The OBDC codes are easy enough to look up and "seem" to indicate two problems: one with an overly lean fuel air mixture leading to misfires, and one having to do with the EVAP system, and "might" mean your fuel cap is not properly on. Don't know if that could look iike a vacuum leak, but doubt it.

If you did the work yourself I would definitely check to be sure that all the plugs are properly seated, and that the coils are all working. Depending on OBDC reader you might be able to find data on which bank of plugs is the problem. And that none of the vacuum connections was dislodged while working on the engine. I've done that before. Once you've done that, if there's still a problem . . . .
Plus and wires were fine , it was the pipe that bolts onto the egr valve , a bolt had came out and was loose . Put two new bolts in and it’s running like a top now
 
Plus and wires were fine , it was the pipe that bolts onto the egr valve , a bolt had came out and was loose . Put two new bolts in and it’s running like a top now

That pipe goes to the top of the intake so you was loosing manifold pressure, so that must have been the problem. The faster you go the more pressure it was pushing out at the EGR.
 
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That pipe goes to the top of the intake so you was loosing manifold pressure, so that must have been the problem. The faster you go the more pressure it was pushing out at the EGR.
I’m just not sure why it presented it self after the tuneup . My wife says it wasn’t running rough before I did the work . I may have put my hand on that pipe and jarred it a bit but not enough to knock out a bolt .
 
I’m just not sure why it presented it self after the tuneup . My wife says it wasn’t running rough before I did the work . I may have put my hand on that pipe and jarred it a bit but not enough to knock out a bolt .

Keep us updated on if this actually fixed the problem.