New member from TN with questions

Damn, looks like someone went crazy with the cutting wheel!

You definitely want a stock pitman arm though, not a dropped pitman arm. That will open up a lot of steering related issues.
 
I do have a welder however a new moog pitman arm is not that expensive. I appreciate all the responses obviously I should have posted here before I installed the lift, but it is a learning experience.
 
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I do have a welder however a new moog pitman arm is not that expensive. I appreciate all the responses obviously I should have posted here before I installed the lift, but it is a learning experience.
You should get a pitman arm puller too. You won’t have to cut the currently installed arm.
 
I have a puller the old one would not budge. I can assure you I would not had cut it off if I was able to pull it off.
 
From what I can see in your picture the track bar and drag link look pretty parallel. I would think putting a stock Pitman arm back on is going to throw that off but I could be wrong. I only know that when mine were not parallel I had terrible bump steer. When I got them parallel that disappeared.
 
I’m still replacing some old suspension components, ball joints, upper and lower control arms. I also purchased a doetsch steering assembly based on the recommendations from some of the folks here. I think the problem was from a lot of little things that combined caused the issues. I will update when I get everything installed.
 
From what I can see in your picture the track bar and drag link look pretty parallel. I would think putting a stock Pitman arm back on is going to throw that off but I could be wrong. I only know that when mine were not parallel I had terrible bump steer. When I got them parallel that disappeared.
The attachment points should be parallel IIRC. Also the track bar being too short throws it all off. If your track bar is in the factory frame location your pitman arm needs to be in the factory configuration. Dropping the axle 4” means you need a longer track bar or raise the axle end up and toward the center to compensate. You also will need to lengthen the drag link to keep the steering geometry proper.
 
I have a puller the old one would not budge. I can assure you I would not had cut it off if I was able to pull it off.
Got it. That happens sometimes. I’ve put a puller on and hit the puller bolt with a hammer before. Also left puller on and had my lunch to be spooked by it popping off!
 
Good point, I was not thinking about the track bar was original. One piece of advice if you are buying an adjustable track bar is to get one that can be adjusted while it’s installed. I can’t imagine trying to get it to the proper length otherwise.