Well we’ve got good reports on JKS, AEV, and Teraflex. I’ll have to compare them more closely and then post more specific questions.
Lift recommendation
- Thread starter TRevs
- Start date
@Danarch
@Jskunk
@Cimmerian
What tires are you running on your 2.5” lift? I might like to increase the size over stock but I don’t want to have interference with flexing off-road or lose too much power being undergeared.
@Jskunk
@Cimmerian
What tires are you running on your 2.5” lift? I might like to increase the size over stock but I don’t want to have interference with flexing off-road or lose too much power being undergeared.
315/R70/17 Mickey Thompson Baja Boss ATs
Keep in mind I also have swaybar disconnects, adjustable control arms and 5.13 gears.
Yeah I wouldn’t go that big due to the gearing, but you can fit them on a 2.5” lift?
Yea, no problem. My previous tires were 33s. I went with bigger tires when I did the re-gear.
I’d feel very comfortable going to 35 inch tires. 37 probably be ok too. I think 33 inch tires will take you over 95% of normal off roading. 35s will take you to 99%. 37s will for everything except for the most extreme.
I'm leaning toward the AEV; it has the least components and is therefore the least expensive, but if it turns out to need other components I can add them later. I'd like to avoid their Geometry Correction brackets since they would reduce ground clearance by a few inches right behind the front wheels.
It seems to me that leaving the front track bar completely stock would decenter the axle enough to cause issues, but I'm willing to take them at their word that it's not necessary for now.
it also seems that leaving the front LCAs unmodified could cause pinion angle problems for the driveshaft, but again if there're vibes I can deal with that later. By the same token, I'm a little dubious that the rear sway links can stay stock, (I have SwayLOC in the front so no problem there), but longer rear links shouldn't be too expensive.
For some reason I can't access the Teraflex site in the last couple days; there's a server issue per Cloudfare.
I want to keep the stock wheels; if I put on taller tires but keep the width around the stock 10", can I avoid spacers? E.g. 255/80/17 or even 34x10.5-17.
It seems to me that leaving the front track bar completely stock would decenter the axle enough to cause issues, but I'm willing to take them at their word that it's not necessary for now.
it also seems that leaving the front LCAs unmodified could cause pinion angle problems for the driveshaft, but again if there're vibes I can deal with that later. By the same token, I'm a little dubious that the rear sway links can stay stock, (I have SwayLOC in the front so no problem there), but longer rear links shouldn't be too expensive.
For some reason I can't access the Teraflex site in the last couple days; there's a server issue per Cloudfare.
I want to keep the stock wheels; if I put on taller tires but keep the width around the stock 10", can I avoid spacers? E.g. 255/80/17 or even 34x10.5-17.
From what I have learned from others the answer is yes. This is the route I plan on taking with mine, eventually. The other benefit of going with a 10/10.5" tire is the weight is kept to a reasonable level. As an example, Toyo Open Country ATs are ~53lbs in 255/80 and ~60lbs in 33x12.5. it doesn't sound like much but rotational weight has a large impact. You can quickly get up to ~70lbs in some of the more common wider sizes like 315/70, etc.
You won’t get driveline vibrations. That starts becoming a problem with higher lifts and adjusting the lower control arms forward. Keep a close eye on the front Rzeppa joint at the transfer case. When the boot shows tearing, replace with either a high angle Rzeppa joint or a new driveshaft with a double cardan joint.
Lifting without adjustable control arms (or geometry brackets) and an adjustable track bar WILL cause the axles and caster to be off. No way around it. But, at lower lifts it’s not much so you can get away without adjustment. Personally, I would not. But, it WILL work.
I’m helping a friend with a spacer lift later this year and I told him I would only if he did the lower control arms and an adjustable track bar. I want him to be very happy with how it rides and drives. He could do the lift without those parts but he’s on his own if he does. He wants it to ride well so he’s going to take my advice. He’s going to buy all the parts gradually as he can afford it and once he has everything, we are going to do the work.
Yeah I would be open to correcting caster; sounds like it could be done more economically with Teraflex fixed length LCAs than full adjustables.
The Teraflex website got fixed so I looked through their options. The Sport series seems inadequate for my plans; the Alpine series is way beyond my needs/budget. That leaves the Trail Select series; the mid-Level "Adventure" option actually looks pretty good. About 1K more than the AEV, it includes front adjustable sway bar, longer rear upper & front lower control arms, longer rear sway links. Piecing all that together would cost quite a bit more than the price difference of the kits.
Plus the shocks should be a little better and they appear to have nuts on top like stock instead of a hex/Allen, which should make install easier.
I'll plan on a Tom Wood or Adams front drive shaft in the near future as well.
Plus the shocks should be a little better and they appear to have nuts on top like stock instead of a hex/Allen, which should make install easier.
I'll plan on a Tom Wood or Adams front drive shaft in the near future as well.
I prefer adjustable lower control arms just for the ability to adjust everything right to where I want it.