How to get to gas tank top (fuel pump & evap connectors) in a 2018 Wrangler JKU without dropping the tank

Dwphillips

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How to get to gas tank top (fuel pump & Evap connectors) in a 2018 Wrangler JKU without dropping the tank. Can it be done?
 
You can cut a hole in from the top, but I think dropping the tank is probably your best bet. Just be sure to have it supported by a good floor jack, because it's almost certainly going to be heavy, unless you get it totally empty before you start.
 
Thanks!
I was hoping that there was a way to unbolt the rear metal cargo area and get to the Evap connectors.
I did cut through my 1979 CJ 7 to access the sending unit.
Dropping the tank is something I want to avoid!

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Why wouldn’t Jeep plan for fuel pump issues or Evap line issues that can be fixed without dropping the gas tank!!
You mean, like the same way you access the fuel pump in pretty much every car build in the last 20 years?
Maybe because dropping the gas tank is really pretty easy? It's certainly easier than swapping the notoriously leak-prone oil cooler...
 
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I had to replace the tank skid plate last year in my JKUR and the hardest part was how rusty the bolts were... the plate was really bad, but that is why I had to replace it.

Raising and lowering it was the easy part.

The fact that the tank straps are integrated into the skid plate means that you don't have to be super careful with your jack when lowering and raising the tank. The metal plate supports the plastic tank and is formed to it.

You do want the tank as empty as you can, because physics, but as long as you have a decent floor jack the job isn't bad. Unless you have to deal with rust down in the Huston area like we do up here in the North Woods.
 
Well, to change out my squirrel chewed up and spliced Evap tube to the filler neck, I put my JKUs rear tires on bricks and was able to remove the Evap line from the top of the tank and replace the tube with a new Mopar tube. It wasn’t easy but done!
Picture attached of the top of the tank and the connection. Connection has blue clip.

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Macguyver did u disconnect all the connectors on top. Just wondering about putting pressure on those and the nipple ( did I say nipple?) and did u use the ratchet strap method?
 
All I did was remove the connector (blue) at the top of the tank and at the other end. I did not lower the tank. Parking back wheels on bricks made it easier to get to the top of the tank and work. The connection at the top of the tank was fairly easy to disconnect. Pop up the blue clip, push in the white clip and it comes off. Then Disconnect the electrical connection and it’s off.
 
Macguyver did u disconnect all the connectors on top. Just wondering about putting pressure on those and the nipple ( did I say nipple?) and did u use the ratchet strap method?
I didn't disconnect anything because I used the ratchet strap method.

So first step was to get the bolts loose. I only broke one.. and then broke my buddies Matco extractor trying to get the bolt out.'
2. Once I was able to get some straps between the tank and the skid plate. I did that in order hold up the tank. It was an annoying job, but not that bad.
3. I used a floor jack on some scrap lumber for height to hold up the skid and fully remove the bolts.
4. I lowered the skid plate carefully making sure the awkward positioning of the straps worked.

I had picked up an actual skid plate of 1/4 steel hoping that I could just use that as the price was considerably less. You can't. As far as I can tell there are no alternatives to the actual OEM or remanufactured version. It fully encloses the tank and has built in tank straps and is perfectly contoured to the shape of the tank. This keeps the tank from moving around. So I had to order an actual one and wait with my jeep in my drive and the tank held up by ratchet straps.

5. So since I had the additional actual skid plate I combined them by drilling and painting the connection points and setting the two on my floor jack in a reverse maneuver of the removal. This just weighing vastly more. (the additional armor plate being around 90 lbs by itself.

6. I aligned the bolt holes and started the bolts, minus the one that forever-more contains half the original bolt and half of my buddies extractor. After they were all in, I went around an snugged them down, then removed the jack.

7. Done.

One important note is that I have a 2.5" lift with 33" tires. I was just able to fit the new OEM type skid plate under the tank, lift it a bit, and then get my jack under that. Any lower and I would have had to raise up the jeep in some way. I would measure the height of the new skid and then check how high the old skid sits from the ground and add about 2" as you will not get the tank to stay perfectly in place with ratchet straps and it will sag a bit. You may need to park the jeep ontop of some boards. I would try and keep it as level as possible.
 
Why wouldn’t Jeep plan for fuel pump issues or Evap line issues that can be fixed without dropping the gas tank!!
Hardly any automotive engineers seem to consider working on the vehicles they design. I used to drive a 1960 Ford 1/4-ton with a straight 6. I could climb over the fender, straddle the front axle and work on anything in the engine compartment. Definitely liked that truck but no good with a family.
 
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I avoided this thread for a while to just read the comments.

Here’s my take:
Cutting a hole in the tub to avoid dropping the tank is a hillbilly approach to getting a replacement pump OUT of a junked car.

Even they drop the tank on the one they’re keeping.

Buy some wrenches already and be a grown man.
Sack up or buy a Prius.
 
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Don’t take that comment personally DWphillips. That didn’t come from a real Jeeper. Always a couple of Jackasses in every group to deal with! 🍺🍺
 
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