Exhaust Manifold - Bolt Hole

[Islander 2x]

New member - hello all.
I have a 2010 Jeep Wrangler JKU with over 200,000 km.

There was some shoddy repairs by the previous owner that I have been fixing slowly over time.
Decided the small exhaust leak at the rearmost manifold bolt was next. I could feel the stud just below the face of the manifold so I thought I was going to pull it off and have a broken stud to remove.
I don't even know what he tried to do as the piece came off with the manifold - see pic. There wasn't much of anything in the hole itself which was made off center.. He filled it with something that didn't work as the hole in the block is empty, can stick a nail down it, nothing there.

I don't want to tear it down until I try something to repair it, but it has to work properly which to me is years - not months.

I was thinking:
have a welder fill the hole and tap?
put a 2 sided stud in a sleeve and either weld it in, or fill with marine metal or some other product that will hold it in place?
insert of some type?

Thanks for any opinions as I'm sure some of you have been through this.

Located on Vancouver Island in case anyone knows of a mobile machinist or millwright out here.
Thanks

 

[BLACKJKU]

Is all of the broken bolt out of the cyl head, looks kinda like they tried to drill out the broken bolt but wasn't centered and part of it is still there.

 

[Islander 2x]

Hi BLACKJKU
That is likely what that top piece is. I haven't messed with it yet since I don't know how best to approach the repair.

Thanks

 

[BLACKJKU]

Hi BLACKJKU
That is likely what that top piece is. I haven't messed with it yet since I don't know how best to approach the repair.

Thanks

If you can try hitting the top part of the bolt with a hammer and chisel to see it maybe it would break loose.

 

[Islander 2x]

I think he put a small bolt in there in reverse as the shape in the block has straight edges. Maybe tried to use that as a stud which is why it wasn't in very deep.
In any case, not a good idea.

 

[Danarch]

Think there is any option to get the remainder out then tap it to clean it up?

 

[Snowbird Tom]

That head is unrepairable. Time for a replacement.

 

[Islander 2x]

Snowbird Tom - hi. Appreciate the response. What happens if you drill out the entire tapered area? Does it get thin?
Needing 17 lft / lbs isn't that much.
I'm certain I can do something without it leaking as the previous shoddy repair held for 1.5 yrs (or more) as I owned it for that long before it started to leak. I have no idea how long he drove it like that.

Anyone drill the entire tapered area before?

Thanks

 

[Snowbird Tom]

Snowbird Tom - hi. Appreciate the response. What happens if you drill out the entire tapered area? Does it get thin?
Needing 17 lft / lbs isn't that much.
I'm certain I can do something without it leaking as the previous shoddy repair held for 1.5 yrs (or more) as I owned it for that long before it started to leak. I have no idea how long he drove it like that.

Anyone drill the entire tapered area before?

Thanks

There’s coolant passages tight in that area. Going a bit oversize could break thru into one.

 

[Islander 2x]

Thanks for the advice.
I don't want to mess with what is left of the bolt and enlarging the hole if coolant is that close.
I have an idea how to try and make a stud work. I will give it a go as the weather is great, I want my Jeep back.

 

[Acxman]

I would try retapping it as is. Nothing to loose.

 

[Islander 2x]

Update:
I decided to work with the existing hole and ground down a 2 ended stud to fit tight. I was able to get it straight and used tech steel to pack the around the stud. I put on the old gasket but with copper RTV on both sides. It's has been tested with a handful of WOT runs and 6 weeks of daily use and nothing leaks. I went a bit excessive with the copper rtv and couldn't be bothered to follow the mating points. I was in a rush to get it back on the road for the end of summer. I can tell you that I was not able to get the full required torque onto it due to the shape I had to make the stud. I do think it will hold long term. If it doesn't, I will remove the old stud next and shape the end so it would take the full torque.

Anyway - hope this helps someone.
Thanks for everyone's suggestions.

 

[Islander 2x]

Its not pretty, but it works.
Not up to my standards or ability but it will do until this engine needs a rebuild.

 

[BLACKJKU]

Its not pretty, but it works.
Not up to my standards or ability but it will do until this engine needs a rebuild.

Good job most probably would have just bought a new head, thanks for the update.