Brake Upgrades

Dirty Dog said:
Is this a concern based on anything real, or just a gut feeling or anecdotes? I've not been able to find anything other than "my friends cousins neighbor Bob knew a guy who said they heard...".

I did check with one of our kids. His BS is Mechanical Engineering. His MS is in Control Systems Engineering and his PhD is in Railroad Engineering. He investigates derailments, crashes trains, and blows trains up for various government agencies, that sort of thing. His current project is related to the Hyperloop Project. His reply was that surface irregularities add surface area, which is good for cooling, and also potentially add stress concentrators and crack/corrosion initiation points. But he added that he couldn't imagine any real-world circumstance in which a Jeep would be exposed to enough mud/water for a long enough time for it to have any impact. Normal wear will result in replacement long before any theoretical damage from moisture.

The brake experts at places like Baer, Willwood, and Powerstop seem to agree.
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Def Dirtydog Jr. would know what he speaks considering credentials listed above.
While i dont know all the science, common sense would also apply.
At some point in the years past somebody had an issue with drilled/slotted rotors.
It magically made its way through the internet and now its mostly just rumours rather
than science and fact.
Think we all have had good breaks squeak from time to time. Goes away pretty
quick usually.
Dirt Bikes and Side By Sides have been using drilled rotors for years . Last time I checked
they see a lot of mud, dirt & water.
The only real world negative to using a drilled / slotted rotor is the possibility of a crack
starting at one of drill holes.
That can occur on occasion not just with Powerstop. But any brand at any price. So if
Porshe. Ferarri, Brembo etc can live with that risk. Think we in Jeep world will survive
 
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Just to avoid confusion, I am in no way suggesting that one type of rotor is better than another. The science is mostly applicable to high speed driving. On the trail, I am unconvinced that there is any significant performance difference.
 
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I agree that surface irregularities can increase surface area, but a slot isn't an irregularity, it's removal of mass and material. I try to avoid don't mud now, but I have had crap wedged in calipers behind them dust shield lots of different crannies around the rotor. It seem to be worse when I ran slotted rotors but that could have just been coincidence. I don't tow with my Jeep or drive in mountainous terrain. Brake fade hasn't been an issue for me. My opinion, but I don't see the need for slotted and drilled rotors out on the trail if you upgrade to the BBK. The larger diameter rotor and dual piston calipers seem to fit my needs. If I was driving an SCCA car on a track, yeah that makes sense. It just doesn't make sense for me with the way I drive my jeep.
 
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Dirty Dog said:
When you remove mass and material, leaving a slot or a hole or a dimple or anything of the sort, that's an irregularity. By definition.
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Perhaps I should clarify and say contact area. Hey, I'm not the engineer ;)

And we can agree to disagree. My view is anecdotal to others but based on my experience. I would be interested in reading anything that can prove a slotted, drilled rotor is superior to a solid rotor for typical highway driving and low speed trails.
 
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JerryD said:
And we can agree to disagree. My view is anecdotal to others but based on my experience. I would be interested in reading anything that can prove a slotted, drilled rotor is superior to a solid rotor for typical highway driving and low speed trails.
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What are we disagreeing on? I've certainly never made that statement. I very explicitly said that I am NOT making that claim.
 
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Decided on the Powerstop Z36 package. The others are, realistically, overkill for this application. So I will be keeping the OEM calipers, but getting drilled/slotted/plated rotors with ceramic pads. I love the ceramics on the Vette. They can sometimes be a bit squeaky, but not much. And you get a HUGE improvement in stopping power as well as a significant decrease in brake dust. They should arrive tomorrow. Thanks to everyone for their input.
 
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Dirty Dog said:
Decided on the Powerstop Z36 package. The others are, realistically, overkill for this application. So I will be keeping the OEM calipers, but getting drilled/slotted/plated rotors with ceramic pads. I love the ceramics on the Vette. They can sometimes be a bit squeaky, but not much. And you get a HUGE improvement in stopping power as well as a significant decrease in brake dust. They should arrive tomorrow. Thanks to everyone for their input.
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Good choice . While I haven’t had them very long . Haven’t experienced any squeaking . Super quiet with no pulling to either side when putting your foot into it .
Just follow brief break in procedure as outlined on the pad box and you will be good to go .
 
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Dirty Dog said:
Decided on the Powerstop Z36 package. The others are, realistically, overkill for this application. So I will be keeping the OEM calipers, but getting drilled/slotted/plated rotors with ceramic pads. I love the ceramics on the Vette. They can sometimes be a bit squeaky, but not much. And you get a HUGE improvement in stopping power as well as a significant decrease in brake dust. They should arrive tomorrow. Thanks to everyone for their input.
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You want stopping power? Come here and Pilot at 2335, a Moose will give you that. Just Fooling Around, All Good
 
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I recently upgraded the front/rear brakes on my 2017 JKU..man what a difference in stopping..

Fronts from a 2019 JL and rear from a 2020 JT Gladiator..

I have a video on the front brakes...you can see the difference in rotor and caliper size..really makes the stock JK brakes look like they are for a YUGO.

 
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Justjeepit_joe said:
I recently upgraded the front/rear brakes on my 2017 JKU..man what a difference in stopping..

Fronts from a 2019 JL and rear from a 2020 JT Gladiator..

I have a video on the front brakes...you can see the difference in rotor and caliper size..really makes the stock JK brakes look like they are for a YUGO.

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Are the front calipers from the JL dual piston . If so did you have to upgrade master cylinder?
 
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Snowbird Tom said:
There was no mention of a master cylinder swap in the video, but that’s a bunch more fluid to push on a larger caliper with dual pistons.
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Yeah that is what I was thinking if dual piston . It’s one of the main reasons stayed away from the big rotor kits and dual piston calliper .
I think to do those properly have to put in larger master cylinder. Not entirely sure. Didn’t want to get involved with that .
The Z36 works awesome so be am happy
 
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Snowbird Tom said:
Whut? I think you're referring to a bush plane with the Moose comment, but HUH? To borrow an old tv line - 'splain yourself, Loosy! :)
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Loosy will splain. I used to pilot ( and miss flying ) Cessna 150, 152, and 172. So when I am bombing around late at night here ( the JK is loud like a 152 with my Magnaflow) I refer to it as piloting not driving. And it is all bush here, we were taught (not in practice) to stall in the trees if a Forced Landing was required. Not are abundant lakes ( drowning, while knocked out on impact). Good Times
 
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TROY66/68 said:
Loosy will splain. I used to pilot ( and miss flying ) Cessna 150, 152, and 172. So when I am bombing around late at night here ( the JK is loud like a 152 with my Magnaflow) I refer to it as piloting not driving. And it is all bush here, we were taught (not in practice) to stall in the trees if a Forced Landing was required. Not are abundant lakes ( drowning, while knocked out on impact). Good Times
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Retired AF fighter jet mechanic here. Got a few hours in 152s myself. Logged them in N Florida’s panhandle and taught (and practiced to about 10’ above) to use the wet parts of the beach as emergency landing strips. Personally, I’d be hunting an open area if possible, then water, then trees that are way to solid to be forgiving.

Your first post was confusing as no one knows your background and your way of thinking. :) All good?
 
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