Best lift under $1,500?

Bubslipknot101

Bubslipknot101

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Ok everyone,

So, in y'alls opinion, what is the best possible 3.5in or greater suspension lift that's under around $1,500? With or without shocks

Also, I'm looking for a new track bar, steering stabilizer, draglink, and also need either a new tie rod or tie rod ends.

Keep in mind this will be a 70% daily driver.
And I'm looking to spend around $2400 total. I was thinking about this kit.

Rock Krawler 3.5" Mid Arm Flex System Lift Kit | Best Prices & Reviews at Morris 4x4

Rock Krawler 3.5Mid Arm Flex System Lift Kit 2007-2016 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited JK
www.morris4x4center.com www.morris4x4center.com
Any thoughts?

Thanks is in advance everyone! (y)(y)
 
In my opinion there is no better 3.5" lift for the JK for less than $2000 than the AEV 3.5" DualSport lift, plain and simple.

AEV has a stellar reputation in the Jeep community, and having done extensive amounts of research on that lift, it was designed with the daily driver in mind with occasional off-road use. The nice thing about it is that AEV very specifically has stated that they wanted to design a lift that maintained all of the factory ride qualities, but provided a lift.

Having the lift on my JK, I can tell you that this is absolutely true. The lift rides better than stock in every way, and performs flawlessly. It's a bit more than $1500, but to have it installed on my JK Rubicon it cost me $2400 total.

Rock Krawler is nice, but IMHO the AEV lift is a better bet.

It also adds to the resale value of the vehicle better than a Rock Krawler lift IMHO, as AEV is very prestigious in the Jeep community.
 
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Chris said:
In my opinion there is no better 3.5" lift for the JK for less than $2000 than the AEV 3.5" DualSport lift, plain and simple.

AEV has a stellar reputation in the Jeep community, and having done extensive amounts of research on that lift, it was designed with the daily driver in mind with occasional off-road use. The nice thing about it is that AEV very specifically has stated that they wanted to design a lift that maintained all of the factory ride qualities, but provided a lift.

Having the lift on my JK, I can tell you that this is absolutely true. The lift rides better than stock in every way, and performs flawlessly. It's a bit more than $1500, but to have it installed on my JK Rubicon it cost me $2400 total.

Rock Krawler is nice, but IMHO the AEV lift is a better bet.

It also adds to the resale value of the vehicle better than a Rock Krawler lift IMHO, as AEV is very prestigious in the Jeep community.
Click to expand...

So after reviewing the AEV lift, it seems like a good choice. The only thing that I'm not a fan of is that it doesn't come with control arms. I do see that it comes with relocation brackets, but what is the difference in ride quality?

Also, I'm finding their 4.5in for basically the same price. I plan on running 37s after the lift so I may go with that if I decide on the AEV. Any warnings or precautions?
 
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Bubslipknot101 said:
So after reviewing the AEV lift, it seems like a good choice. The only thing that I'm not a fan of is that it doesn't come with control arms. I do see that it comes with relocation brackets, but what is the difference in ride quality?

Also, I'm finding their 4.5in for basically the same price. I plan on running 37s after the lift so I may go with that if I decide on the AEV. Any warnings or precautions?
Click to expand...

You don't need control arms, it has control arm geometry brackets.

Control arms have zero affect on ride quality whatsoever. The geometry relocation brackets put the control arm geometry back to where it should be after raising the vehicle 3.5". If you do a lift without relocation brackets, that's when you're going to notice negative things since your suspension geometry will be out of whack.

Believe me when I say that AEV lift rides better than factory and then some. I was blown away by how well mine rode when I installed it. I couldn't believe it had been lifted 3.5", that's for sure.

If you want to run 37s, then yes, 4.5" would be more ideal. Of course if you're going to run 37s, you'll also want to upgrade your factory brakes to a big brake kit, as you'll be running dangerously on the stock brakes with bigger tires (your stopping distance will be dramatically reduced).

As far as a vehicle that is mostly on-road driven, the AEV kit would be far better than the Rock Krawler kit IMHO. Now if you wanted to build something much more extreme for off-road, then the Rock Krawler lifts would be better.

The AEV kits also include the specially tuned Bilstein shocks, which AEV worked with Bilstein on in terms of getting the valving perfect for the JK. That's one advantage that most other lifts don't have. And believe me, those specially tuned shocks make all the difference in the world.
 
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Chris said:
You don't need control arms, it has control arm geometry brackets.

Control arms have zero affect on ride quality whatsoever. The geometry relocation brackets put the control arm geometry back to where it should be after raising the vehicle 3.5". If you do a lift without relocation brackets, that's when you're going to notice negative things since your suspension geometry will be out of whack.

Believe me when I say that AEV lift rides better than factory and then some. I was blown away by how well mine rode when I installed it. I couldn't believe it had been lifted 3.5", that's for sure.

If you want to run 37s, then yes, 4.5" would be more ideal. Of course if you're going to run 37s, you'll also want to upgrade your factory brakes to a big brake kit, as you'll be running dangerously on the stock brakes with bigger tires (your stopping distance will be dramatically reduced).

As far as a vehicle that is mostly on-road driven, the AEV kit would be far better than the Rock Krawler kit IMHO. Now if you wanted to build something much more extreme for off-road, then the Rock Krawler lifts would be better.

The AEV kits also include the specially tuned Bilstein shocks, which AEV worked with Bilstein on in terms of getting the valving perfect for the JK. That's one advantage that most other lifts don't have. And believe me, those specially tuned shocks make all the difference in the world.
Click to expand...

Awesome, I think that'll settle it for me. I appreciate all the help Chris.

One last thing. So you know where I could find an upgraded brake kit?
 
Chris said:
In my opinion there is no better 3.5" lift for the JK for less than $2000 than the AEV 3.5" DualSport lift, plain and simple.

AEV has a stellar reputation in the Jeep community, and having done extensive amounts of research on that lift, it was designed with the daily driver in mind with occasional off-road use. The nice thing about it is that AEV very specifically has stated that they wanted to design a lift that maintained all of the factory ride qualities, but provided a lift.

Having the lift on my JK, I can tell you that this is absolutely true. The lift rides better than stock in every way, and performs flawlessly. It's a bit more than $1500, but to have it installed on my JK Rubicon it cost me $2400 total.

Rock Krawler is nice, but IMHO the AEV lift is a better bet.

It also adds to the resale value of the vehicle better than a Rock Krawler lift IMHO, as AEV is very prestigious in the Jeep community.
Click to expand...
X2
 
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Bubslipknot101 said:
Awesome, I think that'll settle it for me. I appreciate all the help Chris.

One last thing. So you know where I could find an upgraded brake kit?
Click to expand...

This is the one I highly recommend:

JK Big Brake Kit 2007 - 2012

JK Big Brake Kit 2007 - 2012, 2007 JK Big Brake Kit, 2008 JK Big Brake Kit
shop.blackmagicbrakes.com shop.blackmagicbrakes.com

Blaine is THE brake guru. I've used a number of his big brake kits on my old TJs and absolutely loved them.
 
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Ok, so the AEV 4.5 Dualsport has com in! I'll be doing the install soon. Also bought some 37" tires as well. Question now is: Going from 35's to 37's, am I going to need any wheel spacers for the new tires to properly fit? I'm not sure of the offset but a pic of the rim is attached.

Also, Just to give a little more info on my Jeep: I have 4.88 gears, TrueTrak limited Slip on my rear end, and Chromoly front axles.

RIM.jpg
 
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Congrats on the lift, you'll love it (I love my AEV lift).

As for wheel spacers, you shouldn't need them assuming these are 12.5" wide and your 35s before were 12.5" wide.

Post pictures once it's all done!
 
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Chris said:
Congrats on the lift, you'll love it (I love my AEV lift).

As for wheel spacers, you should need them assuming these are 12.5" wide and your 35s before were 12.5" wide.

Post pictures once it's all done!
Click to expand...

Thanks! And will do. I added an "edit" to my latest comment while you were replying, in case you didn't see it and in case it matters.
(y)(y)

Also, did you mean "Shouldn't"?
 
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Bubslipknot101 said:
I'd like to think so, but they looked a little small when I put 'em on. They're MudClaw 37x12.5R17's. Bought some cheap/used tires ride around on for a couple of months.
Click to expand...

Sounds like my BFG KO2s. BFG claims they measure 34.4". However, I measured them with 35 psi, brand spankin' new (I measured the spare while it was mounted on the tailgate) and it measured at 33.3" exactly. Over an inch smaller than BFG claims! Talk about depressing.
 
Chris said:
Sounds like my BFG KO2s. BFG claims they measure 34.4". However, I measured them with 35 psi, brand spankin' new (I measured the spare while it was mounted on the tailgate) and it measured at 33.3" exactly. Over an inch smaller than BFG claims! Talk about depressing.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I was expecting more before I put 'em on. Kinda took the air out of my tires, if you know what I mean....😶😶

Buuuuut I just found this thread from another forum that's interesting. Apparently that's how they all are. It seems like even the 40's are getting up to around 38".
wayalife.com

The Ultimate TRUE TIRE SIZE Database

Before I get this started, it needs to be made clear that when it comes to things like lift kits and tires you can run with them, EVERY manufacturer, shop and person in the industry will always refer to what is written on the sidewall and NOT the true height of the tire. In other words, if a...
wayalife.com wayalife.com

EDIT:
The more I look it seems that the 37" Toyo M/T's measure up to 37" or incredibly close to it.
 
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Bubslipknot101 said:
Yeah, I was expecting more before I put 'em on. Kinda took the air out of my tires, if you know what I mean....😶😶

Buuuuut I just found this thread from another forum that's interesting. Apparently that's how they all are. It seems like even the 40's are getting up to around 38".
wayalife.com

The Ultimate TRUE TIRE SIZE Database

Before I get this started, it needs to be made clear that when it comes to things like lift kits and tires you can run with them, EVERY manufacturer, shop and person in the industry will always refer to what is written on the sidewall and NOT the true height of the tire. In other words, if a...
wayalife.com wayalife.com

EDIT:
The more I look it seems that the 37" Toyo M/T's measure up to 37" or incredibly close to it.
Click to expand...

Yes, that's why I tell most people that in real world measurements, a 37" is actually a 35", and a 35" is actually a 33". Or close to it at least!

There are some exceptions. Coopers for one are known to be pretty true to size, and it sounds like Toyo might be as well.
 
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Chris said:
Yes, that's why I tell most people that in real world measurements, a 37" is actually a 35", and a 35" is actually a 33". Or close to it at least!

There are some exceptions. Coopers for one are known to be pretty true to size, and it sounds like Toyo might be as well.
Click to expand...
I think I will be getting Toyo Open Country for my next set (I can get them at cost ;)) and if i remember I will measure them when I get them.
 
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