Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler JK engine mounts

3.6 Pentastar Misfire on Cylinders 1, 3, & 5

Rdartua said:
Left a message - hopefully he will get back, I believe his name is David
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Hope you find some resolve. Im still always amazed at how we can discover people from miles away in a different state or even country, with social platforms (even this one) and share ideas and solutions in real time.

Keep us posted 👍
 
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I am kind of torn - invested so much time into the car - trading it in will be like pretty much giving up. Not used to that feeling
 
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Rdartua said:
I am kind of torn - invested so much time into the car - trading it in will be like pretty much giving up. Not used to that feeling
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The way I see it, you sell it at a loss and pay more OR, just drop 5 to 6k and you're back in business. Either way, you'll be coming out of pocket. I imagine more if going for another vehicle. And that goes for either if it's new or old. Im on the fence about it myself. Everything is astronomical at the moment.
 
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David suggested to pull rockers, said he sees them failing across the board causing sporadic misfires.
I checked them - but no way to be 100% sure unless you pull them completely out. Sooo, considering that rout, will see, did not have a chance to talk to him yet - he texted me.
 
Rdartua said:
David suggested to pull rockers, said he sees them failing across the board causing sporadic misfires.
I checked them - but no way to be 100% sure unless you pull them completely out. Sooo, considering that rout, will see, did not have a chance to talk to him yet - he texted me.
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Those shit rockers! They've been updated by Mopar a few times since the 3.6 hit the Wrangler market. Who knows what revision they're on now. Its ridiculous, really. I changed all 24 of mine in August because of noisy ticking.
 
Yeah, If I am tearing into this thing this deep , I will replace all rockers and lifters regardless of if they are good or bad.
Its another $250 i can get them for. OEM parts. Just really hope thats the issue. Hate to dump more time and cash into this rig and find out its something else and will end up replacing whole engine. Which logically should be hemi.
 
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Rdartua said:
Yeah, If I am tearing into this thing this deep , I will replace all rockers and lifters regardless of if they are good or bad.
Its another $250 i can get them for. OEM parts. Just really hope thats the issue. Hate to dump more time and cash into this rig and find out its something else and will end up replacing whole engine. Which logically should be hemi.
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Oh ya but a Hemi is basically buying another vehicle. The cost is also a mindf#ck. If it wasnt in the 20k price range, Id have done it too. And I sure as hell can't DIY it as a solo flyer.

Yah, change them all out. That certainly includes lifters. If you have the correct tools, time and space it can be done at home. Dealers like to charge upwards of $3,600 for the work. At that cost Id do a new engine with a warranty.
 
Nah I am pretty self reliant, would not go to the dealer unless it was not explainable. And $500 fee I paid is a kick in the face for doubting my own skills - basically they told me same thing that I told them - and I came out with net zero. Actually make it net - $500 Just need right sockets and descent torq wrench. Seen plenty of vids on replacement. Ordering AH revision - which is the latest. Both rockers and lifters. Will see. Still want to confirm with David one more time.
 
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So just off the phone with dealer mech, and the guy is saying that the jeep now throws p000d and p018 codes, Cam position slow response. He is suggesting that I double check the timing chain - meaning put into certain position to see if everything allignes perfectly. Not exactly sure if its possible without removing timing chain cover, or even how to do it.
 
And then the question begs if I am going under timing cover - do I replace the chain and tensioners as well???
 
Rdartua said:
So just off the phone with dealer mech, and the guy is saying that the jeep now throws p000d and p018 codes, Cam position slow response. He is suggesting that I double check the timing chain - meaning put into certain position to see if everything allignes perfectly. Not exactly sure if its possible without removing timing chain cover, or even how to do it.
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You'll have to pull the cover unfortunately to check it.

Here's a great video on checking the timing marks

 
Yea, saw this one, this guys is actually next to me in Long Island. Regardless, just bought oem rockers and lifters 24 and 24. once I pull both rocker covers and align the cams with halls on top in all 4 cams - would it not mean that timing is set properly?
 
Rdartua said:
Yea, saw this one, this guys is actually next to me in Long Island. Regardless, just bought oem rockers and lifters 24 and 24. once I pull both rocker covers and align the cams with halls on top in all 4 cams - would it not mean that timing is set properly?
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There are timing marks on the crank shaft too.
 
I wonder if there is a way to get behind the chain cover with a borescope camera to see the timing alignment notch...
will see - its a major repair. I guess after this amazing experience I should not be afraid to buy bmw, lol. Though at this point I think its more reliable then Jeeps
 
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Rdartua said:
I wonder if there is a way to get behind the chain cover with a borescope camera to see the timing alignment notch...
will see - its a major repair. I guess after this amazing experience I should not be afraid to buy bmw, lol. Though at this point I think its more reliable then Jeeps
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You may be able to snake it up if you drop the oil pan. That would be good to do anyway in case anything is in there flopping around.

You could also have a bad tensioner or one of the plastic chain guides could be in pieces.

There are 4 bolts I think where the oil pan bolts into the front cover. Besides, if you remove the fan shroud it's not hard to pull the cover.

LoL no they're not, I know, my wife has a mini. I'm surprised you don't have to drop the subframe to change the oil.
 
Vman said:
You may be able to snake it up if you drop the oil pan. That would be good to do anyway in case anything is in there flopping around.

You could also have a bad tensioner or one of the plastic chain guides could be in pieces.

There are 4 bolts I think where the oil pan bolts into the front cover. Besides, if you remove the fan shroud it's not hard to pull the cover.

LoL no they're not, I know, my wife has a mini. I'm surprised you don't have to drop the subframe to change the oil.
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Thats a great idea - will drop oil pen first, especially due to the fact that it has a tiny leak. Thanks.
 
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Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler JK engine mounts
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