2017 gear shift lever on 2007

72c10

JK Enthusiast
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Jul 8, 2020
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Location
Utah
Feel the difference! May want to try this if you don't want to spend $700 on a B&M short shifter.

So, I went into the Jeep dealership to get a PCV valve for my 2007 JKU. The local/well-known to the local Jeep community parts guy helped me. He used to have a 2010 JK manual and we got to talking about gearing, ect. Then it reminded me I needed a lower/inner shift boot for my manual NSG370. It's been ripped since I bought my Jeep a couple of years ago.

He ordered me a lower shift boot. I was telling him that I'd have to order a new shift knob because I couldn't get the damn thing off last year when I wanted to change the upper boot to a leather one AND I need to take it off to install the new lower boot.

He then proceeded to tell me that he put a 2017 gear shift lever on his 2010 and it made a HUGE difference. He stated a few things:

1. It was stiffer and did not shake as much, maybe do to the isolator at the end where you bolt it (T45 torx) to the shift tower.

2. ERGONOMICS: he said that it was way more comfortable to drive, without having to go way to the right for 6th gear and hitting your passenger's leg when you shift into reverse.

3. His Jeep popped out of 1st gear on a slight occasion and it didn't after the replacement. I have it occasionally too, but I think only once since I regeared from 3.21 to 4.56 gears (don't know if that has a correlation.

So, I went home and researched it. Looks like there is a drastic difference in the way the gear shifter bent. And, I just trusted him with his results. I called him up and he ordered them (gear shift lever and knob).

Picked them up today (lower boot, shift lever, knob (gotta order a 12-17 knob also, because it won't fit the 07-10)).

I had to use a (don't laugh) jig saw to break the knob apart and take it off. See pic below, bitch was thrashed and it seemed as if it was glued on. I tried everything before... Every method on YouTube, except for the guy that used a rope and a hoist. That shit is just crazy.

The rest of the install was easy, 10 min max.

The new knob is also nice with a grey background.

Holy smokes, what a difference!!!!! Here's what I noticed:

SHIFTING: More solid and deliberate. I feel the gears a lot better going into gear when shifting.

ISOLATOR: I couldn't visually tell the difference from the new to the old one. But it feels a hell of a lot different - TREMENDOUSLY LESS VIBRATION FROM THE KNOB/SHIFTER LEVER, SOFT - BUT FIRM FEEL.

KNOB/SHIFTER POSITION: Before, if I had a bottle of water in the cup holder closest to the shifter, I'd be on top of the bottle cap in 6th gear. Now, in 6th, I'm about 2" to the left of it. The knob is closer to me (by about 2") and it makes a world of difference in a good way *insert "that's what she said" jokes here*

SHIFTING: Feels more positive, smoother and deliberate, maybe even shorter... but, that might be in my head. Although the isolator where it connects to the shift tower looks and feels the same as my old one, it's definitely better.

Oh, and if your lower shift boot is torn inside of your outer shift boot - it's about $30 at the dealership and it's so much quieter now.

I used to want a B&M short shifter, but for the now $700 after COVID inflation, I'll pass. This under $100 upgrade may do the trick for a while 😀

Pic 1: The part/part number.

Pic 2: The gear shift lever/knob installed.

Pic 3: The cut up knob that wouldn't come off. If you try to take yours off with a few good yanks and can't get it - CUT IT and buy a new one - it'll cost less than taking ibuprofen for a while when you pull your back out 🤣🤣. It should come out with a quick, firm twist and pull. I accidentally put the new one on and forgot to put the boot on.. got too excited. Came right out.

Screenshot_20220221-202400~2.png


IMG_20220221_195624.jpg


IMG_20220221_172739.jpg
 
Last edited:
Feel the difference! May want to try this if you don't want to spend $700 on a B&M short shifter.

So, I went into the Jeep dealership to get a PCV valve for my 2007 JKU. The local/well-known to the local Jeep community parts guy helped me. He used to have a 2010 JK manual and we got to talking about gearing, ect. Then it reminded me I needed a lower/inner shift boot for my manual NSG370. It's been ripped since I bought my Jeep a couple of years ago.

He ordered me a lower shift boot. I was telling him that I'd have to order a new shift knob because I couldn't get the damn thing off last year when I wanted to change the upper boot to a leather one AND I need to take it off to install the new lower boot.

He then proceeded to tell me that he put a 2017 gear shift lever on his 2010 and it made a HUGE difference. He stated a few things:

1. It was stiffer and did not shake as much, maybe do to the isolator at the end where you bolt it (T45 torx) to the shift tower.

2. ERGONOMICS: he said that it was way more comfortable to drive, without having to go way to the right for 6th gear and hitting your passenger's leg when you shift into reverse.

3. His Jeep popped out of 1st gear on a slight occasion and it didn't after the replacement. I have it occasionally too, but I think only once since I regeared from 3.21 to 4.56 gears (don't know if that has a correlation.

So, I went home and researched it. Looks like there is a drastic difference in the way the gear shifter bent. And, I just trusted him with his results. I called him up and he ordered them (gear shift lever and knob).

Picked them up today (lower boot, shift lever, knob (gotta order a 12-17 knob also, because it won't fit the 07-10)).

I had to use a (don't laugh) jig saw to break the knob apart and take it off. See pic below, bitch was thrashed and it seemed as if it was glued on. I tried everything before... Every method on YouTube, except for the guy that used a rope and a hoist. That shit is just crazy.

The rest of the install was easy, 10 min max.

The new knob is also nice with a grey background.

Holy smokes, what a difference!!!!! Here's what I noticed:

SHIFTING: More solid and deliberate. I feel the gears a lot better going into gear when shifting.

ISOLATOR: I couldn't visually tell the difference from the new to the old one. But it feels a hell of a lot different - TREMENDOUSLY LESS VIBRATION FROM THE KNOB/SHIFTER LEVER, SOFT - BUT FIRM FEEL.

KNOB/SHIFTER POSITION: Before, if I had a bottle of water in the cup holder closest to the shifter, I'd be on top of the bottle cap in 6th gear. Now, in 6th, I'm about 2" to the left of it. The knob is closer to me (by about 2") and it makes a world of difference in a good way *insert "that's what she said" jokes here*

SHIFTING: Feels more positive, smoother and deliberate, maybe even shorter... but, that might be in my head. Although the isolator where it connects to the shift tower looks and feels the same as my old one, it's definitely better.

Oh, and if your lower shift boot is torn inside of your outer shift boot - it's about $30 at the dealership and it's so much quieter now.

I used to want a B&M short shifter, but for the now $700 after COVID inflation, I'll pass. This under $100 upgrade may do the trick for a while 😀

Pic 1: The part/part number.

Pic 2: The gear shift lever/knob installed.

Pic 3: The cut up knob that wouldn't come off. If you try to take yours off with a few good yanks and can't get it - CUT IT and buy a new one - it'll cost less than taking ibuprofen for a while when you pull your back out 🤣🤣. It should come out with a quick, firm twist and pull. I accidentally put the new one on and forgot to put the boot on.. got too excited. Came right out.

View attachment 120601

View attachment 120602

View attachment 120603

LoL I love how you went caveman on that shift knob.

Great writeup for our manual folks!
 
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Oh, this is tempting.
Next to my gearing change, this has been my favorite upgrade so far.

Makes me wonder if the isolators in our old shift levers get worn or something. But, if you were to get a new one, might as well get it from a 17. The ergonomics are so much better than 2010 and older... drastically.
 
LoL I love how you went caveman on that shift knob.

Great writeup for our manual folks!
There was no choice. Been trying to get it off for a YEAR. I think it may have come loose in the past or something and the previous owner glued it maybe. Since I had a new one, I even took channel locks and got western on it... I'm not the weakest guy either.

The sawzall was too dangerous, it was flinging the gear shifter out of gear. Went to the jigsaw and it was like a smooth surgery.... then I took the channel locks and broke things to get it off. The rest of the install took 5-10 min.
 
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There was no choice. Been trying to get it off for a YEAR. I think it may have come loose in the past or something and the previous owner glued it maybe. Since I had a new one, I even took channel locks and got western on it... I'm not the weakest guy either.

The sawzall was too dangerous, it was flinging the gear shifter out of gear. Went to the jigsaw and it was like a smooth surgery.... then I took the channel locks and broke things to get it off. The rest of the install took 5-10 min.

It's pretty funny because you can take one look at that knob and tell that it was really pissing you off :ROFLMAO:

I joke because we've all been there. I punched myself in the face once pulling the 4x4 knob off lol
 
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For the Amazon shoppers the shifter



The knob

That's great info and price! Now, if you know or have a good relationship with the parts guy at the Jeep dealership, see what he/she can get it to you for, I was about 20% less than that. But, I am only about 5 min. away. Free shipping from Amazon and if I lived 30 min away... I'd pay to save the hassle.
 
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Feel the difference! May want to try this if you don't want to spend $700 on a B&M short shifter.

So, I went into the Jeep dealership to get a PCV valve for my 2007 JKU. The local/well-known to the local Jeep community parts guy helped me. He used to have a 2010 JK manual and we got to talking about gearing, ect. Then it reminded me I needed a lower/inner shift boot for my manual NSG370. It's been ripped since I bought my Jeep a couple of years ago.

He ordered me a lower shift boot. I was telling him that I'd have to order a new shift knob because I couldn't get the damn thing off last year when I wanted to change the upper boot to a leather one AND I need to take it off to install the new lower boot.

He then proceeded to tell me that he put a 2017 gear shift lever on his 2010 and it made a HUGE difference. He stated a few things:

1. It was stiffer and did not shake as much, maybe do to the isolator at the end where you bolt it (T45 torx) to the shift tower.

2. ERGONOMICS: he said that it was way more comfortable to drive, without having to go way to the right for 6th gear and hitting your passenger's leg when you shift into reverse.

3. His Jeep popped out of 1st gear on a slight occasion and it didn't after the replacement. I have it occasionally too, but I think only once since I regeared from 3.21 to 4.56 gears (don't know if that has a correlation.

So, I went home and researched it. Looks like there is a drastic difference in the way the gear shifter bent. And, I just trusted him with his results. I called him up and he ordered them (gear shift lever and knob).

Picked them up today (lower boot, shift lever, knob (gotta order a 12-17 knob also, because it won't fit the 07-10)).

I had to use a (don't laugh) jig saw to break the knob apart and take it off. See pic below, bitch was thrashed and it seemed as if it was glued on. I tried everything before... Every method on YouTube, except for the guy that used a rope and a hoist. That shit is just crazy.

The rest of the install was easy, 10 min max.

The new knob is also nice with a grey background.

Holy smokes, what a difference!!!!! Here's what I noticed:

SHIFTING: More solid and deliberate. I feel the gears a lot better going into gear when shifting.

ISOLATOR: I couldn't visually tell the difference from the new to the old one. But it feels a hell of a lot different - TREMENDOUSLY LESS VIBRATION FROM THE KNOB/SHIFTER LEVER, SOFT - BUT FIRM FEEL.

KNOB/SHIFTER POSITION: Before, if I had a bottle of water in the cup holder closest to the shifter, I'd be on top of the bottle cap in 6th gear. Now, in 6th, I'm about 2" to the left of it. The knob is closer to me (by about 2") and it makes a world of difference in a good way *insert "that's what she said" jokes here*

SHIFTING: Feels more positive, smoother and deliberate, maybe even shorter... but, that might be in my head. Although the isolator where it connects to the shift tower looks and feels the same as my old one, it's definitely better.

Oh, and if your lower shift boot is torn inside of your outer shift boot - it's about $30 at the dealership and it's so much quieter now.

I used to want a B&M short shifter, but for the now $700 after COVID inflation, I'll pass. This under $100 upgrade may do the trick for a while 😀

Pic 1: The part/part number.

Pic 2: The gear shift lever/knob installed.

Pic 3: The cut up knob that wouldn't come off. If you try to take yours off with a few good yanks and can't get it - CUT IT and buy a new one - it'll cost less than taking ibuprofen for a while when you pull your back out 🤣🤣. It should come out with a quick, firm twist and pull. I accidentally put the new one on and forgot to put the boot on.. got too excited. Came right out.

View attachment 120601

View attachment 120602

View attachment 120603
Do you know if the 2017 is different then the 2015? From the picture looks like the shifter is a little more to the drivers side, is that correct?
 
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Do you know if the 2017 is different then the 2015? From the picture looks like the shifter is a little more to the drivers side, is that co

Do you know if the 2017 is different then the 2015? From the picture looks like the shifter is a little more to the drivers side, is that correct?
It does swing to the left a bit. The biggest difference I saw was my original bent back toward the cab and the new one bends back, then upward again and to the left.

Yours in your '15 may be the part # that ends in 63AB if it goes just bends straight back and the one I got for mine, which are available for most year JKs now on a parts list, ends in a 64AG (I think the G stands for "gooder" or an updated part). My parts man put one on his from a '17, which he noticed the difference, so that's what he ordered me.

I drove it again today and it's so much better.... but, at the end of the day, it's still an NSG370 😔
 
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