2015 JK Engine noise

kbar691 said:
@Threepointsix Well, the tech at first said lifter. I let them know all that was replaced. They looked and confirmed all good. So now they say crank arm and needs a motor. At that point I am out of my league and would love to hear suggestions.
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Those bastards.....they almost always default to a "new motor"as the fix. I've read it on forums all too often. Sorry, man, really. I would be completely shitty about it too.

Crank arm, Im guessing, is the same as the crank shaft which is deep in the engine. My suggestion is to call all the local machine shops within your radius and find one that does rebuilds. I found one close to me so if ever I need to (hopefully never) I've got a spot.

The reality is the 1st and 2nd "gen", as I've heard them called, 3.6 is a work in progress engine. I'll never buy another vehicle that utilizes it.

Worst case / best case, you can trade it in with the current market and still get a premium. I would suggest Vroom or CarMax and the like because they dont play games and their process is quick.

Keep us posted with what you decide and I wish you a good outcome.
 
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Threepointsix said:
Those bastards.....they almost always default to a "new motor"as the fix. I've read it on forums all too often. Sorry, man, really. I would be completely shitty about it too.

Crank arm, Im guessing, is the same as the crank shaft which is deep in the engine. My suggestion is to call all the local machine shops within your radius and find one that does rebuilds. I found one close to me so if ever I need to (hopefully never) I've got a spot.

The reality is the 1st and 2nd "gen", as I've heard them called, 3.6 is a work in progress engine. I'll never buy another vehicle that utilizes it.

Worst case / best case, you can trade it in with the current market and still get a premium. I would suggest Vroom or CarMax and the like because they dont play games and their process is quick.

Keep us posted with what you decide and I wish you a good outcome.
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I will keep you posted I am guessing they default to replace as pulling the motor, rebuilding and replacing probably near washes in cost. I do not know that for certain. I have a lot of info gathering to do. Just ready for this nightmare to be over. Just Empty Every Pocket…..Jeep.
 
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kbar691 said:
I will keep you posted I am guessing they default to replace as pulling the motor, rebuilding and replacing probably near washes in cost. I do not know that for certain. I have a lot of info gathering to do. Just ready for this nightmare to be over. Just Empty Every Pocket…..Jeep.
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Man that sucks! If ya don't do anything, Let the motor grenade and do a motor swap!
 
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JeepJeezy said:
Man that sucks! If ya don't do anything, Let the motor grenade and do a motor swap!
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I am really thinking about that. My only concern is my son will be the primary driver and he is due to get a license in July. May not be the safest thing to do.

It is odd to me that 3 different places say top end. When the dealership looked at it after realizing it is not too end it is automatically crank shaft and motor. Seems to me that there could be timing chain, oil pump and who knows what else. You step on the gas and the tick stops. Drive it and get it warm and the tick stops. If it had a bad bearing on the crank I would think the noise gets louder with rpm. At least it did on the vehicle I owned that had a rod knock.

One thing I do know is you can throw a shitload of money at fixing nickels and dimes and wish you would have purchased a motor.
 
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BLACKJKU said:
Jeep isn't the only vehicle with the problem Chrysler cars and trucks use the same engine also.
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Oh 100%, not only the Jeep but the Durango, Chargers, min van (forget the name) but it's all here:

tuningpro.co

The 4 Most Common FCA Pentastar 3.6L Engine Problems

Learn about the 3.6L V6 Pentastar engine. 3.6 Pentastar reliability and common problems including the cylinder head, rocker arms, & oil pump.
tuningpro.co tuningpro.co

The comments are epic!
 
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Threepointsix said:
Oh 100%, not only the Jeep but the Durango, Chargers, min van (forget the name) but it's all here:

tuningpro.co

The 4 Most Common FCA Pentastar 3.6L Engine Problems

Learn about the 3.6L V6 Pentastar engine. 3.6 Pentastar reliability and common problems including the cylinder head, rocker arms, & oil pump.
tuningpro.co tuningpro.co

The comments are epic!
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Yeah. I didn’t fully do my research before purchase. I had a garage look it over and the only thing they said is it needs oil change and transmission service. Wasn’t making the noise then. But I can say if I would have read the forums I sure as hell would not have purchased a dodge, Chrysler, jeep or any vehicle with a 3.6l pentastar.
 
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kbar691 said:
You step on the gas and the tick stops. Drive it and get it warm and the tick stops. If it had a bad bearing on the crank I would think the noise gets louder with rpm.
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This is why I suspect it's an exhaust leak. I know you said you searched bu none were found. I couldn't find the leak on my XJ. But replacing the exhaust gasket and re-torquing the manifold bolts after a few miles fixed the problem.

Replacing the exhaust gasket is a lot cheaper than a new engine.
 
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GP Noir said:
This is why I suspect it's an exhaust leak. I know you said you searched bu none were found. I couldn't find the leak on my XJ. But replacing the exhaust gasket and re-torquing the manifold bolts after a few miles fixed the problem.

Replacing the exhaust gasket is a lot cheaper than a new engine.
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Amen to that. It is weird. When it is fully warm as you come up to a stop sign the tick appears as you are passing through the low 30s in oil pressure. Gets below 28 psi and noise goes away. If it is making the noise at idle it takes less than 100 rpm to make it go away. Cannot be crank shaft.
 
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By now Would have either got rid of it or just turn the stereo up. If it is a rod or main bearing it will get louder and constant. If it is a exhaust leak it will get worse and be easier to find. What ever the noise is will show it self sooner or later. Either way a new engine is the worst case.
 
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mrjp said:
By now Would have either got rid of it or just turn the stereo up. If it is a rod or main bearing it will get louder and constant. If it is a exhaust leak it will get worse and be easier to find. What ever the noise is will show it self sooner or later. Either way a new engine is the worst case.
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Slept on it. That is exactly what to do. Drive it like I stole it. It will either get worse and make locating easier or just tick to the end of time.

Best part was when I had the mechanic from the dealer on the phone I was grilling him on why he was sure it was s crank shaft with all the info I have given. And he was sorta fielding the questions ok. But he completely fell on his ass when I asked…..if this was your jeep would you put a new motor in it. Hehe. At first he was silent. Then he started backpedaling like a politician.
 
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kbar691 said:
Slept on it. That is exactly what to do. Drive it like I stole it. It will either get worse and make locating easier or just tick to the end of time.

Best part was when I had the mechanic from the dealer on the phone I was grilling him on why he was sure it was s crank shaft with all the info I have given. And he was sorta fielding the questions ok. But he completely fell on his ass when I asked…..if this was your jeep would you put a new motor in it. Hehe. At first he was silent. Then he started backpedaling like a politician.
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He would be making more money by selling you a new engine.
 
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Im not even kidding when I say there is no dealership you can trust. That is their main purpose— to raise the bottom line. They upsell constantly.

And I do take my commuter car to a dealershit when I find a coupon for an oil change. But I immediately advise the service rep that Im there only for an oil change and dont want anything else looked at or be told that it "needs" anything. But will take the 'free' carwash. 😂
 
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BLACKJKU said:
He would be making more money by selling you a new engine, I just went through the same thing on my 14. Do your self a favor and pull the oil pan. If theres metal frags/shavings, you’re basically screwed.
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My 14 had the exact same thing. It was coming from behind the timing chain. Supports, guides/bearing. Pull the pan.
It will tell if your issue is deep within.
It cost me a new engine. Repairs exceeded
cost vs replacement. When it finally goes it’ll leave you stranded.
 
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Blackhawk6 said:
My 14 had the exact same thing. It was coming from behind the timing chain. Supports, guides/bearing. Pull the pan.
It will tell if your issue is deep within.
It cost me a new engine. Repairs exceeded
cost vs replacement. When it finally goes it’ll leave you stranded.
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Blackhawk6, so what was wrong behind the timing chain? I know this is an old thread, but i have the same kinda tick. Silent when cold and ticks when warm
 
Blackhawk6 said:
My 14 had the exact same thing. It was coming from behind the timing chain. Supports, guides/bearing. Pull the pan.
It will tell if your issue is deep within.
It cost me a new engine. Repairs exceeded
cost vs replacement. When it finally goes it’ll leave you stranded.
Click to expand...
Blackhawk6, so what was wrong behind the timing chain? I know this is an old thread, but i have the same kinda tick. Silent when cold and ticks when warm
 
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