2014 JKU bogging down when passing on highway after warmed up

MarcSc1

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Jun 9, 2022
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25
Location
Pennsylvania
Hello. I'm new to this forum but familiar with JKUs. I have a '14, auto trans on 35s. I'm at hwy speeds (abt 65mph) and I step on it to pass and the engine feels like it ....well....shuts off. I let of the gas pedal, and it's fine. If I mash the pedal like I'm gonna pass a car again, it bogs down and the RPMs drop to less than 1200-1000 and it kinda sputters. If I baby her and drive slow and no hard acceleration, it's ok. No CEL, no pending codes. I changed the Crank sensor, and I also changed the left rear wheel speed sensor (as I did have a stored code for that sensor.) Trans fluid is red and at the right level. I cleaned the Injen CAI filter and also cleaned the MAF temp sensor. Idk what else to do. It only seems to do it when she is warmed up on my way to and home from work on the hwy after about 10-15 miles of driving. I live in PA and I was planning on going to OBX NC in a little over a month and a half so...... I gotta get this diagnosed and figured out at the least before my trip. Anyone have any insight or any similar issues and what fixed it? Thanks!!
 
I don't have any underhood insulation. I saw a YouTube video on that. My air filter box is an Injen and it is kind of sealed off so that even if I did have insulation on the underside of my hood, it wouldn't get sucked in. But thanks for the tip. I wish it was that simple.
 

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I don't have any underhood insulation. I saw a YouTube video on that. My air filter box is an Injen and it is kind of sealed off so that even if I did have insulation on the underside of my hood, it wouldn't get sucked in. But thanks for the tip. I wish it was that simple.

Did it start doing it shortly after getting some fuel? Maybe some water was in the gas and it's plugging up the filter some.
 
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I thought the same thing. I have since used a can of BG44k and I have ran about 5-6 tanks of $90 super(93 octane) through it as well. I used to run super in it all the time and ever since the gas is through the roof, I've been using regular. And it kinda started happening around that time. But I thought this engine was designed to run on 87 octane?? I'll try to run some HEET through it and see what happens but I doubt that's it bc it'd be happening all the time.
 
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Have you cleaned your air filter lately? Maybe when the tank gets low again put a 1/2 tank of the good stuff back in just to see if that's the problem.
 
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Have you cleaned your air filter lately? Maybe when the tank gets low again put a 1/2 tank of the good stuff back in just to see if that's the problem.
Yes. I actually took everything apart earlier this evening. It wasn't filthy but there was a decent amount of debris and dirt in it. I also cleaned the T body while it was apart. It wasn't that dirty either. I have 79k on it so it's not really due for plugs yet, but I figured it can't hurt to change them but, still...it only does it after it's been driven for abt 10-15 miles. Quick trips to the store or soccer field for kids practice it's great and acts normal. Very frustrating.
 
Possibly fuel pressure regulator or air flow sensor ? This is one of those issues that can be a bitch to fig out . Cause at this point could be fuel, electrical or maybe even a transmission problem . When "stomping " on it should drop down a gear or two when passing etc. But it's not . It might be best to bring into a shop .
 
Have you put an OBD on to see if the engine is throwing any codes? Both of my post-catalytic convertor sensors had to be replaced, and the OBD spotted it easily. Maybe some Sea Foam will help clean up any deposits or other fuel system fouling, since the problem appears when you stress the engine.
 
I have a nice handheld scanner which allows me to view live readings from the sensors, check n clear dtcs, and it actually has the repair manual on it as well. Links up with my WiFi. Anyway, there are absolutely ZERO codes which blows my mind. I ran a can of BG44K through the tank. I have been using that liquid gold for years now on all my vehicles and it works great. However, i have heard of Seafoam, but have never used it. I will buy a canister of the wonder foam and give it a try. I hear it's pretty good at removing gunk from the injection system and build-up in the cylinders and valves. Thanks for the tip. I'll check back in and let u know the results!! 🤘
 
I have a nice handheld scanner which allows me to view live readings from the sensors, check n clear dtcs, and it actually has the repair manual on it as well. Links up with my WiFi. Anyway, there are absolutely ZERO codes which blows my mind. I ran a can of BG44K through the tank. I have been using that liquid gold for years now on all my vehicles and it works great. However, i have heard of Seafoam, but have never used it. I will buy a canister of the wonder foam and give it a try. I hear it's pretty good at removing gunk from the injection system and build-up in the cylinders and valves. Thanks for the tip. I'll check back in and let u know the results!! 🤘
I've used Seafoam for years. On my WJ I ran a can every time I changed my oil. I owned it for 12 years. I changed my fuel filter at 180,000 miles. I was curious so i cut it open. I couldn't believe how good it still looked! Never had a need to have the motor apart so im not sure how clean the pistons looked. I can only speculate everything was good since i had zero issues. So I started running Seafoam in my JK when I bought it too.
 
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One posswibility would be that you are running slightly too rich at high revs and load. That would suggest there simply isn't the necessary airflow or fuel flow. The Mass Air Flow sensor can be troublesome, and not necessarily throw a code. That would be something to check.
 
I cleaned it when I took apart the CAI to clean my air filter. It hasn't happened since I cleaned the air filter/throttle body. I am still going to run the Seafoam through the system ASAP bc I've never done it. But I was thinking that this morning on my way to work about the MAF sensor. It MIGHT have been the issue. But, don't wanna assume just yet. My luck, it'll happen next time I drive it!! Lol!!
 
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Ok.... So.... I ran the Seafoam thru the engine(lots of smoke by the way) and I was driving it afterwards and it did it again. So, I guess it wasn't that. I also changed the air temp sensor, bc I found out that the JKs don't have MAF sensors (I thought they did too). I have a video of it acting up. The sound and quality isn't that great but you can kinda hear the engine bogging down when I accelerate. I just can't seem to download it. Keep saying...oopps, we have a problem. Whatever. I'm just hoping it's not a trans problem. It shifts perfect and never skips or anything and the fluid is nice and red so Idk how that could be an issue bc the engine is bogging down whenever it happens. It almost sounds like it's choking or hitting the rev limiter and then cuts out. I'm baffled.
 
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I'm assuming your Jeep is doing the same?? Mine is a 2014 with 83k on it. It's lifted 4.5" and has 35s. My issues started out of the blue. Driving home from work one day, and i went to pass someone on the highway and it fell flat on its face. Sounded like the rev limiter was on. Engine was revving but vehicle wasn't moving. Started doing some research because it happened a few more times after that. So, I read one thread that said to do a ECU reset by disconnecting the battery cables, touching them together for about 20 minutes, and then reconnecting them. So I did that. After that is when the real problems started. I had my check engine light come on with p0390, p0365, p0345, p0300, c121u, and an ABS code and my Jeep was constantly going into "limp" mode. Now I'm really pissed. I'm reading all these threads about people replacing their heads, replacing their camshaft, the engines, and about how these oil galley bolts can come loose and they can fall into your oil pan. So, I start checking everything on my engine. There's no way I'm replacing heads or my engine. I'll light it on fire before i do that.. Start making sure all the wiring is good to the sensors. Because p0390 p0365 and p0345 are all circuit dtc's. So I pull out my camshaft sensors one day to check the wiring on the connectors. I look down in the hole that the sensors sit in and I see the tone wheel. Looks like a gear. I stick my finger in there to see if there's any teeth missing on this gear. Come to find out it's not a gear. It's actually a smooth tone wheel with magnets on the inside of the wheel that the sensors read. There was a bunch of metal dust mixed with oil stuck to these magnets that were raised up making it look like a gear. So I wiped it off with my finger, and it looked like the sludge you would find on your differential drain plug when you change the gear oil. Just not as thick. Now there are two tone wheels inside your valve cover.... one for the intake cam and one for the exhaust cam. Both of them had this metal sludge stuck to them. I wrapped my finger in a rag and went to work. I turned the engine via the crankshaft pulley bolt and cleaned off each tone wheel. I had to remove my upper intake to access the driver side camshaft sensor hole. It helped tremendously. Now, I'm wondering why I was getting this metal dust. I've been putting 5W-20 oil (Mobil 1) which is recommended by Jeep. I read a couple threads that said the 5-20 was very thin....a little too thin. Which it is. So I decided to run 10w30. I've been running 10w30 Mobil 1 for about two oil changes now. I run Mobil 1 in all my vehicles and I always will. And what a difference. Once I cleaned the metal sludge off the tone wheels, the Jeep ran like it was brand new. No stumbling, no skipping, no hesitation, I stepped on a gas and it moved. So about 3 weeks later I noticed it started to stumble again but only once in awhile. I remove the upper intake did the whole cleaning the tone wheel process again and knock on wood it has been fine ever since. I just got back from OBX,North Carolina on Thursday and it ran great the whole time. Not one stumble, not one hesitation, not one skip. NOW, this worked for my engine and hopefully you can give yours a look and see what your tone wheels look like but I would definitely switch to 10w30 if you are currently using 5w20. Like I said, this worked for my Jeep. it could not be the same for yours. But it's worth the look. Let me know what you find.
 
Thanks for the detailed write up. I’ll have to say as hot as the 3.6 likes to run, seems like it may benefit from a thicker oil. I’ll need to think about this. I wonder what most people use.
 
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