2013 Wrangler JK EVAP issue and misc codes P0456

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Nutsaboutcars

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Hello all,
Im trying to fix my sons 2013 Wrangler with 98k miles. Over the last month it started throwing EVAP (P0456) and other codes (see pic). Im good wrenching in old cars but this newer stuff drives me crazy.
So far we replaced the gas cap, evap purge valve by battery, and evap canister underneath. Check Engine light/EVAP code went away on its own for 1 day and popped back on.
We smoke tested (I have a machine) and only place it came out of was the fuel vapor canister by the filler neck which I read was normal. I looked all over and the gas tank is fine. No leaks to anything on top of tank or under hood. Any advice? Thank you.

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Check all Emissions lines underneath the back of the vehicle all the way to the gas tank. The connection on top of the gas could have a crack in it.
I had 2 Evap lines that were chewed up by squirrels.
I have wrapped those hoses with aluminum foil. No more invasion by the squirrel gang, although my Jeep underneath looks glitter!
 
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Dwphillips said:
Check all Emissions lines underneath the back of the vehicle all the way to the gas tank. The connection on top of the gas could have a crack in it.
I had 2 Evap lines that were chewed up by squirrels.
I have wrapped those hoses with aluminum foil. No more invasion by the squirrel gang, although my Jeep underneath looks glitter!
Click to expand...

Glad you replied I remember someone who had this similar problem.
 
Thanks for the reply. I think Im with you on a better inspection of everything. I do have squirrels around and about but never have seen them around the cars. Im guessing I will need a ton of poking around lines. Thank you.
 
New message popped up on dash today. Gascap. But its brand new. Im starting to think its the filler neck.

Im going to take off the fuel vapor canister by the filler neck and re-smoke test.
 
Make sure u have the exact fuel cap that your wrangler calls for. Also the exact mopar ESIM module with the green gasket not a black one. Check your purge vapor line from the valve to the intake. If it’s loose at all it will leak. Hose clamp on it will confirm. Also check the white nipple (did I say nipple?) on top of the fuel tank. Aftermarket is definitely not your friend on evap code. I have a collection of gas caps that said they fit but they don’t work. 🍺🍺
 
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Thanks Big Al.

I did some more inspecting tonight. I traced/checked every line, dropped the tank. I thought I had a sign when I saw pack rat nuts on the top of tank (Pic 1), vacuumed off (Pic 2). But after cleaning and checking no lines were chewed or damaged.

I did run another smoke test and new locking gas cap appeaered to be peaking smoke where it screws into the filler neck. I ran to autozone and bought a non locking one and seemed to seal.

So tomorrow after some driving we will see.

My last plan is to take off vapor canister on the filler neck and do a more targeted smoke test in ‘areas’.

This is driving me crazy.

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10-4. Fought it for years. Was never able to get a aftermarket fuel cap to work properly. Researched through mopar and got exact cap which finally did the trick. Seems silly but that was my experience. Good luck. Keep us updated. Good luck brother 🍺🍺
 
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68084963AF Is the part number for the fuel vapor hose I was speaking of in the first post. It is under your hood and is connected from your purge valve to your intake. It takes a lot of heat. It has a special made connector on the intake end. If u can pop it off easily with one finger then it prone to leak. U can put a small hose clamp on it to test it out. Just another piece to the puzzle. On my 3.8 the vapor line can rub on the battery and put a pin hole in it. Not sure if your 3.6 is made like that. Worth checking out for sure. Keep us updated and good luck 👍 🍺🍺
 
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Thanks BigAl.

So I checked all the lines. Cant find any isses. Replaced the rubber end up where purge valve connects to the engine.

Light went off. Drive around. So he takes it to the inspection place today.

Fail.

He has 3 ‘Not readys’ which failed him’

It has been 369 miles since he used a code scanner to reset. I figured all systems would be ready by now. Any ideas?

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Sometimes when replacing parts and making repairs a ECM reset needs to be done and then so many miles driven for the ECM to relearn.

I'm sure glad we don't have the inspections anymore.
 
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I am not sure this is accurate, but I read somewhere that it isn’t necessarily the number of miles but the number of cycles. With a cycle being cold, run to operating temperature, back to cold then back to operating temperature.
 
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Danarch said:
I am not sure this is accurate, but I read somewhere that it isn’t necessarily the number of miles but the number of cycles. With a cycle being cold, run to operating temperature, back to cold then back to operating temperature.
Click to expand...

Could be cycles and I had it wrong with miles, but with miles you'd surely have cycles?
 
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Agree. You need to put on a few highways miles at 55mph and some stop and go miles in town. Keep the tank between 1/4 and 3/4 full. Monitors take several drive cycles to reset. That’s mostly cold starts to warm up. You can check your monitor status with JScan or a good scanner. You definitely have to drive it some to get them to reset. Good time for a BEER RUN!! Your on the right track brother!🍺🍺
 
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Each time that you clear the codes it will reset your monitors and will nullify the starts and drive cycles. Just let them ride. Leaves you starting from zero each time. Just let them ride🍺🍺
 
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