2013 JK 3.6 Low Oil Pressure Light Intermittent

J

Jostauf

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Dec 29, 2022
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Texas
Hello,
I have a 2013 Jeep Wrangler sport 3.6VL
and the low oil pressure light is intermittent while driving. There’s no pattern to what triggers it to come on, but it’ll blink for a second and go off then repeat a few minutes later. P06DD code was read. Levels are serviced, I replaced the temp sensor and pressure sensor, ran it in park and no light came up.

Whilst driving it is having the same issue, appears the light comes on when it’s a sudden change in RPMs, doesn’t come on in idle. Engine isn’t running hot, and no weird noises.
I would suspect the oil pump itself but I haven’t seen any side effects of the oil pump being bad.
Any other troubleshooting ideas ?
 
BLACKJKU said:
Put a oil pressure gauge on it to actually see what it's doing.

You can buy an oil filter cap with a tapped 1/8 npt fitting in the end for the gauge sender.
Click to expand...
That would be accurate enough? I didn’t realize that would give and accurate oil pressure reading.
 
Interesting, I had assumed it needed a specific placement to get an accurate pressure reading and didn’t realize the cap would do that not being in the actual flow of the oil. Just seems to be a lot of “air” in that area. Learn something new all the time.
 
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Danarch said:
Interesting, I had assumed it needed a specific placement to get an accurate pressure reading and didn’t realize the cap would do that not being in the actual flow of the oil. Just seems to be a lot of “air” in that area. Learn something new all the time.
Click to expand...


From what I have found out there is no other place other then the Factory sender location to tap into.

The 3.8's you can tap into the side of the block to get a oil pressure gauge.
 
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These engines have a 2 stage oil pump. Between 3000 and 3500 RPMs the pump switches to high pressure. If the solenoid is bad it won't switch and the light will come on, but only above 3000 RPMs. The solenoid and pump are sold as one unit.
 
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I'd be willing to bet that the sender isn't bad, but the wiring at the connector has dried out, become brittle, and there are now exposed conductors that are shorting together under certain conditions, such as when the engine gets hot, vibrations due to terrain, etc.
I chased this type of problem for over 6 months, replacing TIPM, battery, battery clamps, sensors, and finally the ECU only to still have the issue.

Pulling off the intake to expose the connector isn't difficult, but it's not for the faint of heart as there are a ton of things in the way.
 
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