2009 JK won't start

O

Osteologation

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Michigan
This vehicle was accidentally left key on over night with a slow charger connected by my friend. When he went outside he said all the relays were clicking.
He still had the old tipm and we did try that and no change.

Turn key no starter. By pass relay and starter functions. Security light goes on and goes out when keyed on. No signal from tipm to the relay. I guess is there anything else obvious to check?
 
Osteologation said:
This vehicle was accidentally left key on over night with a slow charger connected by my friend. When he went outside he said all the relays were clicking.
He still had the old tipm and we did try that and no change.

Turn key no starter. By pass relay and starter functions. Security light goes on and goes out when keyed on. No signal from tipm to the relay. I guess is there anything else obvious to check?
Click to expand...

Make sure your battery cables are tight. Even when you think they're tight, they're not. A quick fix is use aluminum foil. Take a small square like a 2"x2" and fold it down to a smaller square. Remove your battery cables, place the foil against the battery posts, and reconnect your cables while making sure the aluminum is between your terminal and the post. I did this before I got my new ends.
 
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Chris said:
It's either the battery or the battery cables is my guess.
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Just curious as to Why? It turns over fine if you bypass the relay as stated in my post. I would think a poor connection wouldn’t turn the motor at all. Not that I won’t get my terminal cleaner out and double check. I feel the problem is in why is it not sending the start signal to the relay?
 
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Osteologation said:
This vehicle was accidentally left key on over night with a slow charger connected by my friend. When he went outside he said all the relays were clicking.
He still had the old tipm and we did try that and no change.

Turn key no starter. By pass relay and starter functions. Security light goes on and goes out when keyed on. No signal from tipm to the relay. I guess is there anything else obvious to check?
Click to expand...

You mention the tipm, was it swapped with a new or rebuilt tipm and you used the old tipm to test the situation? If that is the case, what was wrong with the old tipm? Your post does not explain a lot of detail, did you jump K3 relay pins 86 and 87?
 
WSS said:
You mention the tipm, was it swapped with a new or rebuilt tipm and you used the old tipm to test the situation? If that is the case, what was wrong with the old tipm? Your post does not explain a lot of detail, did you jump K3 relay pins 86 and 87?
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Old tipm was just door locks not working with switch. Forgive me on the numbers on relay but I connected 30 to 87 to verify starter functioned. With multimeter I get nothing on 86 (red probe in socket black probe to battery ground) when key is turned to start. Also I don’t beleive I got ground on 85 when turned to start. Again terminal to battery ground.
 
Ya, it is K3. 87 to 30 and starter should spin engine over. 86 yo ground, when in start position should show 12v. Those tests are generally the ones you do to confirm a bad TIPM. did you do the same tests with both tipms?
 
WSS said:
Ya, it is K3. 87 to 30 and starter should spin engine over. 86 yo ground, when in start position should show 12v. Those tests are generally the ones you do to confirm a bad TIPM. did you do the same tests with both tipms?
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I did not. It wouldn’t start and was worried because it was left key on like it was that I should try the old tipm that was pulled when the vehicle was still starting fine.
 
Gremlins! I feel his pain. Did you do a battery disconnect/ecm reset? I am grabbing for straws here. Here is my recent no crank/no start issue:

WSS

Thread 'No start signal on 07 JKU'

Another no crank, no start thread. I have 12.5v at battery, cleaned the ground and pos terminal on battery, cleaned and reattached grounds around and in engine compartment.

One clue is m27 fuse (ign sw win mod) was blown. I replaced and a few items are working again, but still no crank.

I tested pin 86 on K3 no 12v when turned to start. Also no signal on pin 87 or at the starter solenoid start wire.

This is sudden and no trick has been successfully applied.

JScan reads this:

IMG_9580.jpeg
 
I did the iOdfuse pull but I will the pull cables and clean, verify grounds tonight. Is a battery disconnect enough to reset ecm? There’s no codes either. My buddy is concerned he toasted the ecm leaving it key on with the charger attached.
 
I know that disconnecting my battery reset my ecm. All the codes were gone, but a few did come back, so I t seems as though the disconnect worked. I would be concerned about the ecm as well, not trying to scare him, but it is a possible.
 
when you do the battery disconnect, make sure the system drains, like holding the brake pedal down to suck any residual power out of the system, I usually disconnect both pos and neg cables and touch them together for a few seconds to pull every last bit out. Be careful how you do it, both cables need to be disconnected from battery. If you have a dual posts, like an optima, make sure all four cables are disconnected.
 
Well cleaned terminals on battery and the grounds I could find. No dice.
After a iOd reset it will sputter offf starting fluid but not run. This is with jumping the relay. Now I’m fairly positive it has a bad fuel pump. But I wanted to see if I could get it to pop on starting fluid before I tackled the pump. Is it possible the skim module is bad? Red light comes on but goes off.
 
Can you pressurize the line by hand and see if it will run? A sputter is a good sign, some progress.
 
Jumping the relay does not send the "turn stuff on" signal, starting fluid will ignite from compression on diesels. That may account for your sputter. Again, I feel his pain.
 
To check if ECM power is actually being delivered (or stuck on), use a multimeter or test light on:
  • Fuse M6 — Powertrain Control Module (ECM)
  • Fuse M7 — Auto Shutdown circuit (also feeds ECM indirectly)
  • Fuse M37 — Ignition Run/Accessory circuits

These are typically 15A or 20A fuses in the TIPM and are good places to test for "stuck RUN" or key-off backfeed issues.
 
WSS said:
To check if ECM power is actually being delivered (or stuck on), use a multimeter or test light on:
  • Fuse M6 — Powertrain Control Module (ECM)
  • Fuse M7 — Auto Shutdown circuit (also feeds ECM indirectly)
  • Fuse M37 — Ignition Run/Accessory circuits

These are typically 15A or 20A fuses in the TIPM and are good places to test for "stuck RUN" or key-off backfeed issues.
Click to expand...

Those all have power with key on
 
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