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That would be great for someone who wants to put in a little elbow grease! I'm sure it could be back in shape in no time.

Are you talking about the the plastic tray inside the vehicle in front of the shifter? That's a new one for me.

Yep, Gates belt. I am going to try the water test again and also look at the crank pulley to see if there are any signs of the elastomer shifting. I have read about misalignment issues stemming from this.

I had a reply to a different post show that it was from today but the post was from months ago... 🤷🏻

Uploaded the video to YT: There are no other indications of anything wrong while driving, although I need to determine if it goes away with other conditions when not moving (higher rpm in park, D but with brakes engaged, etc) . Let me know if anyone has thoughts!

Some background... I was getting some high pitched "squeals/chirps" from the front of the engine after driving for awhile. Nothing at cold start and only would hear it if I was stopped at idle. It may be happening when driving but I can't hear it if it is. I sprayed a little water, noise...

My guess is junk factory clamps not fully seated and causing intermittent starting issues. Ask me how I know! Temp fix - loosen and tap them down to fully seat them Permanent fix - replacement

As a test/interim action you can loosen the terminals and take a socket and hammer and tap them down to make sure they are seated all the way on the terminal. Looks like your positive terminal isn't all the way down to me. Ultimately they should be replaced, though.

Follow-up: I ended up replacing the two idler pulleys and tensioner/idler assembly. I was still getting some noise after the belt change. Upon removal I found one of the idler bearings wasn't 100%. It would only starting making noise after a longer drive. I figured they were all the...

I guess we need more info... @smokeyma48 if the OEM link is damaged or corroded to the point it can't be rotated it's a reasonable request from your installer. If they are saying you need something different than OEM I would question it.

There isn't enough adjustment with the OEM link? This is the kit I've been been looking at and it's the first I've heard of this requirement. Maybe it depends on model year, however?

Big modification today! 😂 Made some cinch straps for the soft top sail panels. I found that they tend to come loose if I run without the side windows and the rear window rolled up. I think the recommendation is to not go over ~35mph or so but I didn't like that. This config with the sun...

Stop it. Next, someone will ask about where to mount the rear wing.

I would like some Bushwackers without the bolt pockets. 😁

I have that same jack but use it as my shop jack. It is definitely hefty! I would say if you remove the spare and upgrade the tailgate hinges you could probably carry it on inside of the tailgate.

Depending how far forward the exhaust system is damaged, an O2 sensor could have been damaged (or wiring ripped out). That could also result in a misfire code.

Do it! 😁

I just re-read this. Do you already have larger tires than stock? If so, what size?

To your point - it seems as though plenty of people run 285/70R17 on OEM wheels without spacers. Bumping up to a 315 (12.5") width necessitates either a spacer or different wheel, regardless of diameter. In other words, you can probably get away with a larger pizza cutter on the OEM wheels...

You should do a leak down test too if you're going through the effort.