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I'm a doofus. Great idea. Should be able to do that Thursday morning.

2008 Rubicon JKU This may be hard to explain, but you can kind of hear it in the YouTube video. At low speeds (like idle to 5 mph low) my tires feel....stiff might be the word? It feels like one of them is a plastic Little Tykes. And when I'm going slow it almost feels crunchy and I can hear...

So I've definitely been mis-aligned for a while with my JKU, just always had bigger fish to fry. Anyway, so I finally did ball joints. And because I'm high mileage and the fact that everything was already apart I went ahead and bought a new drag link and tie rod. I would hate to have to pay...

We had the hood painted and I forgot to measure where the hood decals go. Can anyone point me to dimensions or a template? This is for a 2008 JKU Rubicon if it matters.

2008 JKU with a 3.8L and 42RLE. I've read this from a couple different people but either people are terrible at updating their posts or they just never actually fix this. At around 700-900 RPM's I just get a pretty steady vibration throughout the vehicle, just like a low/deep vibe. It's more...

I suppose I should have come back and updated also. I bought these, had Ace Hardware cut it, and then used JScan. All factory functionality remains, though the remote start button on the new key is just double click the remote start. I think on the old key I have to lock then double click...

Reviving an old thread, but @Chris do you know if, when the key is programmed, the factory remote start functionality programs into the key? @72c10 were you able to personally program a third key since you had two functioning? Some literature out there reads as if you need to have 2 FOB's once...

Did my radiator tonight. Not the worst job in the world, but I certainly have thoughts for those engineers at FCA. Anyway. 2008 Rubicon with a 3.8. This was actually wedged behind the overflow reservoir next to the electric fan housing. Is this the bottom half of an exhaust manifold heat shield?

Grain of salt here, but I think of heavy duty converters as things needed for towing applications. My rationale is you said you're adding a couple hundred pounds, right? So basically it's like adding a family in the Jeep with you, yeah? And would you ever think you need to upgrade your torque...

Funny story, if you use enough of the 303 it will restore. :) Ask me how I know that. I used it on my TJ and it brought my fenders back from the grave. It involved a week straight of 2X daily applications, but it got there. I've got the "before" pic hanging out somewhere if I can find it...

I also think the 42RLE is a good little trans. It was on TJ's back to 2003 before our JK's. I find them simple but effective and easy to work on.

And we're done! Happy to have this one behind me. Now to put everything back together.

Final prep complete and now bonded in. I'm going to let it sit 3-4 days under load since it's in the upper 50's here. Hoping to have paint on by the end of the week than the exhaust/new cats can go back in.

I'm no metal guy but I'm pretty happy with this. Still a little bit of metal work to do, and I need to sand down a few painted areas. But I feel good that I cut out all rust, and that was the primary objective. It feels very solid without the structural adhesive.

You can actually buy a replacement floorboard, so it has the same ribbing and drain holes as OE. But as it will come to me it's much bigger than the space I need, so I'll cut it down to a size that is basically whatever point I find clean metal after I grind off paint and rust. For attaching...

Got some cutting done today. Waiting until I can get some flap wheels tomorrow to clean up paint and rust. Grinding wheel too slow and air grinder I think I have the wrong grits. The panel bond seems very particular about clean metal so I'm just going to keep moving up and out until I have...

Exactly my thoughts. The rest of the entire interior floor is great, so is the bottom all around. Makes me think the drivers side T-top was off often with rain. Drives me crazy because the plugs are there for a reason, use them!!!!

Then it's your lucky day. Here's one data point. Truth be told, it's actually pretty solid quite a ways up there. But obviously with that surface rust forming and the rust inching that way up it was only a matter of time before it got there and ate it all up. The plan is to cut it out, get down...

That's the opinion I needed to hear, thanks guys. I pulled the heat shield off the passenger side and that manifold is fine. So at least for now, because I want to get this thing back together and not turn it into a total money dump (replacement cats were included with the sale of the vehicle)...

Last time I checked I don't think cracks were a design future of exhaust manifolds. 🤣 I have the cats removed for replacement and I thought I had an exhaust leak, so that's how I got here. Two questions then; 1) would any of you all try to weld repair this or do I just need to buy a new one...