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Anyone know the location of a technical drawing that shows angles, spacing and dimensions for the Dana 44...most specifically for the JK. If I can beat and heat this I'd sure like to be able to measure or jig it up to get as close as possible. -Mac

No idea on the original vehicle other than 2008 and Rubicon. I ordered some C guessets from Barnes and I'm going to make a jig out of my Dana 30... guessing I will need to heat the top of the C and bend it in. Also thinking about just replacing the inner C... getting a builder end for a...

Ok...doing a Dana 30 to 44 swap...the 44 is off a Rubicon...2008 I believe...mine is a 2012...44 has factory e-locker and is geared 5.13... Here's the issue...my 30 has straight up centered ball joints. The ones on the 44...top...are clearly in a couple of degrees. Do I press ahead with the...

IMHO I like this HF cordless work light. $30. 1250 lumens. Doubles as a battery pack for charging USB devices. Folds flat and stores easy. Has a 1/4" tripod threaded hole...I bolted a magnet to mine. https://www.harborfreight.com/1250-lumen-work-light-battery-bank-56163.html -Mac

Smittybuilt... installed ours on a road trip to Montana in the parking lot of the Post Falls 4WP. Factory fogs bolted right in, no extensions needed.

Mines not there. I found a defrost/rear wiper harness, a stalk and a HVAC control panel on eBay for $260...but it says 14-18 and not 12. -Mac

Mines a 2012 stripper 2 door sport. I went looking for the rear defroster/rear wiper harness on the left side and it doesn't exist. Hardtop is not original to this jeep. Anyone have a link to either the plug, pin out or actual power port part? -Mac

Is this it?

I bought our JK knowing the radio was shot. I checked the fuses...all good... It wasn't until I found the entire contents of a 16 oz tube of clear silicone in the freedom top gaskets that I realized the radio problem was a symptom of a larger issue. We replaced the front gasket...that slowed...

Mine was included as an option on my build sheet. And it was a stripper JK sport 2 door. I would imagine you can walk into a dealer, order the cheapest Jeep with absolutely zero options and add the badge. -Mac

That just means they still have some oil inside. They're only really shot when they stop leaking. -Mac

Hard to tell visually. Not hard to pull the bottom bolt or bounce the Jeep to test them. -Mac

I bought it. Everything looked good. PO win an ultimate Dana 44 from spicer so it wasnt pulled because something broke. Came with shafts...oem shafts...and they'll do until they don't and then I'll replace them. I plan on doing ball joints, hubs, u joints and pads, rotors and maybe calipers...

A JK Dana 44 came up for sale on FB. Going to check it out tonight. Currently I have a 30/44 Sport with stock 3.07 gears and a 6 speed. 2012. 35 inch Mickeys. The 44 is allegedly a Rubi e-locker and 5.13 gears. I was originally thinking 4.88s...but a 44 front and rear and 5.13s might get me...

Depends on if you're doing the work or paying someone else. If you're paying someone else make sure all the warranties transfer to the new owner. A running Jeep is always going to sell for more money...and faster. And like you're questioning...is that difference worth paying someone. I'd do...

How many miles? What fluid did you use? Any codes? Any transmission work done previously? -Mac

I can't see your video but if you're able to wiggle the driveshaft your joints are shot. Not hard to replace them or go buy aftermarket shafts from Adams or Tom Woods. -Mac

Something similar...mine was from scosche. -Mac

I'd say no...for one any aftermarket harness has to tell the computer via the CAN bus the radio is there and to turn on the relay to supply power. I pulled the factory radio from my 2012 while we were driving to Montana via dirt roads and wired in a $20 cheapo from Walmart. Crimping connections...

Ok...ordered up a set of Mopar lift struts...dealer wanted $73 each and my wife talked them down to $50 each. They are identical in size, shape and performance to the $27 for a pair Amazon units...but I hope these will last longer. I'm thinking ultimately the solution is a Metalcloak Game...