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Any updates on this build? You get to wheel it at all over the summer?

I would leave as much structure in place as you can as this will help give the foam something to "bite" into. Encapsulator would be fine on the frame, though if you can get it clean, just some good primer and heavy duty chassis paint is also fine. What I don't put on the frame is undercoating...

My JKU had a 285/75 on the back without issue and it's now on my daughter's Jeep. There aren't any vibrations, because I made sure to buy new snubbers and adjust them properly. I do have a Teraflex HD mount to install, but I have little concern about the durability and longevity of the OEM mount...

You will need to mechanically remove the flaking rust. The easiest way to do it is to use a needle scaler and go to town. I have this one and surprisingly, it works as good as the fancy one I used many years ago...

I have to disagree with this. This is an Old Wives Tale from the guys that sell Fluid Film and other oil-based products lol... seriously though, I think most of these reports come from people who were already trying to cover-up cancerous rust, or used so much material (the "more is better"...

If you use a closed-cell foam and coat the metal below, it would hold any moisture. Closed-cell foam is what they use to make boats out of and won't inherently hold moisture. Still, the prudent thing to do would be to encapsulate BEFORE foam coating, which further ensures moisture protection...

For an encapsulator, paint, and similar stuff, I like Eastwood products. I'm currently working on my JKU and am cleaning and sealing BEFORE it becomes an issue (https://wranglerjkforum.net/threads/2008-jku-argenta-build-thread.32367/post-471207). I'm hitting any surface rust with mechanical...

I'm afraid that @JeepJeezy is likely right - this probably isn't the only spot you're having issues with. I would check the torque boxes directly under the rocker panels, plus hidden areas such as the formed, sheet-metal "braces" that traverse the body from driver-side to passenger side. If it...

I've got a work trip this week, but was able to swap out the setup bearings for the final bearings. No change in pattern and no change in BL. I ended up with 0.007" on BL... With a nicely centered pattern on the drive side that shows good feathering... And matching coast side pattern: I...

I finally remembered to pick up a new 3-jaw puller (for the yoke!), and got started setting up for pattern on my the Islander's D44. I gotta say, I’m either getting good, or got super lucky. The first setup at +0 checking distance (as marked on the pinion), was spot on! I’ll pull the set up...

When you say "overheating", are you actually steaming over or are you just using the gauge? The temp senders are known to fail at some point in their life. Unless you're steaming over, I would question your gauge accuracy...

The process for installing the R10A rear bumper involves grinding off the welded/captured nuts on the hitch. The bumper itself has threaded inserts that are what secures the bumper to the frame, sandwiching the hitch to the crossmember in the process. The process was easy, a couple hits with the...

We've got some rain and cold weather coming, so I decided to tackle one of the "to do's" on the list and get the frame touched up and painted so that I can permanently install the AEV tire carrier and R10A bumper... The frame has been scrubbed, degreased, and hot-washed, so all that I needed to...

100%! I was actually very impressed with how well the TCS system works on squirrely roads, as well as the BLD going up my very icy driveway. As a dad to a somewhat new driver, it certainly added a bit of comfort in knowing that my daughter had some help should she get into a situation where her...

A lot of what you're intending seems more about personal preference, so take this advice with a grain of salt... There are a lot of nice aftermarket bumpers that I wouldn't classify as "aggressive", though we may have different definitions of what "aggressive" means in regards to bumpers...

Unless you're talking about wheeling through DEEP snow, lockers are generally considered the worst option for driving in the snow... Heck I'd rather have a spool in the back (vs an auto locker) for snow covered and potentially ice laden roads.

As expected, my long car drive down and back from Virginia proved beneficial. My first inclination was to make an adapter plate of sorts, where I could bolt the Barnes plate to the factory AEV plate in the hopes of still having the option to remove the Barnes plate and (should I decide I no...

Had a work trip the first half of the week and decided to take a little PTO time when I got back to wrap up some stuff around the house, plus get some dedicated and uninterrupted time working on both the JKU's... First up, getting those 37"s I traded the 40"s for mounted up. I liked the design...

In a complete shock, someone on FB told me that they used the OEM rear track bar with the Artec Apex truss kit and sure as can be, it fits perfectly and has a lot of clearance! The nodular Yukon cover I got may be problematic at full stuff, but I'll have to check that when I get everything...

They say to "make hay while the sun is shinning". In my case, it's "wash everything while it's still warm and sunny!" I thoroughly degreased the frame, engine, trans, t-case, and firewall, then focused my attention on other nooks and crannies, such as in the rear crossmember, behind the rear...