Buying first Jeep on Friday! Lots of questions

[Stuck_in_Snow]

2015 Jeep unlimited Rubicon.
It has 100k miles, what is my first step once i get it?
I want to get an aggressive looking front bumper but have zero mechanical skills, are they bolt and go?
How do i pair fenders with front bumper is it just how i want it to look or does one tie into the other?
If i change fenders do i need to buy the inner fender liners?
Im only worried about snow and getting through drifts and unplowed back roads, any advice? Chains? Snow socks? Will be getting 3 peek rated snow tires.
Amber light bar for winter white outs?
Tools i have duct tape and a random flame thrower.

Thanks for taking the time to read this, as I'm new to this any and all information is welcome and valued.

 

[BLACKJKU]

2015 Jeep unlimited Rubicon.
It has 100k miles, what is my first step once i get it?
I want to get an aggressive looking front bumper but have zero mechanical skills, are they bolt and go?
How do i pair fenders with front bumper is it just how i want it to look or does one tie into the other?
If i change fenders do i need to buy the inner fender liners?
Im only worried about snow and getting through drifts and unplowed back roads, any advice? Chains? Snow socks? Will be getting 3 peek rated snow tires.
Amber light bar for winter white outs?
Tools i have duct tape and a random flame thrower.

Thanks for taking the time to read this, as I'm new to this any and all information is welcome and valued.

My Aftermarket bumpers were bolted on just like the Factory ones.

Having lockers in the front and rear would be the best for snow, but if you have a auto trans not sure you can have them.

 

[Cimmerian]

First off, had you had a mechanic go over it to make sure that it's in good working order?

As far as bumpers go, as long as you're not doing anything gucci like dehorning your front end, front and back are both bolt on and should be 15 minute jobs at most.

Some JK bumpers are made to look aesthetic with the stock style fenders. Usually though it's just put on what you want. You don't really even need inner fenders, in my opinion.

How bad will the snow be? Having driven through blizzards before, I found a set of Falken Wildpeaks to be perfect. I also have a winch and recovery gear, though.

An amber bar should not be an issue to install at all.

 

[pc1p]

My Aftermarket bumpers were bolted on just like the Factory ones.

Having lockers in the front and rear would be the best for snow, but if you have a auto trans not sure you can have them.

Unless you're talking about wheeling through DEEP snow, lockers are generally considered the worst option for driving in the snow... Heck I'd rather have a spool in the back (vs an auto locker) for snow covered and potentially ice laden roads.

 

[pc1p]

A lot of what you're intending seems more about personal preference, so take this advice with a grain of salt...

There are a lot of nice aftermarket bumpers that I wouldn't classify as "aggressive", though we may have different definitions of what "aggressive" means in regards to bumpers. Unless you're adding large tires, a lift, etc., one of the common full width bumpers add functionality and styling. The 10th Anniversary Bumpers look excellent and fit the form and finish of a relatively stock JKU nicely. Find them here: https://www.quadratec.com/products/...p5QhK0fO2cY0CzsFFjsOtEh_mi-25RAAaAiPWEALw_wcB

The ARB bumpers are also quite nice: https://www.quadratec.com/products/12000_120X_PG.htm

As are the AEV bumpers: https://www.quadratec.com/p/aev/ex-front-bumper-wrangler-jk-full-width-12301400aa

The above are all top quality brands built to last. You can save a bunch of money by going with something like Quadratec's "house brand" bumpers (https://www.quadratec.com/categories/jeep-bumpers/front-bumpers/front-full-width-bumpers/?f[0]=sm_field_brand:taxonomy_term:13) but I would suggest you stay away from no-name/Amazon/eBay specials.

By fenders, I assume you're referring to fender flares and not new fenders. Again, as with the above, unless you are adding bigger tires, the OEM flares add a lot of nice coverage with OEM quality. You can go with aftermarket "flat" flares, but you'll look funny with OEM sized tires, and you may not get as good of protection from snow/mud spray.

Note that many flares require you to cut and modify your OEM inner flare, you use an aftermarket option (usually made of aluminum). Personally, unless it is a dedicated trail rig, or you lived and wheeled in the southwest desert, I would run inner fenders. The really do help keep a lot of gunk and road debris off sensitive areas.

As someone with a lot of experience with snow and winter driving, I'll say that the tires that are good for snowy and ice covered roads are the worst ones for driving through deep snow and large drifts. The opposite is also the case. If your usage mostly entails on-road driving, a set of Blizzaks are hard to beat. If you're romping through deep snow and fields, a good set of M/T tires is hard to beat. Somewhere in the middle are A/T tires, most commonly the ones with 3-Peak Ratings. Like everything, there are compromises and trade offs.

Note that similar to tire differences and their best application, traction aids that are helpful in something like deep snow (e.g. a locker), are potentially problematic for on-road driving. If you plan to do both, you may want to consider a selectable locker (regardless of tire size). A LSD rear and selectable front are notoriously reliable and predictable for winter road and deep snow driving.

Amber bulbs are a preference for the most part. I had them for quite some time and they worked well enough, The most important factory in visibility for me was getting them as low as possible. Getting the highest angle of incidence is what helps prevent glare and the "light speed" effect of heavy snow. I used the yellow bulbs up top as more of a warning light system when parked or working through dark back roads where I didn't want to disturb people or animals.

 

[tJKrider]

As someone with a lot of experience with snow and winter driving, I'll say that the tires that are good for snowy and ice covered roads are the worst ones for driving through deep snow and large drifts. The opposite is also the case. If your usage mostly entails on-road driving, a set of Blizzaks are hard to beat. If you're romping through deep snow and fields, a good set of M/T tires is hard to beat. Somewhere in the middle are A/T tires, most commonly the ones with 3-Peak Ratings. Like everything, there are compromises and trade offs.

Totally agree. Hard to beat a good A/T as an all around tire choice unless you want multiple wheelsets.

Note that similar to tire differences and their best application, traction aids that are helpful in something like deep snow (e.g. a locker), are potentially problematic for on-road driving. If you plan to do both, you may want to consider a selectable locker (regardless of tire size). A LSD rear and selectable front are notoriously reliable and predictable for winter road and deep snow driving.

Especially with the advent of traction control. Some feel it's a "nanny" but for typical winter driving paired with an LSD in the rear it does a great job of keeping the vehicle out of trouble. Easy to get sideways on a short wheelbase w/o the electronics.

 

[Stuck_in_Snow]

A lot of what you're intending seems more about personal preference, so take this advice with a grain of salt...

There are a lot of nice aftermarket bumpers that I wouldn't classify as "aggressive", though we may have different definitions of what "aggressive" means in regards to bumpers. Unless you're adding large tires, a lift, etc., one of the common full width bumpers add functionality and styling. The 10th Anniversary Bumpers look excellent and fit the form and finish of a relatively stock JKU nicely. Find them here: https://www.quadratec.com/products/...p5QhK0fO2cY0CzsFFjsOtEh_mi-25RAAaAiPWEALw_wcB

The ARB bumpers are also quite nice: https://www.quadratec.com/products/12000_120X_PG.htm

As are the AEV bumpers: https://www.quadratec.com/p/aev/ex-front-bumper-wrangler-jk-full-width-12301400aa

The above are all top quality brands built to last. You can save a bunch of money by going with something like Quadratec's "house brand" bumpers (https://www.quadratec.com/categories/jeep-bumpers/front-bumpers/front-full-width-bumpers/?f[0]=sm_field_brand:taxonomy_term:13) but I would suggest you stay away from no-name/Amazon/eBay specials.

By fenders, I assume you're referring to fender flares and not new fenders. Again, as with the above, unless you are adding bigger tires, the OEM flares add a lot of nice coverage with OEM quality. You can go with aftermarket "flat" flares, but you'll look funny with OEM sized tires, and you may not get as good of protection from snow/mud spray.

Note that many flares require you to cut and modify your OEM inner flare, you use an aftermarket option (usually made of aluminum). Personally, unless it is a dedicated trail rig, or you lived and wheeled in the southwest desert, I would run inner fenders. The really do help keep a lot of gunk and road debris off sensitive areas.

View attachment 129911
View attachment 129912View attachment 129913


As someone with a lot of experience with snow and winter driving, I'll say that the tires that are good for snowy and ice covered roads are the worst ones for driving through deep snow and large drifts. The opposite is also the case. If your usage mostly entails on-road driving, a set of Blizzaks are hard to beat. If you're romping through deep snow and fields, a good set of M/T tires is hard to beat. Somewhere in the middle are A/T tires, most commonly the ones with 3-Peak Ratings. Like everything, there are compromises and trade offs.

Note that similar to tire differences and their best application, traction aids that are helpful in something like deep snow (e.g. a locker), are potentially problematic for on-road driving. If you plan to do both, you may want to consider a selectable locker (regardless of tire size). A LSD rear and selectable front are notoriously reliable and predictable for winter road and deep snow driving.

Amber bulbs are a preference for the most part. I had them for quite some time and they worked well enough, The most important factory in visibility for me was getting them as low as possible. Getting the highest angle of incidence is what helps prevent glare and the "light speed" effect of heavy snow. I used the yellow bulbs up top as more of a warning light system when parked or working through dark back roads where I didn't want to disturb people or animals.

Thanks for the pictures and info! That first picture is a ton of snow where i live in Montana its always high winds, so hard packed drifts are common and i don't think there is as much snow as you get. The town i work in does not plow the roads and my drive home from work is well after if any traffic hits my gravel road very often im blazing the trail and busting up drifts. so about 8 miles a day on pavement then 10 miles on gravel. Based on your info it makes me want to lean towards A/T tires, i think that would be a good compromise, as the roads and weather do what they do as they want and i don't have the money or time to have 2 sets and swap as needed. Again, a huge thanks and the last picture is just what as was thinking when i said aggressive looking, i love the front wheels showing off and open like that!

 

[Stuck_in_Snow]

First off, had you had a mechanic go over it to make sure that it's in good working order?

As far as bumpers go, as long as you're not doing anything gucci like dehorning your front end, front and back are both bolt on and should be 15 minute jobs at most.

Some JK bumpers are made to look aesthetic with the stock style fenders. Usually though it's just put on what you want. You don't really even need inner fenders, in my opinion.

How bad will the snow be? Having driven through blizzards before, I found a set of Falken Wildpeaks to be perfect. I also have a winch and recovery gear, though.

An amber bar should not be an issue to install at all.

Have not had a mechanic go over it, but it is certified preowned and clean Carfax and from what i believe to be a good dealership. As to how bad the Snow will be I'm unsure (google says annual snowfall is 6.5 inches), but wind-swept roads with hard packed drifts on my gravel road are common. I was looking at winches but there's not a tree within 10 miles of me sadly but will always have shovel and chains and recovery strap.

 

[pc1p]

Especially with the advent of traction control. Some feel it's a "nanny" but for typical winter driving paired with an LSD in the rear it does a great job of keeping the vehicle out of trouble. Easy to get sideways on a short wheelbase w/o the electronics.

100%!

I was actually very impressed with how well the TCS system works on squirrely roads, as well as the BLD going up my very icy driveway. As a dad to a somewhat new driver, it certainly added a bit of comfort in knowing that my daughter had some help should she get into a situation where her experience was short (I did take her to many open parking lots and have her blow some donuts just to get a feel for what the back end sliding out feels like).

Thanks for the pictures and info! That first picture is a ton of snow where i live in Montana its always high winds, so hard packed drifts are common and i don't think there is as much snow as you get. The town i work in does not plow the roads and my drive home from work is well after if any traffic hits my gravel road very often im blazing the trail and busting up drifts. so about 8 miles a day on pavement then 10 miles on gravel. Based on your info it makes me want to lean towards A/T tires, i think that would be a good compromise, as the roads and weather do what they do as they want and i don't have the money or time to have 2 sets and swap as needed. Again, a huge thanks and the last picture is just what as was thinking when i said aggressive looking, i love the front wheels showing off and open like that!

I think a good A/T would be right up your alley then. The KO3 is supposed to be a good winter option, though I've never used them before. My daughter has the KO2's and they're decent on snowy roads, but less than ideal on icy roads (I insist that she simply doesn't drive on days when ice is a problem). My favorite winter A/T tire is the Cooper Discoverer AT3 4S. My wife's 2017 GC Limited is AWD and goes everywhere with them on.

A funny incident above... we came home from something as the snow and ice were just starting to build up. The GC made it up the driveway without any issues - just some normal slipping where the BLD worked its magic. However, about a half hour later, my wife asks me "did you move my Jeep to the end of the driveway?". Of course, I had not - the Jeep just slid down the driveway! Just goes to show at how well these Coopers grip...

Unfortunately, these tires were recently discontinued. Cooper has replaced it with the Cooper Discoverer Road+Trail AT, which is supposed to offer increased performance but we haven't used them yet. If they're as good as the AT3 4S, then they're an excellent option.

 

[Lance Unibagger]

Have not had a mechanic go over it, but it is certified preowned and clean Carfax and from what i believe to be a good dealership. As to how bad the Snow will be I'm unsure (google says annual snowfall is 6.5 inches), but wind-swept roads with hard packed drifts on my gravel road are common. I was looking at winches but there's not a tree within 10 miles of me sadly but will always have shovel and chains and recovery strap.

Welcome friend, not questioning the depth of your pockets, however, I would recommend driving your new Jeep and taking it through some trials to determine if your new ride develops maintenance needs that could help guide you to the areas that need to be addressed.

Take it through a car wash to see if the roof leaks.
Go off road and use 4high/4low - disconnect the sway bar - lock the axles - hill descent control etc.

Overall, I think reliability and safety should be first on the list. As an example, I purchased a 2016 Rubicon JKU with 70k on it and the dealer had it certified with a full warranty for 3 months. After driving around, I noticed a vibration at 70-75 - still have not resolved that (road force balancing (100.00), I almost crashed due to bouncing that occurred on a highway I rarely travel (new shocks 400.00) steering stabilizer (115.00) alignment (130.00), after a light trail experience at altitude the radiator began to leak (350.00 with new thermostat).
I have put aside the funds for a new water pump, I didn't have the funds to do it at the time I replaced the radiator, and an oil filter/cooler assembly. I am fortunate to have a mechanical background so most costs are just for parts, but still hurt the old pocket book.

Best of luck with your new ride.

 

[Lance Unibagger]

100%!

I was actually very impressed with how well the TCS system works on squirrely roads, as well as the BLD going up my very icy driveway. As a dad to a somewhat new driver, it certainly added a bit of comfort in knowing that my daughter had some help should she get into a situation where her experience was short (I did take her to many open parking lots and have her blow some donuts just to get a feel for what the back end sliding out feels like).



I think a good A/T would be right up your alley then. The KO3 is supposed to be a good winter option, though I've never used them before. My daughter has the KO2's and they're decent on snowy roads, but less than ideal on icy roads (I insist that she simply doesn't drive on days when ice is a problem). My favorite winter A/T tire is the Cooper Discoverer AT3 4S. My wife's 2017 GC Limited is AWD and goes everywhere with them on.

View attachment 129914

A funny incident above... we came home from something as the snow and ice were just starting to build up. The GC made it up the driveway without any issues - just some normal slipping where the BLD worked its magic. However, about a half hour later, my wife asks me "did you move my Jeep to the end of the driveway?". Of course, I had not - the Jeep just slid down the driveway! Just goes to show at how well these Coopers grip...

Unfortunately, these tires were recently discontinued. Cooper has replaced it with the Cooper Discoverer Road+Trail AT, which is supposed to offer increased performance but we haven't used them yet. If they're as good as the AT3 4S, then they're an excellent option.

So fortunate that the Jeep stopped before entering the road - that could have been messy.

 

[tJKrider]

as the roads and weather do what they do as they want

That is the situation we face in SE Michigan every year. We could have 6" of fresh snow (could be light or heavy/wet), hard pack, ice, slush, or a combination. My favorite is when we get our typical temp swings. 3-4" of fresh snow, followed by above freezing temps, followed by another fresh snowfall. So we end up with a snow covered ice rink. I've had many different A/Ts - BFG K02, Duratrac, Falkens, Hankook, Bridgestone, Michelin, etc. They all perform decently in the varying conditions coupled with some added rear weight (pickup truck). The only time I had an extra set of wheels was for my SVT focus. Winter compound Michelin Artic Alpins (Similar to Blizzaks) made that darn near unstoppable in all but the heaviest snowfall!

 

[Grand Umpah]

Surprised that all the posts are about the external features and nothing about the internals. At 100K miles, spark plugs and PCV need to be replaced. Unless you got information about fluid maintenance, you should replace just about every fluid; radiator, differentials, brake, transfer case, MT oil (if MT), engine oil, and power steering. If the serpentine belt is original, consider replacing it.

 

[Cimmerian]

Surprised that all the posts are about the external features and nothing about the internals. At 100K miles, spark plugs and PCV need to be replaced. Unless you got information about fluid maintenance, you should replace just about every fluid; radiator, differentials, brake, transfer case, MT oil (if MT), engine oil, and power steering. If the serpentine belt is original, consider replacing it.

When I asked him if a mechanic went over it, that obviously included all of this.

 

[Stuck_in_Snow]

Welcome friend, not questioning the depth of your pockets, however, I would recommend driving your new Jeep and taking it through some trials to determine if your new ride develops maintenance needs that could help guide you to the areas that need to be addressed.

Take it through a car wash to see if the roof leaks.
Go off road and use 4high/4low - disconnect the sway bar - lock the axles - hill descent control etc.

Overall, I think reliability and safety should be first on the list. As an example, I purchased a 2016 Rubicon JKU with 70k on it and the dealer had it certified with a full warranty for 3 months. After driving around, I noticed a vibration at 70-75 - still have not resolved that (road force balancing (100.00), I almost crashed due to bouncing that occurred on a highway I rarely travel (new shocks 400.00) steering stabilizer (115.00) alignment (130.00), after a light trail experience at altitude the radiator began to leak (350.00 with new thermostat).
I have put aside the funds for a new water pump, I didn't have the funds to do it at the time I replaced the radiator, and an oil filter/cooler assembly. I am fortunate to have a mechanical background so most costs are just for parts, but still hurt the old pocket book.

Best of luck with your new ride.

Great advice. Im going to take your advice and instead of going for aftermarket looks cool I'm going to make sure it is reliable first. And go through a winter first. Tires only then fun stuff if nothing breaks.

 

[Stuck_in_Snow]

Surprised that all the posts are about the external features and nothing about the internals. At 100K miles, spark plugs and PCV need to be replaced. Unless you got information about fluid maintenance, you should replace just about every fluid; radiator, differentials, brake, transfer case, MT oil (if MT), engine oil, and power steering. If the serpentine belt is original, consider replacing it.

Thanks for bringing me back to reality. I need to be prepared for keeping it road ready and drivable and reliable before I worry about making it look cool.