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I plan to once I start the build. It will definitely take a good bit of fab work but I’m decent with a welder and clearance shouldnt be too big of an issue.

As long as your fluid looks good and you aren’t hearing any crazy noises I’d let it ride. Pulling the axles is easy but pulling the bearings suck so if you are concerned pull the shafts and look at them but unless you see something odd I wouldn’t mess with it.

I agree and since I can regear myself its small potatoes. I’m just wondering if someone else has done a 5.3 swap that might have more info or know someone who has. I’m just looking to price out the rest after I slam the new motor and trans in. Not regearing would be nice though for sure.

So I’m getting ready to install an L33 (aluminum 3rd gen 5.3 LS) into my jeep. I’m running 38” tires and aluminum beadlocks. I currently have 4.56 gears and Its underpowered currently but I’m wondering if anyone has any insight on what a decent ratio would be. The engines output at the crank is...

Yeah man if you had a problem it would be apparent. Your spider gears even look good. Mine looked like hell when I swapped in my locker. Make sure to clean off the housing and cover before you run new sealant on. Glad everything worked out.

Out of curiosity how much did the spidertrax axles set you back?

As long as you aren’t getting any gear whine or weird noises you should be fine til then. It sounds like you’ll be just fine but knowing for sure is definitely comforting.

Yeah spidertrax or the Miller motorsports axles that use spidertrax parts are what I’m looking at going with.

Sweet. I do my own gears so shoot me some pics if you want a second opinion on what they look like.

A limited slip should act just like that but I’d pull the cover and check anyway if you know there was damage in the past.

I regeared my D30 knowing I was gonna eventually swap to a 44. If you don’t invest anything else in it it isn’t too bad. Then you can build the rear exactly how you want and just leave it. The added gearing and rear locker made a world of difference before I made the move to upgrade to the 44 front.

I plan on swapping the chromos I’ve got up front to RCV’s if I stick with the axles I’ve got. The rear has chromo 35 spline shafts. I’m just concerned with the sticky compound of the Red labels breaking things more than the weight of the tires.

So I want to run sticky’s on the JK. I’ve got 2 different options so far going forward. I don’t want to throw a set of junkyard 1 tons under there if I can avoid it, even though it is obviously the cheapest route. Option 1: Id like to run a set of Ford 9” front and rear which will definitely be...

So I found the solution to my issue. After cranking back up I got an associated P0300 as well as my P0016. I sucked in a bunch of water through the rear main seal into the crankcase when I went out to windrock. The seal holds oil in but doesn't prevent fluids from entering. The rubber water dam...

Does it idle rough or do you just have the code? Did you ever change the position sensor?

Mine just kicked the same code. Running a little rough as well.

Looks good brother! I dig the 2 tone wheels

No definitely need to regear as well. The jeep will be completely gutless without regearing.

The reason I'd caution a 15" wheel is not only fitment now but when the vehicle gets heavier and you want to upgrade your brakes you really cant do much because of lack of room. I'm going back to a 17" wheel for that exact reason. I want to run 37"s but I'll need bigger brakes to still be safe...

Aluminum