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On a side note how do you guys like the oil change tool I made? I put it together when I was in school for welding. Big socket for the filter and a small one for the drain plug.

I found that one of the seats of my driver side CV joint is chipped. The whole axle on the inside has a lot of movement. I assume that could probably cause some vibrations. Here's what the stabilizer looks like. It still moves both ways but in it's condition probably does nothing. Maybe it's...

I'll try and see. As of right now; if I release the accelerator when I feel the wobble start, it goes away. If not I'll have to slow right down from 60 to 30-40 mph.

I have to do an oil change tomorrow so I'll jack it up off the ground and check. But the stabilizer is pretty bent lol.

Experienced death wobble for the first time... Probably due to that steering stabilizer I banged up last fall. It only happens after I hit a bump at highway speeds.

I've never hear anyone having this issue with any kind of vehicle... What kind of bird makes a nest right out in the open so close to the ground?

I've never seen a battery blow up but I saw someone melt a post off a battery trying to jump start a truck with a camper battery.

Oh you'd be surprised at what passes for welding around here. This area lacks quality standards when it comes to welding. My main reasoning for setting up a dual battery system is that I got a new battery a while back thinking my battery was the cause of my electrical problems but it wasn't...

Not exactly. I had all the warning lights come on but also mine would get stuck on whatever gear I was on and the cooling fan would go full speed. The tech said that the transmission was going into limp mode.

Yeah that sounds like a better idea than a full size battery.

Well that makes sense. This thing must have come from a lawn tractor or something lol. I've seen videos of people welding like that. I'm a welder myself but haven't tried that... Yet. I suppose I could just carry the other battery with me to jump start the Jeep with jumper cables if needed.

Would this solenoid be able to handle being the bridge between two batteries in a simple DIY dual battery system? I found it in a pile of junk at work, it looks new. I found it online and it's 35 amps continuous service. https://greggdistributors.ca/electrical/Solenoids/col24420 Also...

They cleaned the connector and bypassed the affected pins by splicing the wires on both sides of it together. I almost feel like bypassing every wiring harness on the jeep in that way lol.

I got mine back from the dealership a couple days ago and it's been working fine. Here's the location of the connector that was causing problems for me.there was some corrosion shooting some of the pins together. Honestly there are many connectors on the vehicle that could cause this problem.

Here's some more info for you all about this (and maybe more) issue. I sent my Jeep to another dealership. This place was highly recommended over the other one I went to. The tech traced a short circuit to a connector near the passenger side headlight. Apparently there was that green corrosion...

My Jeep is currently at the dealership again for a similar issue. The tech thinks he traced the issue to a corroded CAN bus body connector located below the headlights. I'm just waiting to go pick it up to test it myself. I tried unplugging all my added electronics, new battery terminals, new...

Nope nothing looks like it got wet. The ribbon wire is greased. Maybe the cold made the grease solidify.

Lol so I took apart my clockspring. She's a mangled unit. Anyone ever see one do this? here's the other side. that wheel with the gear teeth and those little sticks make up the steering wheel position sensor. I think it uses an optical sensor of some sort. Probably like an optical computer mouse?

Here's what a WCM looks like on the inside in case anyone wants to see. Looks like it's in mint condition. I know my clockspring is damaged so I ordered a new one. If the problem keeps going I'll just have to get a new WCM. I think JScan can program replacement WCMs, I guess we'll see.

Normally when you disable all that stuff it makes the lights turn on. The computer sees it as an error so it illuminates the warning light. If you hit the accelerator does it peel out? If you have no traction control it should peel rubber pretty easy.