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First off, WOW! Glad to hear you, the wife and pups came away relatively uninjured. As for the Jeep. If you're intent was to trailer/tow the JK and use it as a primary Exploration/Offroad rig. I might suggest straightening the frame and replacing the necessities. But if you plan to put miles on...

Just as an FYI, some of my findings after I bought my used JKUR. - Worn Ball Joints - Worn Upper Control Arm Bushings - Destroyed Lower Control Arm Bushings - Worn Track Bar Heim Joint All of these required me to remove and inspect them. I couldn't get them to budge under weight. So it took me...

Might have made more sense if I said where. Rubicon. Didn’t run the whole way, just an in-n-out trip.

Just a quick trip in and back out. Then off to Tahoe and HWY88.

If you are able to reset with the ignition I would go @BLACKJKU 's route. Check the electrical, small steps. Check conductivity, swap relays, run direct power. If the fan never triggers due to heat (but does run) I would suspect a bad temp sensor.

Welcome. Clean rig and good find.

Doing a bolt check before my next run and found this little guy. Transmission cross member. Looks to be a bad weld. Not a lot is of rust so likely just happened the last couple trips. Ground out and welded. Bolt check done as well. Mark those bolts! Makes it obvious when things are moving...

Potentially damaged the locker? Jack it up and spin the wheels. I agree the pinion bearings should not effect steering.

I gave up on Hi-lift (farmers jack) couple years ago. Dangerous, precarious (even in a flat garage), heavy and cumbersome. And they can’t max out a lifted JK suspension, so what’s the point? I use a HF 8ton bottle jack with an extension seat for axels and 2x8s for a base. Used it in the garage...

Keep us in mind. Sports are finished up and school is near done. We been keeping our eyes open for spots that have opened up and not overly busy.

Been using the NEWAIR 48qt for the last year plus. Camping trips, family trips, day trips. I have it wired directly to the car battery. I did upgrade the wiring to the ARB 12V plug kit, better gauge and longer than the supplied. Have not had any draw downs that killed the vehicle. Longest left...

With a 4” Synergy lift and extended lines. Side note, I have limit straps as well to save the lines.

Rear track bar bushings replaced. Case of bad engineering and luck. Had to cut the bolt out. Other solutions involved going to a shop to drop out the rear axle coils. At a $180hr, saws-all for the win.

Welcome... Joined the group last year hoping for the same. Never got much traction here in the JK forums. There is a Nor-Cal specific trail thread on the sister TJ forum. NorCal Jeep Adventures Its been a bit slow due to sheer amount of snow/weather. Being on spring break next week I was hoping...

Possible. But that sounds metal on metal. Had a similar sound just after doing new pads rotors on the rear. My culpret ended up being the Pad Clips that came with the PowerStop pads. Cheep and thin. I ordered some new ones that had rubber coating on one side. Also coated all the interacting...

Just installed the Wolfbox last night. Must say, smoother than expected. I ordered the refurbished unit which did not come with the hardwired kit but I will be ordering that separately. Mounted the rear camera on the relocated license plate (swing arm, center tire). Came out with a spare 1/2"...

Never had it personally but I’ve heard a few people mention that it’s possible the insulation on the hood to get sucked into the intake and starve out the motor. By chance have loose insulation around the intake? Remember to look at the underside of the hood.

I don't have a solution but in a similar conundrum. Been chasing a flighty steering wheel for a bit. I've personally replaced most the joints and bushings to no avail. Now its down to the actual steering box or my stabilizer being dead. Gonna pull the stabilizer this weekend and drive without it...

Welcome to world of “Death Wobble”. There is a nice long list of things that can cause this on the front end. - worn ball joints - worn bushings - loose hardware - worn hub bearings Best to just get the front end up in the air and get some help moving the steering around a bit. Grab, shake...

That is a large drive-to-passenger side difference. Likely the cause of the drifting. Possible it has damage but possible error on the shop as well. Looks like they didn't even attempt to adjust the Caster? Your kit comes with adjustable upper and lower CAs, no excuses the casters shouldn't be...