Where do I find these bolts?

longlivenintendo

longlivenintendo

JK Enthusiast
Joined
Dec 20, 2022
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new york
Hey yall. Began my transmission fluid work today and broke one of the bolts on the cross member. Attempting to get her out now. But where oh where do we all get these bolts?! They are not common clearly. Got the other two out fine albeit I used more heat and went in and out more and eased them out better. And another question would it be bad to drive without the cross member for line a day?

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I go to Ace when looking for special bolts. That is just a cheap skid / cross member.
 
longlivenintendo said:
Grade 8? Whats that?
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https://norwoodscrewmachine.com/blog/bolt-grades-know/

What does a Bolt Grade Mean?​


This is the most basic question for someone who is not familiar with this term. This is a technical term which determines the properties of a bolt. The grade of a bolt determines the maximum amount of stress that the bolt can handle. It also helps determine which tools are suitable for tightening these bolts. Moreover, the type of method used for tightening the bolt is also dependent upon the grade of the bolt. Therefore, it is very important to understand the grade of a bolt in order to use it properly.


What are the Different Bolt Grades?​


There are a huge variety of bolt grades that are suitable for a diverse range of applications and environments. Let us have a look at each grade and its properties:


  1. Grade 2 – The grade 2 bolts are most commonly manufactured from low or medium carbon steel. Bolts of this grade do not have any radial lines. The bolts of this grade with a nominal size range from 1/4″ to 3/4″ have a minimum tensile strength of about 57000 psi and the yield strength of sizes from 3/4″ to 1/2″ 36000 psi.
  2. Grade 5 – Unlike grade 2 bolts, grade 5 bolts feature 5 radial lines. These bolts are manufactured from medium carbon steel. These bolts come in two different size ranges – 1/4″ to 1″ and 1″ to 1 1/2″, which have the proof load of 85000 psi and 74000 psi respectively.
  3. Grade 8 – Grade 8 bolts are made from medium carbon alloy steel. The bolts of this grade feature 6 radial lines. The nominal size of the grade 8 bolts can be from 1/4″ to 1 1/2″. The minimum yield strength of this grade bolt is 130,000 psi. A maximum of 120,000 psi of tensile force (proof load) can be applied to grade 8 bolts.
  4. Grade S – Grade S bolts have the capability to withstand 45 to 49.9 MT of stress per 6.45 cm3. Bolts of this grade are heavy duty bolts that are strong and highly durable, and thus are used in a variety of heavy duty applications.
The bolt will have 6 lines on the head:

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BLACKJKU said:
Most Hardware Stores should have them, do you have a Fastenal Store close by?
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Fastenal sells to regular people by you? The one in my town will only work with businesses. Walk in and they ask "Contract number?" and then shoo you out when you don't have one.

Our Auto Value has a really good bolt collection though.
 
MacGuyver said:
Fastenal sells to regular people by you? The one in my town will only work with businesses. Walk in and they ask "Contract number?" and then shoo you out when you don't have one.

Our Auto Value has a really good bolt collection though.
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??
Fastenal is a retail chain that specializes in providing large quantities to contractors, but that doesn't mean they won't sell to us schmucks. It's been a few years since I was in a Fastenal, and maybe they've changed their business model. If they did, fug 'em.
 
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She still ain't budging. I'm really deep with my lefty bit and that easy out is good in there too. Gonna try to get her hotter. I see no other way. Do you guys ever try heating the nut more than the bolt? Or just heating the stud?

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MacGuyver said:
Fastenal sells to regular people by you? The one in my town will only work with businesses. Walk in and they ask "Contract number?" and then shoo you out when you don't have one.

Our Auto Value has a really good bolt collection though.
Click to expand...

I've walked in a few times and bought things and I don't have a Business Account at Fastenal.
 
longlivenintendo said:
She still ain't budging. I'm really deep with my lefty bit and that easy out is good in there too. Gonna try to get her hotter. I see no other way. Do you guys ever try heating the nut more than the bolt? Or just heating the stud?
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You're going to heat everything. You can also try cooling it really fast after you heat it up. The idea is that the heating and cooling causes the metal to expand and contract, breaking the rust loose.

Bladesmiths generally heat the quench before we dunk the blade. Because a cold quench can shatter a thick blade. Doing the same rapid hot/cold cycle with your bolt has a really good chance of breaking the rust weld.
 
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longlivenintendo said:
She still ain't budging. I'm really deep with my lefty bit and that easy out is good in there too. Gonna try to get her hotter. I see no other way. Do you guys ever try heating the nut more than the bolt? Or just heating the stud?

View attachment 124214
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I always heated the nuts whenever possible, most of the time you have to get it cherry red for the bolt to come out.
 
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Dirty Dog said:
You're going to heat everything. You can also try cooling it really fast after you heat it up. The idea is that the heating and cooling causes the metal to expand and contract, breaking the rust loose.

Bladesmiths generally heat the quench before we dunk the blade. Because a cold quench can shatter a thick blade. Doing the same rapid hot/cold cycle with your bolt has a really good chance of breaking the rust weld.
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How would you suggest cooling it? Spray bottle? Hose? Spit? Haha
 
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longlivenintendo said:
How would you suggest cooling it? Spray bottle? Hose? Spit? Haha
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The largest temperature change in the shortest time will yield the best results. So in an ideal world, you'd get it cherry red and then dunk it in ice water. That's not terribly practical when you're crawling under a vehicle. A hose works, but it's a bit messy. I tend to use a bucket full of ice water and some old rags.
 
If you have room I’d consider a quality pair of vice grips really tight on the non-threaded portion. It might give a little more leverage to twist it, plus it won’t break off the easy out.
 
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