JScan App

[Danarch]

I hooked up the Jscan app, overall it went fairly smooth but have a few questions (couldn’t find info elsewhere);

1. Is there option to show oil pressure? I didn’t see it.
2. Running iOS, looks like you physically have to exit the app for the Bluetooth to disconnect? I suppose once you got far enough away it would disconnect but staying connected seems like it would drain the battery.
3. My selected options disappeared each time I left the live screen, is that correct?
4. it appears the only way to contact them is through FaceBook? Yes I deactivated my account a few years ago.

Thank you!

 

[Anybodyhome]

I can't answer all of your questions, but here goes:
1. There is no oil pressure PID.
2. Yes, and that applies to both Android an iOS. The app will use your phone battery- it's a drainer.
3. Yes, you have to reload PIDs each time.
4. I have not needed to contact them and I don't do social media, so I guess I'm screwed?

 

[Danarch]

Thanks for the Information. Seems odd that the oil pressure isn’t an option, especially since I can flip through the options on the dash information center so there information is there. I don’t do a lot of social media, have instagram to check in on the kiddos .

 

[JerryD]

Honestly, I haven't checked for oil pressure. I was able to get trans temp in Torque Pro a few years ago, but I had enable unsupported features. Wonder if it's similar in JScan?

Yeah, I think they only do support through FB.

 

[Danarch]

Thank you Jerry.

 

[IndominusHuman]

Thank you Jerry.

You dont have the oil pressure in the menu of your Jeep dash? I have it on my Recon and I would think your HR would have it too.

 

[Danarch]

You dont have the oil pressure in the menu of your Jeep dash? I have it on my Recon and I would think your HR would have it too.

I do have one, which is why I thought it odd it wasn’t an option on the Jscan app. I have a ultra-gauge I used in my previous car, bit no oil pressure option. One reason I bought Jscan was thinking it would include oil pressure, of course major reason is for programming and Jeep specific codes.

Different topic. I assume your Recon is very similar to the HR. Do you know your coolant temp? I noticed this weekend traveling at hwy speeds and downshifting at inclines the temp would climb up to 230ish. It seemed to come down pretty fast when I would upshift. While 4 wheeling it was fine. When we were done for the day and and aired back up and got on the road it went to 239, but I would say within 1 minute it dropped back down to 220ish. My 4.2 YJ seemed to stay at 212, at least I think that is what was on the gauge, been a long time. Of course back in 87 I didn’t have a device connected too the OBII port. If I didn’t have the ultra-gauge I wouldn’t have know it fluctuated that much as the needle only moved north of straight up when it hit 239. I did check the the temperature from the dash display and it was within 1 degree of the untra-gauge. It still was below the 3rd mark. Just seemed odd to me. Sorry if this shows twice thought I posted it, but then couldn’t find my reponse.

Thank you!

 

[BLACKJKU]

I do have one, which is why I thought it odd it wasn’t an option on the Jscan app. I have a ultra-gauge I used in my previous car, bit no oil pressure option. One reason I bought Jscan was thinking it would include oil pressure, of course major reason is for programming and Jeep specific codes.

Different topic. I assume your Recon is very similar to the HR. Do you know your coolant temp? I noticed this weekend traveling at hwy speeds and downshifting at inclines the temp would climb up to 230ish. It seemed to come down pretty fast when I would upshift. While 4 wheeling it was fine. When we were done for the day and and aired back up and got on the road it went to 239, but I would say within 1 minute it dropped back down to 220ish. My 4.2 YJ seemed to stay at 212, at least I think that is what was on the gauge, been a long time. Of course back in 87 I didn’t have a device connected too the OBII port. If I didn’t have the ultra-gauge I wouldn’t have know it fluctuated that much as the needle only moved north of straight up when it hit 239. I did check the the temperature from the dash display and it was within 1 degree of the untra-gauge. It still was below the 3rd mark. Just seemed odd to me. Sorry if this shows twice thought I posted it, but then couldn’t find my reponse.

Thank you!

Are you wanting a gauge or display to monitor your oil pressure?

 

[Anybodyhome]

Different topic. I assume your Recon is very similar to the HR. Do you know your coolant temp? I noticed this weekend traveling at hwy speeds and downshifting at inclines the temp would climb up to 230ish. It seemed to come down pretty fast when I would upshift. While 4 wheeling it was fine. When we were done for the day and and aired back up and got on the road it went to 239, but I would say within 1 minute it dropped back down to 220ish. My 4.2 YJ seemed to stay at 212, at least I think that is what was on the gauge, been a long time. Of course back in 87 I didn’t have a device connected too the OBII port. If I didn’t have the ultra-gauge I wouldn’t have know it fluctuated that much as the needle only moved north of straight up when it hit 239. I did check the the temperature from the dash display and it was within 1 degree of the untra-gauge. It still was below the 3rd mark. Just seemed odd to me. Sorry if this shows twice thought I posted it, but then couldn’t find my reponse.

I had a thermostat issue a couple months back which kept throwing a P0128 code, which I documented quite extensively in my thread.
After I completed the install of the new t-stat, my temps were all over the place and my gauge was showing it as well as the Jscan. What I determined was an air gap in the coolant system. So, with the engine cool, I removed the radiator cap and added coolant directly using a funnel. This forces any air back up to the cap and "burps" the air out of the cycle. It's a slow process, adding coolant less than a cup at a time and it reaches the top of the radiator, burps, then settles down... repeat.
Once I got thru that, my coolant temp settled into a fairly consistent 218-225 range.

 

[Danarch]

Are you wanting a gauge or display to monitor your oil pressure?

I am not wanting a gauge. I had “assumed” the Jscan app would include a PID for the oil pressure since it is available via the information system on the dash. Thank you.

 

[Danarch]

I had a thermostat issue a couple months back which kept throwing a P0128 code, which I documented quite extensively in my thread.
After I completed the install of the new t-stat, my temps were all over the place and my gauge was showing it as well as the Jscan. What I determined was an air gap in the coolant system. So, with the engine cool, I removed the radiator cap and added coolant directly using a funnel. This forces any air back up to the cap and "burps" the air out of the cycle. It's a slow process, adding coolant less than a cup at a time and it reaches the top of the radiator, burps, then settles down... repeat.
Once I got thru that, my coolant temp settled into a fairly consistent 218-225 range.

Thank you, my temps usually are within that range or lower. It was just with higher elevation, I am estimating 5-6000 feet, inclines it rose closer to 230ish. Only one time did it hit 239 which was right when we got back on the main road, but dropped right away. It had climbed while in 3rd gear up an incline. The entire time while 4 wheeling I don’t think it ever exceeded 215 or so.

 

[IndominusHuman]

I do have one, which is why I thought it odd it wasn’t an option on the Jscan app. I have a ultra-gauge I used in my previous car, bit no oil pressure option. One reason I bought Jscan was thinking it would include oil pressure, of course major reason is for programming and Jeep specific codes.

Different topic. I assume your Recon is very similar to the HR. Do you know your coolant temp? I noticed this weekend traveling at hwy speeds and downshifting at inclines the temp would climb up to 230ish. It seemed to come down pretty fast when I would upshift. While 4 wheeling it was fine. When we were done for the day and and aired back up and got on the road it went to 239, but I would say within 1 minute it dropped back down to 220ish. My 4.2 YJ seemed to stay at 212, at least I think that is what was on the gauge, been a long time. Of course back in 87 I didn’t have a device connected too the OBII port. If I didn’t have the ultra-gauge I wouldn’t have know it fluctuated that much as the needle only moved north of straight up when it hit 239. I did check the the temperature from the dash display and it was within 1 degree of the untra-gauge. It still was below the 3rd mark. Just seemed odd to me. Sorry if this shows twice thought I posted it, but then couldn’t find my reponse.

Thank you!

On the highway my coolant temp is at 203. When off-roading I will see it get up to 212 sometimes, but typically it does stay around that 203 mark. I would, similar to what @Anybodyhome had issues with, you may have air in the system. Your temps shouldn't be fluctuating that much.

The highest my jeep has ever gotten was doing hard rock crawling in the middle of the summer (if i remember correctly it was close to 110 that day) and it got up to 218ish.

 

[Danarch]

On the highway my coolant temp is at 203. When off-roading I will see it get up to 212 sometimes, but typically it does stay around that 203 mark. I would, similar to what @Anybodyhome had issues with, you may have air in the system. Your temps shouldn't be fluctuating that much.

The highest my jeep has ever gotten was doing hard rock crawling in the middle of the summer (if i remember correctly it was close to 110 that day) and it got up to 218ish.

Thanks for the information. I’ve been trying to keep an eye on it. It seems like it happens more when in a lower gear and trying to keep up speed on a incline. Four wheeling all day was fine. Not to mention all the articles about the two different kinds of coolant, makes one nervous about adding more. What happened to the days 50/50 antifreeze and water? And not thinking about air pockets in the system.

 

[IndominusHuman]

Thanks for the information. I’ve been trying to keep an eye on it. It seems like it happens more when in a lower gear and trying to keep up speed on a incline. Four wheeling all day was fine. Not to mention all the articles about the two different kinds of coolant, makes one nervous about adding more. What happened to the days 50/50 antifreeze and water? And not thinking about air pockets in the system.

May be worth it to do a complete flush? I will do one at 100k miles just because.

Here is a link to the correct Mopar Coolant Concentrate. I would get the concentrate because if not, your paying a lot for water. Just make sure to use distilled water when mixing.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017DP433O/?tag=jkforum-20

 

[Danarch]

May be worth it to do a complete flush? I will do one at 100k miles just because.

Here is a link to the correct Mopar Coolant Concentrate. I would get the concentrate because if not, your paying a lot for water. Just make sure to use distilled water when mixing.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017DP433O/?tag=jkforum-20

I may take a look at this, the Jeep only has 18,000 miles on it. I removed the cap last night and the coolant level in the radiator is full, it was at the base of the pressure cap. The fluid looks orange, but I’ll try Chris‘s trick of putting some in a glass and see what color it is. The overflow reservoir also looks orange. I can’t tell where the fill line is for the reservoir, but coolant is over halfway up so seems about right based on experience with other cars. So if I do drain it, do you flush the system with water to make sure all the old coolant is out everywhere, like the heater core etc? In other cars I just drained the system and then filled up again, but with a chance of mixing wrong fluids I want to make sure all the old is out.

 

[Danarch]

I had a thermostat issue a couple months back which kept throwing a P0128 code, which I documented quite extensively in my thread.
After I completed the install of the new t-stat, my temps were all over the place and my gauge was showing it as well as the Jscan. What I determined was an air gap in the coolant system. So, with the engine cool, I removed the radiator cap and added coolant directly using a funnel. This forces any air back up to the cap and "burps" the air out of the cycle. It's a slow process, adding coolant less than a cup at a time and it reaches the top of the radiator, burps, then settles down... repeat.
Once I got thru that, my coolant temp settled into a fairly consistent 218-225 range.

I was wondering when you did this process I assume the coolant was not at the level of the cap? I removed my cap last night and the fluid was all the way to the top in the radiator to the point it was touching the cap. I’ve never got a code and somewhat think I may be overly concerned as if it was for the digital OBDII display I have I wouldn’t be thinking about as the gauge in the dash really doesn’t move. One time it moved just barely right of center.

 

[Anybodyhome]

So, your coolant reservoir has 2 lines on it- where the coolant level should be when the engine is hot and when it is cold. This is your first check- to ensure that level is where it's supposed to be.
Once I did that and still saw the gauge bouncing all over the place and Jscan telling me the temps were moving like the gauge, I let the engine cool and popped the radiator cap. The coolant was not at the cap level, so I used a small funnel and added about a cup at a time, watched it carefully because I didn't want it to overflow the radiator. It would settle and fill to the cap, then it would burp as the air bubbles were forced up and out thru the cap.
It really didn't take much to enough coolant into the radiator until there was no more settling and the radiator was full. Once I got to that point, I drove it and watched Jscan and my gauge and they remained steady. Good to go.

 

[Danarch]

So, your coolant reservoir has 2 lines on it- where the coolant level should be when the engine is hot and when it is cold. This is your first check- to ensure that level is where it's supposed to be.
Once I did that and still saw the gauge bouncing all over the place and Jscan telling me the temps were moving like the gauge, I let the engine cool and popped the radiator cap. The coolant was not at the cap level, so I used a small funnel and added about a cup at a time, watched it carefully because I didn't want it to overflow the radiator. It would settle and fill to the cap, then it would burp as the air bubbles were forced up and out thru the cap.
It really didn't take much to enough coolant into the radiator until there was no more settling and the radiator was full. Once I got to that point, I drove it and watched Jscan and my gauge and they remained steady. Good to go.

Thank you, I tied to look for the lines and couldn’t see any on the Reservoir, even used a flashlight. I’ll do some hunting on the web to see if there is an image of it, its buried in there. I’ll check the manual too. It’s only really been an issue at higher RMP around 4,000 at inclines. Other then that they are usually consistent with a max of 225.

 

[Anybodyhome]

The lines on the reservoir are not easy to see. You have to stand on the driver's side and peer under the upper radiator hose to see them. I might suggest getting a dirty or oily rag and rubbing it over that side of the reservoir so the embossed line will show up.
Or, you can feel them with your fingers.
A flashlight will help as well.

 

[IndominusHuman]

Hmmmm...honestly...with it only having 18k on it, this shouldn't be happening. If i was in your shoes I would take it to the dealer and make them figure it out (as long as you are under warranty still. I think its 6 years? maybe its 5?).